How to, or, How not to Restore a boat.

[brownies]

For those of you restoring, refinishing, repairing, or thinking about stuff like that...Maybe this info will help? <br /> There are other ways that are faster and cheaper...There are other ways that are slower and more expensive. <br /> The steps below are sort of a "middle of the road" method...Spending more time than money...Using "good", but, off brand products to save money where I could.<br /> This project is being worked on now. Started with a whole boat a couple of weeks ago. Hull was sprayed yesterday. Explanations under each photo. <br /> Any questions, just ask. Any advice, I'm all ears. Any volunteers...I'll buy the bus ticket!..lol.<br /><br />This was a white and red 19' Stealth Bass Boat. Before any pics, it was disassembled, top cap removed, floor removed to check for any hidden damage, floatation removed, flipped upside down for hull straightening.<br />Hull was block sanded with power block sander and 80 grit to knock down any bad high spots and find any bad low spots.<br />2nd step was a dark gray heavy coat of epoxy primer with a light spattering of a different color (guidecoat). The guidecoat was sanded off by hand with a "long" block sander with 80 grit again to find prev missed high and low spots/imperfections.<br />

<br />3rd step was a coat of yellow epoxy primer with a guidecoat which was again "long blocked" with 180 grit this time. (shown after block sanding with 180).<br />

<br />The dark area is the dark primer showing through after block sanding with 180. The "longblock" sander is shown as well. The next coat of primer should take care of this (hope hope hope).<br />

<br />The white is the boat hull showing. This was a very high spot. More attention to sand this off was given at this point with and just this small area was "spot primered" and blocked a few times before the next step.<br />

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<br />Seat and Top Cap...just to give an idea of what I started with...wooo...pretty, huh?

 

[brownies]

Re: How to, or, How not to Restore a boat.

Step 4 was a coat of dark epoxy primer again with another light guidecoat. This time, the guidecoat was "wetsanded" with 400grit using a small handsized block. Different types of small blocks were used. Small wooden blocks for the larger areas, rigid flat rubber blocks for larger curve areas, sandpaper wrapped around a small piece of scotchbrite for the corners and angles...just be SURE not to DIG. It's all done with flat small circular motion. Usually very light pressure to keep from digging. (sanding using your hand only will create "finger grooves") These are places that will show once the boat is shiney. Look like little "dig marks" about finger size. The darker the color, the more important it is to keep the blocks flat on the surface.<br />5th step was to wash it all down with water and scotchbrite (the red colored scotchbrite/not the green).<br />6th step was to wipe it all down with a "tack cloth" the next day...after the surface was dry and immediately prior to painting.<br />7th step was to spray a coat of non-sanding epoxy primer/sealer, uniform thickness as if it was the final coat. <br />IF your color coat is going to be dark, a lighter color sealer can be used. This was you know when the "color coat" has the hull covered.<br />OR, a dark colored sealer can be used if you are pretty sure you know you can cover it.<br />One way you know it's covered. The other way, doesn't show up so bad if you don't get it covered, and, it takes lots less "color/paint" to cover it. (that's all just personal preference though).<br />8th step is the color coat. This boat was to be painted with a two part system (base coat, clear coat). The base coat was applied, then an hour later, many coats of clear. If using a base/clear system, don't try to hard to make the "color" pretty and shiney or thick. Just make sure the sealer is covered and if using a metalic...make sure it goes on "uniform" so that there are not metalic "splotches" in it. (big areas that look more "metallicy" than others).<br />

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<br /> Color I used was an 05 GM color. The paint chip I used just looked like black metalic. GM called it "black pearlcoat metalic" (or something like that?). Turns out it has a DEEP DARK green tint to it. Which was a bonus since it was a tough decision between dark green or black.<br />The paint was dry when the pics were taken. Next step will be to color sand (wet sand with a soft block with 1500 grit) and then buff. The sooner I do this, the easier it will be. I still like to wait a few days though. If it's "cured" a few days, lots less chance of burning through when buffing.<br /><br />Thats all for now. If anybody wants updates, just say and I'll add some more as they become available.

 

[ondarvr]

Re: How to, or, How not to Restore a boat.

Looks good, I think you do much better than middle of the road work though, Your extensive experiance on cars shows. Your middle of the road is high end for most boat projects.<br /><br />Good job

 

[Solittle]

Re: How to, or, How not to Restore a boat.

Keep the story going - - - - please!

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: How to, or, How not to Restore a boat.

keep it comming, i'm following you.

 

[Mark42]

Re: How to, or, How not to Restore a boat.

Nice finish work on the hull. It's gonna be a real looker when you're done.<br /><br />If I read your post right, you are using GM auto paint on a boat. Any reason you're not using marine paint?<br /><br />What color is planned for the top?

 

[brownies]

Re: How to, or, How not to Restore a boat.

Marine paint? There is probably a time and a place for "marine paint"...this isn't it.<br /> As compared to automobile finishes, Marine paint has advantages that would ever be realized.<br />It also has it's disadvantages as compared to automotive finishes would be realized.<br /> AGAIN. This is NOT comparing one product to the other.<br /> This IS comparing the two products as they relate to this project.<br /><br /> Also, "middle of the road": Again, the paint is not the best money can buy. It's not the cheapest either. Most of the paint supplies are a PPG "generic" brand. Which will be "good enough for who it's for"..me..lol.<br /> ALWAYS ask the paint store if there have ever been any problems (body shop complaints) when using different brands and/or mix matching products. Most of the stuff is compatible, but, evey now and then you will get ahold of stuff that IS SUPPOSSED to be compatible and it's not. Then it's a mess.<br /> Also, boat could have been straighter. Two or three more "blockings" and you wouldn't want to EVER turn it upside down. You would think of all that extra work every time you loaded your boat on the trailer also. Sort of takes the fun out of boating. (Just don't kill yourself being painstakinly picky with the labor if you intend to use the boat).<br /> OR, it could have been "DA" sanded in a few hours and sprayed. Then you would see the flaws...maybe ONLY YOU would see them, but, that'd be enough to wish you had spent more time on it.<br /> (middle of road).<br />More pics and explains later this week.<br /><br />BTW: The next step will be to wetsand the BOTTOM ONLY with 1500 grit, and then buff it back to shine. This gets any dust,bugs,trash, orangepeel, out of the finish. It's how you make it look like glass (I really hate this part). Seldom do I think it "needs" to be done, but, ALWAYS amazed at how much better it looks.<br />WHY ONLY THE BOTTOM?<br />There will be a stripe on the sides. When the boat gets turned back over, the sides will then be wet sanded with 1500 grit. The stripes will be taped off (design for the stripes outer edges). <br /> The stripes will then be sprayed on with a base coat color. A few hours later the tape and paper will be removed. The side of the boat will then be clearcoated again. <br />No rough edges where different colors meet.<br /> THEN, the sides will be wet sanded again with 1500 and buffed.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: How to, or, How not to Restore a boat.

i'm impressed. if it were mine after all this, you couldn't see the side for the fenders.

 

[kfraser]

Re: How to, or, How not to Restore a boat.

Very impressive work. I'm hoping my comes out as nice as yours. It's kinda funny though, as I saw that picture of your boat sitting in the junk yard and then seeing your shop, I thought "he's from Arkansas".... and then I saw that you are from Arkansas !...lol!!

 

[brownies]

Re: How to, or, How not to Restore a boat.

Hey now....<br /> That's not my house. The cars at my house are setting up on blocks...lol.<br /> Actually, you are correct. It's a junkyard.<br />Makes no difference how bad a person wants to keep it looking "not like a junkyard"...It still ends up looking the part.<br /> Battled with the appearance for years...finally gave up and just accepted the fact that you just can't stay ahead of cleaning up after that many employees.<br /> Now we just take a week off each year and clean/re-organize. Usually the week before the insurance guy comes for inspection.<br /> I am proud of a couple of things though. 10 acres, 6 vehicles a week, avg 600 parts cars...and...never more than 20 loose tires at any time. The only petroleum products are here are in a big tank, or still in vehicles that have been here less than a couple of weeks.<br /> BUT, no matter how hard I try, this place looks like a junkyard 11 months out of the year.

 

[andy6374]

Re: How to, or, How not to Restore a boat.

This is a novice question.<br /><br />Is 1500 grit to fine for the paint to properly adhere to?<br /><br /><br />Thanks

 

[ondarvr]

Re: How to, or, How not to Restore a boat.

I like that you use automotive paint, for 90% of the small boat projects it's a better choice than marine products, that may, or may not be the same thing, only relabeled and at a higher price.

 

[Always Broke]

Re: How to, or, How not to Restore a boat.

Hey brownies,<br /> Here in Florida when our car breaks down and we have to put it up on blocks is how we decide where to put our mobile homes. Beautiful boat by the way. I tried that trick using automotive paint on my Correct Craft though and didn’t have very good luck. I used Imron and everything was fine trailering the boat but when I left it in the water for a week to do some work on the trailer everything below the water line pealed off! The top side still looks like the day it was painted and that was about seven years ago. I ended up putting bottom paint below the water line, I hope you have better luck.

 

[Mark42]

Re: How to, or, How not to Restore a boat.

Originally posted by Always Broke:<br /> Hey brownies,<br /> ....I tried that trick using automotive paint on my Correct Craft though and didn’t have very good luck. I used Imron and everything was fine trailering the boat but when I left it in the water for a week to do some work on the trailer everything below the water line pealed off! The top side still looks like the day it was painted and that was about seven years ago. I ended up putting bottom paint below the water line, I hope you have better luck.

This is what I have heard from others that used auto paint on the bottom. Lots of boats painted with auto paint. It's usually just used on the top side. Brownies will probably be just fine if he just puts it in for the day.

 

[brownies]

Re: How to, or, How not to Restore a boat.

My current boat has sat at in the water at campgrounds (against the bank, and in marinas) for 10 or so days at a time. Many times, It's single stage Imron and I've not had any trouble with it. Boat does spend an average of at least 20hrs per week in the water. But, for the most part, it does sleep on the trailer when it's not in use.<br /> Prep work was about the same as the boat I'm working on now...aside from having to repair a huge hole in the side where a car hit it. <br /> Use good adhering primers before painting. Not sure what would cause auto paint to flake off other than something that was under the paint, or some prep work that might have been missed? <br /> I just don't know. <br />I have had paints do some odd things though, bubble and peel and and and anything horrible that you can imagine. Paint it one day, come back the next day to find a mess. Just stuff wasn't compatible or else paint shop mixed things wrong. Never really know why these things happened. Never attempted same products again though...lol.<br /><br />If you just used Imron over sanded gelcoat or fiberglass, I'd think it might not adhere correctly? At the least a good coat of DP40 or similar primer might have helped.<br />Again, just guessing though...not sure why it would peel off?

 

[Bondo]

Re: How to, or, How not to Restore a boat.

All Right brownies,.... I Love what you're Doing.........<br /><br />Beautiful Work.........<br /><br />I've painted Several Boats,.... Trailer Queens,+ Dock Boats,.......<br />I've been using a 2 part Ureathane from NAPA,.... MSU is their house name for it......<br /><br />I Must be doing Something Right,........<br />I've had No paint Issues,.... At All.........<br />At about $100.00@Gallon,.... It Ain't Cheap,.... But it goes down So Sweet.........<br /><br />'Course,..... When I start telling folks How Good It Works,...........<br />You'd Think I was telling them to install an Automotive Motor in their Boat............................

 

[ondarvr]

Re: How to, or, How not to Restore a boat.

I have used 2 part PUs (non marine) for 25+ years, with and without primer, with no bonding issues. If it failed in a short period of time, then there's more to the story. There were some products availible before the feds outlawed the formulas that I used to refinish fiberglass swimming pools and hot tubs. I used a base coat clear coat process with no primer. The only problem was after the formulas were changed to meet the newer regulations, then it would start to chalk after a few years, but there were no bonding problems.

 

[brownies]

Re: How to, or, How not to Restore a boat.

Yep, back when you could inhale all the lead you wanted...those were the days. I think those paint products were better.<br /> I think if an auto paint "lets go"...there were other issues. Does not have to be immediate either. Some things take months or years to show up. An example would be those few years of GM vehicles that were bad to peel paint (it did take a few years though). This was due to a compatability problem that GM wasn't aware of. It wasn't because they used car paint on a truck. It was because they used Non compatible products together. (the same would have happenned on a boat if GM made boats those years...or...it would not have happenned to Ford's boats if they made boats).<br /><br /> When I hear the words "boat paint"...I get a mental image of repainting my house. Same sort of prep work, same sort of application....Same sort of boat. (big enough to be a house).<br /> While I trully have not researched this, it just seems like it might be similar to the difference between trailer bunk carpet, boat carpet, dock carpet, marine carpet, or indoor/outdoor carpet.<br /><br /> Sorry, I think I may have just drifted into a stump. Back to project...<br /><br /> Buffing STINKS!!!

 

[tld]

Re: How to, or, How not to Restore a boat.

Most paint problems are due to surface prep.Paint is only as good as the surface it is put on.Get all the wax off good sanding job wipe surface real clean epoxy primer sand clean then apply PU should not have a problem JM2C

 

[tld]

Re: How to, or, How not to Restore a boat.

Forgot beautiful paint job I have to respect that much attention to detail