'85 Stringer motor raises under load

[WA-Newb]

Totally new to stern drives and to this boat. Just now figured out that my trim button is supposed to actually raise the engine off the mounts and that's how it's designed..this may be a good thing or a bad thing for what I am going to ask next...lol

Last weekend I took it out for test run and I had the engine cover off, I noticed a pretty surprising amount of lift on the engine when I would give it throttle, especially during hole shot...not knowing I had this type of trim I really panicked and headed to shore at a crawl.

Also to note, the trim button on the shift lever appears to do nothing. The tilt function does work as it should.

If anyone can tell me their thoughts on this I would greatly appreciate it. I have googled for many hours and have nothing to show for it on whether this lift engine lifting / lowering may be normal and by design or if there is a definite problem...and if it's a problem where to start looking.

Thank you.

 

[kenny nunez]

It appears that there is no hydraulic fluid in the system and the engine is just flopping up and down. You need to listen first if the hydraulic trim pump is running when you try the switch. If the pump runs then add some power steering fluid to the system and run the pump to see where the fluid is leaking. If the pump does not run then start from there to troubleshoot the system.

 

[WA-Newb]

Kenny, from my limited knowledge of hydraulic systems that was going to be my only guess but I didn't want to state that and sound even more newbish...lol I have only known about this type of trim system for a day now but the very minute my back allows me to stand up again (just threw it out this morning) I will be checking for pump noise..and fluid.

Bonus question...If I can't get the trim pump working for whatever reason and want to take the boat out for some fishing next week...a) is it safe like this b) if not..is there some way to "lock" the engine down by chance? Only safety issue I see is if the engine slams back down repeatedly onto the floor / mounts...but there is a rubber mount there so perhaps that will soften the impact? performance seemed fine even with this problem...safety and damage to boat is main concern.

Thank you.

 

[southkogs]

You've got an OMC Stringer drive: it's an antique. They stopped making that system in 1986, so realize that you're running a drive isn't like most I/Os on the water today.

If you can get the trim to stay in place somehow (I don't know the hydraulic sets - the old mechanicals would hold in place, though), then it's no problem to run the boat. It may not perform well depending on where the system is trimmed, but you should be able to drive it.

 

[Scott Danforth]

if its a 3.0, the nut on the top of the worm drive screw backed off and is loose

if its a 3.8 or 5.0 or 5.7, you would be low on hydraulic fluid.

 

[kenny nunez]

About the only way is to raise the engine to the mid point of the trim ram and cut a piece of wood with a slot to place over the ram and either some chain bolted to the engine with a turn buckle bolted to the stringer or some flat stock steel. This should hold the engine down. There are solid engine mount kits available since this engine was also used without power trim.
I am guessing this is a Chevy engine that OMC, Mercruiser, Volvo plus several marinizers have solid mounts. If it is a Ford engine there are the same style mounts available since all the previous marinizers used.

 

[WA-Newb]

Thank you all for the comments and suggestions...even with my back so bad I can hardly stand up I forced myself out to the boat today and added fluid..it appeared to be empty. I ran the switch and did here the pump for once..it never raised though.
Figuring it may be like my tractor and could have air in the lines I continued to run the switch for a couple of seconds..then added fluid..and repeated. Finally got a small nudge on the motor but no lift and battery is now dead so on the charger.

This brings me to two more questions....
1) Is this just an electric motor that runs the hydraulics? It must be...or is there some pulley off the engine that also helps build pressure that I am not seeing?

2) I have read that you are not supposed to run these motors when the drive is raised...is that only when in gear? Reason I ask..if the drive is lowered and I try to raise motor via the trim there is nowhere for the prop / drive to go as it will be on the ground.

Also..good to know there are solid mounts available..I would like to not go through that expense / work bu at least it's an option..the boat handled great without trim so if I can just get it stable I will be good to go...may attempt the blocking method mentioned above if I run out of luck on bleeding the system...but who knows..maybe the fluid alone would cause enough resistance and keep the motor stable?..trying to think how it would function if working properly..would there always be pressure in there or only when using the trim?..hmm.

Thanks again.

 

[WA-Newb]

I keep adding fluid..charging battery..adding fluid etc. The trim pump appears to sound pretty strong when button is first pressed then after about 5 seconds crawls to a stop each time with zero engine lift.

Not sure how yet but wondering if using a jack or even my bucket on my tractor with a come along would help assist it or not? I don't want to break anything and not sure if the mounts are screws or flat round steel like a bottle jack.

Thoughts anyone?

 

[kenny nunez]

A small bottle jack will work to lift the engine since there is a hydraulic leak somewhere. Just be careful while using the bottle jack. The best place to push up from will be the crankshaft pulley with a block of wood.
Which engine is in the boat? Ford or Chevy.

 

[WA-Newb]

A small bottle jack will work to lift the engine since there is a hydraulic leak somewhere. Just be careful while using the bottle jack. The best place to push up from will be the crankshaft pulley with a block of wood.
Which engine is in the boat? Ford or Chevy.

Sorry for delay..was laid up all day yesterday.
It's the Chevy.

I haven't had any luck yet getting it to lift so when I get home this afternoon I am going to try a better fluid...I decided to use my lighter weight (32) hydraulic fluid since I have a couple five gallon pails of it..but everyone is saying to use tranny fluid so that's what I will do.

I am also going to take it out to a local lake and have someone use the controls while I watch the engine for once...I was thinking that just the extra water pressure may be enough to make it work since the motor was rising on its own anyway.
Will update on my success but it won't be until this evening.

Oh yeah...Also wondering if there is any difference between the two different drain screws on this pump other than location? I didn't realize there was one on the back side as well..thinking it's just there so the pump can be accessed in different setup scenarios. Then was worried that maybe I need to do something else to bleed this system other than running pump..cracking fill screw open..filling it and repeating process?

Thank you.

 

[kenny nunez]

The system will self bleed and the hydraulic fluid you have should work better than transmission fluid since it will not foam like transmission will do. I used to have a bug or garden sprayer that I used to fill the trim pumps with a small hose that fitted in the fill port. I am sure you will find the leak once the system is filled and working.