I'm not sure where to post this - Moderators, please move to the appropriate forum as required.
'97 Sea Ray 240 Sundancer. Yesterday, I was trimming the boat out and could not get the boat leveled. I shut the engine off and pressed one switch, then the other and could not hear the pump run. The 20 amp fuse was blown and I replaced it and pressed one of the buttons and the fuse blew.
Went back to the marina and unplugged the pump unit, replaced the fuse and pressed the switches on the dash and the fuse did not blow. The wiring at the switches looks fine - nothing is chafed. I could not see anything wrong with the wiring at the pump or connector either.
I plugged the pump back in and replaced the fuse and pressed the button - I heard the pump run for about two seconds and the fuse blew again.
I am thinking the issue is either a stuck ram or something in the pump is bad causing it to draw excessive current.
I tested the switches on the dash and they tested OK so I believe the issue is with the pump unit or the cylinders are frozen up but I'm leaning toward the pump unit since before the issue with the fuse, I was able to fully retract them, stalling the pump without blowing the fuse. I believe the units are able to be rebuilt.
I plan to unplug the pump and verify the correct voltages at the respective wire colors vs. the switch positions at the harness end. That will verify the wiring from the switches on the dash to the pump unit.
'97 Sea Ray 240 Sundancer. Yesterday, I was trimming the boat out and could not get the boat leveled. I shut the engine off and pressed one switch, then the other and could not hear the pump run. The 20 amp fuse was blown and I replaced it and pressed one of the buttons and the fuse blew.
Went back to the marina and unplugged the pump unit, replaced the fuse and pressed the switches on the dash and the fuse did not blow. The wiring at the switches looks fine - nothing is chafed. I could not see anything wrong with the wiring at the pump or connector either.
I plugged the pump back in and replaced the fuse and pressed the button - I heard the pump run for about two seconds and the fuse blew again.
I am thinking the issue is either a stuck ram or something in the pump is bad causing it to draw excessive current.
I tested the switches on the dash and they tested OK so I believe the issue is with the pump unit or the cylinders are frozen up but I'm leaning toward the pump unit since before the issue with the fuse, I was able to fully retract them, stalling the pump without blowing the fuse. I believe the units are able to be rebuilt.
I plan to unplug the pump and verify the correct voltages at the respective wire colors vs. the switch positions at the harness end. That will verify the wiring from the switches on the dash to the pump unit.