My 2nd Starcraft rebuild, 1976 SuperSport , I'm back

[chrisp929]

have been away. Since the summer of 2011 basically. Bought a house, sold my Jetstar in 2012 only a month after I bought the house. To this day I have no idea why. I think I assumed I would be overwhelmed with the house and some work it required, so I decided it was best to sell it.
I love the water and boating, and always had Startcrafts in my mind. I don't know why I like Starcrafts over so many other boats, but I do.
I put a wanted to buy ad up on Clist in late November of 2019. A gentleman replied about 2 hours away saying he had a SuperSport for $850. I bought it and drove it home in early January of 2020. Imagine me, towing a boat on the highway in Upstate NY in Mid December!

I plan on keeping this one for ever. As such, I will be taking the time to make it real nice. I'm 42, and plan on retiring with 33 years in my company, ten years from now. This will be a large part of my retirement. Putting the boat out on the water, sitting back, cold drink, few poles, and relaxing, letting the waves put me to sleep.

I took some paid leave off from work and so I'll be focusing on another boat rebuild. I plan to keep the boat as original as possible with some minor upgrades which will be mainly cosmetic in nature. Because this will be a long term keeper, I'm lookin for dead nuts reliability and little to no breakdowns for a long time.

I took the old 1966 Evinrude Super Seahorse 'Electramatic' off the boat that weekend, wondering If I was going to keep it or sell it. Well I decided to sell it as it needed at minimum a starter rebuild kit, and maybe a new starter, as well as a few other things and I wasn't interested in putting in all the work to maybe get something running or not and wondering how reliable it would be while out in the middle of the water somewhere. So I sold it for $200 on Craigslist. And due to its age, it took a WHILE. I'll be replacing it with a new 60-70 HP outboard. I was leaning heavily towards another brand new Evinrude Etec, but since we all know that BRP will no longer be making outboards, I'm leaning towards Suzuki or Yamaha. A Suzuki dealer is 10-15 min from me, and a reputable Yamaha gold star dealer is 20 min from me.

I'll include some pics and some questions I have, if you all would kindly start me off on a good foot!

I just wanna say, I never forgot iboats in the 9 years I was gone, I did occasionally pop in to see what was new. Little changed, and the people are still pretty awesome.

Questions.
1. On my previous build, everyone here was recommending or using. West Systems Epoxy for transoms and floors. Remarkably, I still have some left over at dads house where I rebuilt my Jetstar. Being 9 years old, I won't try reusing it. So, I see MANY cheaper options available. a 1 gallon kit of West systems is like $152. what is the NEW recommended epoxy kit in gallon size that is maybe cheaper than West Systems? For example, I see Fasco ( maker of Gluvits alternative ) makes a 1 gallon kit for $51.99. How do cheaper epoxy kits compare? Do I have a cheaper alternative to West Systems?

2. On my previous build, all ********** members were using Gluvit to seal their leaky hulls. Thankfully my hull is in great shape, but as a preventative measure, is there a new alternative which iboats.com members are using now? For example, I found Fascos Steelflex product online which only costs $34 for a quart, but I'm skeptical that it flows as well as Gluvit.

3. is the roll and tip method still in favor for those which prefer not to spray? I remember this was a fairly new process here at iboats when I first joined back in 2010. I saw some real nice results on YouTube with rolling and tipping and I think this will be my method of painting.

Thanks all. I'll be here for the duration. Please bear with my questions. I have already gone back and read my other thread on my Jetstar build just to re-familiarize myself with how I rebuilt my last Starcraft. I hope to keep the questions to a minimum.

Enjoy my build.
I have been away. Since the summer of 2011 basically. Bought a house, sold my Jetstar in 2012 only a month after I bought the house. To this day I have no idea why. I think I assumed I would be overwhelmed with the house and some work it required, so I decided it was best to sell it.
I love the water and boating, and always had Startcrafts in my mind. I don't know why I like Starcrafts over so many other boats, but I do.
I put a wanted to buy ad up on Clist in late November of 2019. A gentleman replied about 2 hours away saying he had a SuperSport for $850. I bought it and drove it home in early January of 2020. Imagine me, towing a boat on the highway in Upstate NY in Mid December!

I plan on keeping this one for ever. As such, I will be taking the time to make it real nice. I'm 42, and plan on retiring with 33 years in my company, ten years from now. This will be a large part of my retirement. Putting the boat out on the water, sitting back, cold drink, few poles, and relaxing, letting the waves put me to sleep.

I took some paid leave off from work and so I'll be focusing on another boat rebuild. I plan to keep the boat as original as possible with some minor upgrades which will be mainly cosmetic in nature. Because this will be a long term keeper, I'm lookin for dead nuts reliability and little to no breakdowns for a long time.

I took the old 1966 Evinrude Super Seahorse 'Electramatic' off the boat that weekend, wondering If I was going to keep it or sell it. Well I decided to sell it as it needed at minimum a starter rebuild kit, and maybe a new starter, as well as a few other things and I wasn't interested in putting in all the work to maybe get something running or not and wondering how reliable it would be while out in the middle of the water somewhere. So I sold it for $200 on Craigslist. And due to its age, it took a WHILE. I'll be replacing it with a new 60-70 HP outboard. I was leaning heavily towards another brand new Evinrude Etec, but since we all know that BRP will no longer be making outboards, I'm leaning towards Suzuki or Yamaha. A Suzuki dealer is 10-15 min from me, and a reputable Yamaha gold star dealer is 20 min from me.

I'll include some pics and some questions I have, if you all would kindly start me off on a good foot!

I just wanna say, I never forgot iboats in the 9 years I was gone, I did occasionally pop in to see what was new. Little changed, and the people are still pretty awesome.

Questions.
1. On my previous build, everyone here was recommending or using. West Systems Epoxy for transoms and floors. Remarkably, I still have some left over at dads house where I rebuilt my Jetstar. Being 9 years old, I won't try reusing it. So, I see MANY cheaper options available. a 1 gallon kit of West systems is like $152. what is the NEW recommended epoxy kit in gallon size that is maybe cheaper than West Systems? For example, I see Fasco ( maker of Gluvits alternative ) makes a 1 gallon kit for $51.99. How do cheaper epoxy kits compare? Do I have a cheaper alternative to West Systems?

2. On my previous build, all ********** members were using Gluvit to seal their leaky hulls. Thankfully my hull is in great shape, but as a preventative measure, is there a new alternative which iboats.com members are using now? For example, I found Fascos Steelflex product online which only costs $34 for a quart, but I'm skeptical that it flows as well as Gluvit.

3. is the roll and tip method still in favor for those which prefer not to spray? I remember this was a fairly new process here at iboats when I first joined back in 2010. I saw some real nice results on YouTube with rolling and tipping and I think this will be my method of painting.

Thanks all. I'll be here for the duration. Please bear with my questions. I have already gone back and read my other thread on my Jetstar build just to re-familiarize myself with how I rebuilt my last Starcraft. I hope to keep the questions to a minimum.

Enjoy my build.

Stand by for pics guys ... still getting used to the image sharing format here !

 

[chrisp929]

[No message]

 

[chrisp929]

[No message]

 

[classiccat]

1. On my previous build, everyone here was recommending or using. West Systems Epoxy for transoms and floors. Remarkably, I still have some left over at dads house where I rebuilt my Jetstar. Being 9 years old, I won't try reusing it. So, I see MANY cheaper options available. a 1 gallon kit of West systems is like $152. what is the NEW recommended epoxy kit in gallon size that is maybe cheaper than West Systems? For example, I see Fasco ( maker of Gluvits alternative ) makes a 1 gallon kit for $51.99. How do cheaper epoxy kits compare? Do I have a cheaper alternative to West Systems?

You can reuse that West Systems. I had some old stuff where the resin was recrystallized; if i recall, I simply heated it up in some warm water and it was as good as new.

I've since started using US Composites (3:1) for all of my epoxy, fiberglass and filler needs.

Now you said that you want to do it right. I recommend NOT using epoxy on plywood without glass cloth (even better if you use epoxy plugs for all fasteners so that PLY edges are always protected.) download the free pdf in this link: Gougeon Brothers.

"Although we do not always use fiberglass cloth on highquality, marine-grade plywood, an exterior layer of cloth is necessary for finishing soft or rotary-peeled plywood. For boats planked with soft woods like Western red cedar, a layer of fiberglass provides a tougher, more abrasion and impact resistant surface. Fiberglass can Chapter 13 – Synthetic Fibers and WEST SYSTEM® Epoxy 121 make Douglas fir ply much easier to work and more reliable over time. Cloth sheathing will also prevent the surface checking which is so common with fir plywood."

If you're not going to use cloth, maybe consider Spar varnish or better yet, the famous Old Timers Formula.

2. On my previous build, all ********** members were using Gluvit to seal their leaky hulls. Thankfully my hull is in great shape, but as a preventative measure, is there a new alternative which iboats.com members are using now? For example, I found Fascos Steelflex product online which only costs $34 for a quart, but I'm skeptical that it flows as well as Gluvit.

Gluvit and Coatit are still popular. Prep is key for adhesion.

3. is the roll and tip method still in favor for those which prefer not to spray? I remember this was a fairly new process here at iboats when I first joined back in 2010. I saw some real nice results on YouTube with rolling and tipping and I think this will be my method of painting.

I use roll-n-tip (Interlux Perfection) mainly b/c I don't have proper PPE for spraying 2-part or alkalyde enamel paint with hardener...most people don't and still spray the stuff.

Watermann sprays alot of Van Sickle paint; maybe you have that sold nearby? Their hardener is supposedly less toxic (does not contain isocyanate).

The only area that has given me some fits tipping/rolling were the lapstrakes.

 

[chrisp929]

Wow, thanks. Honestly that was a ton of info. I appreciate your time. Cheers!

 

[chrisp929]

Hey all. Us customs epoxy and fiberglass fabric ordered today. Gluvit ordered via amazon. Interlux brightsides (on sale at west marine for $38.50 a quart) purchased.

a quick heads up. I plan on spraying Raptorliner on the inside of the hull after Gluvit. Currently there is a TON of upholstery glue on the inside of the boat where the old 1976 Nautolex was used. Can anyone suggest the best old contact cement/upholstery remover for the inside of the aluminum hull? Thanks!

also, what’s the best plywood for the floor and transom? I’m looking for low void, solid stuff. Would the premium hardwood/oak/birch sanded plywood (assuming normally used for cabinet making) be good?

thanks again..

 

[classiccat]

Hey all. Us customs epoxy and fiberglass fabric ordered today. Gluvit ordered via amazon. Interlux brightsides (on sale at west marine for $38.50 a quart) purchased.

a quick heads up. I plan on spraying Raptorliner on the inside of the hull after Gluvit. Currently there is a TON of upholstery glue on the inside of the boat where the old 1976 Nautolex was used. Can anyone suggest the best old contact cement/upholstery remover for the inside of the aluminum hull? Thanks!

also, what’s the best plywood for the floor and transom? I’m looking for low void, solid stuff. Would the premium hardwood/oak/birch sanded plywood (assuming normally used for cabinet making) be good?

thanks again..

interlux has a great line of products! I haven't used brightsides but it gets great reviews. What are you prepping/priming with?

Raptorliner might do more harm than good...it doesn't adhere well to aluminum, traps water and may cause corrosion. jbcurt00 loves the stuff. :lol:

For the adhesive, I just used paint stripper (zip, jasco, etc.) and some elbow grease. I've heard guys using Goo Off with some success.

Regarding the plywood, most of us use either exterior grade or marine grade PLY ($$). Avoid pressure treated (most rot aluminum) & the fancy hardwood ply you mentioned (the glue isn't waterproof) unless its exposure rated. I used marine ply on my transom & Aruco BCX (from the box store) on my decks.

 

[jbcurt00]

jbcurt00 loves the stuff. :lol:

Yep, love bedliner material so much I use it as long lasting under garments......

I wouldnt put liner directly on the aluminum hull. Spray components and put them in the boat, maybe....

Gluvit on rivets and seams, then cover w the flotation foam , deck and nautalex.

Raptor liner is unnecessary weight, time and expense IMO.

 

[chrisp929]

i appreciate everyone’s opinion. But, what’s a gallon of it weigh?

good chance I may do nautalex anyway. Not what I want, but I spent hours today attempting to clean off the adhesive from the original nautalex, and I did not get very far at all.

 

[chrisp929]

Hey, where is everyone going for discount marine vinyl upholstery? I want to get pleated vinyl like what came from the factory in them70’s.. the white vinyl with a,line in it every 2 inches?

 

[SHSU]

Think you already got your info on the epoxy, but if you are still kicking it around check post #258 of my thread. I give detail on Fasco and what ODM mentioned to me.

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/own...tton-for-punishment-splashed-july-2019/page18

SHSU

 

[chrisp929]

I just want to make something more clear. Rereading responses, I want to clarify that I won’t be using the Raptorliner to ‘seal’ the boat inside, likeone would with gluvit for example. What I’m doing is attempting to remove the adhesive on the sides of the boat where Starcraft previously glued this ugly green vinyl to the sides of the boat. I feel that Raptorliner will provide a nonskid surface, and require less touch ups over time vs paint. Also it should add a sound deadening and muffling feature like dynamite does on vehicle interiors for example.
see the glue? You can see on the port side where I’ve been wracking it the glue with everything I have. I have a long way to go. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

[chrisp929]

Guys, found something that works very well to soften that 44 year old adhesive. I have it sitting now and will be pressure washing the adhesive off shortly. 1-3 hour sit time, and it’s super low odor. Phew!

 

[Watermann]

^^^ Yeap the adhesive remover and a pressure washer did it for me.

Also if you want to go large and in charge with your pics, I use MS Onedrive to host mine. Instructions in my post # 69

Dried on adhesive from 1979 and using the remover on port side. If things don't look familiar inside it's because this is my V5 SS.

 

[chrisp929]

I appreciate the suggestion on the photo posting, but 99.99% of my online stuff now is on my iPad Pro. I’m quite often limited in options. I tried to host off imgur when I started this thread and it never worked. I really do wish the owners of this site would increase the max pixel size of pics just ‘one’ step higher. But alas, I get it. It’s a free site.

 

[SHSU]

Interesting idea to use the the bed liner for the sides. I used vinyl on mine and when I do it again (with Admiral approval) your way might be the way I go. The vinyl has been a pain to keep sticking to the side.

SHSU

 

[chrisp929]

It should stick well if prepped correctly. Raptorliner is approx $180 for a gallon, I hope a gallon should do it. If I’m short, adding Raptorliner is as simple as spraying over it once it’s cured. I can’t imagine adhering issues if i scuff the aluminum with 180 grit paper as found on a few YouTube vids by u-pol, and I’m certain that it will hold up better than vinyl.
I plan on tinting it bright white. It should brighten the boat and keep the transom area below the splash well easy to clean.

Currently I’m waiting on ups for gluvit today, and US composites for fiberglass and epoxy sealer via ups tomorrow. Once the boat is sealed with glivit, I’ll flip it over and paint the bottom. Then flip it back over, and start on the inside. Lots to do.

 

[ab59]

Howdy , non of my business but I spent weeks scraping off old broke down bedliner off my 1988 SS with a razor knife and it wernt fun. I had a lot of glue on the boat as well and I just knocked off the top layer and glued my carpet right over it. Worked great and stuck well. My only regret is that I laid down the 20 oz carpet onto the new deck , if I were to do it again I would use carpet on the sides and Nautilus on the deck , lesson learned . Sold the boat but i will be wiser for it on the next one. The carpet on the sides knocks down the noise a lot.

 

[Watermann]

If anything I've seen that keeping bedliner clean is impossible due to the rough surface. I had the bed of my truck done at a business and the main cost was prep, the same amount of prep is needed to paint the surface if you want it to adhere to aluminum. I don't think roughing up aluminum with sand paper should be the start and end of the prep or that stuff will start coming off. I don't believe you'll find any proponents of bedliner in an SC tin boat around here.

 

[SHSU]

My only regret is that I laid down the 20 oz carpet onto the new deck , if I were to do it again I would use carpet on the sides and Nautilus on the deck , lesson learned . Sold the boat but i will be wiser for it on the next one. The carpet on the sides knocks down the noise a lot.

Did the carpet adhere well to the sides? That is my only issues I have had with Nautolex, getting it to stay stuck/glued to the sides... I will admit my prep wasn't the best for the glue, but still haven't been thrilled with the results. When I do it again (Next project I hope if Admiral will agree) I will do something else with the sides, just not sure what yet...

+1 for the floor though, we absolutely love the stuff on the gunwales and the deck.

SHSU