2008 mercury 2 stroke 30hp bogging under lead, please read the list

motiondave

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Joined
Oct 4, 2020
Messages
5
Hi there people. I have a 2008, 30hp 2 stroke that bogs under load.
we have , as follows.

compression is perfect on both cylinders, 150 psi.

Its been to two mechanics and came back with two different answers. one said replace several ignition parts and coils under and above the flywheel, supposedly faulty, did that, no success
another said replace fuel pump, carby, fuel lines, clean everything, no sucess

We have replaced..
CDI, exicter coil, (charge coil shows right voltage) , coil for spark, recitfier. new plugs (tried different gaps)
spark overall seems good according to spark tester. no fouled plugs, they are the right colour
It was suggested we run a DVA meter, but as said, both coils under flywheel are either replaced or checked to be good.
new carby, new fuel pump, all new fuel lines,
new tank, new fittings.
Still bogs, like too much fuel, gets to 10 knots and bogs, but does not stall. (which is weird as I tried BRAND NEW carby) , we did try, with boat on trailer, running it in gear and spraying fuel into carby and it bogged more, so not lack of fuel.
reed plate has been inspected and checked to be ok.
prop is standard 9.9 x 11 , and we are only pushing a 9 foot boat with it.
fuel, weve tried 60:1 mix instead of 50:1, unless its supposed to be something different (70?100:1?)

we are trying, as time allows, changing the jet sizes to see if we get results.

Is there anything, apart from a full tear down of the power head , its been suggested gasket leaks between crank cases(would rather not go to that) , have we missed anything to test or check?

Kindest Regards, David Lane.
 

The Force power

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Joined
Feb 3, 2019
Messages
2,359
Welcome to IBoats :welcome:

Have verified if the Timing is set correctly?

At the top of the Merc. forum are sticky notes with helpful info; worth looking through, you can also use the search-bar at the top to type in key word(s) pertaining your issues
 
Last edited:

flyingscott

Fleet Admiral
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Apr 8, 2014
Messages
8,290
A 9' boat is pretty short Do you have a longshaft on a short shaft boat by any chance? A boat that short probably has a lot of bow rise. Are the exhaust ports submerged when this is happening?
 

motiondave

Recruit
Joined
Oct 4, 2020
Messages
5
Welcome to IBoats :welcome:

Have verified if the Timing is set correctly?

At the top of the Merc. forum are sticky notes with helpful info; worth looking through, you can also use the search-bar at the top to type in key word(s) pertaining your issues

yes, timing is ciorrect, tried a few different settings as well, thanks, I will look at the sticky thread
 

motiondave

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Joined
Oct 4, 2020
Messages
5
A 9' boat is pretty short Do you have a longshaft on a short shaft boat by any chance? A boat that short probably has a lot of bow rise. Are the exhaust ports submerged when this is happening?

it needs a long shaft due to hull design, short shaft cavitates, we had a 15hp long shaft on it no problem, but the old motor only gave me 16 knots, I need more speed.
yes the exhaust is submerged from what we can see.
 

flyingscott

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 8, 2014
Messages
8,290
it needs a long shaft due to hull design, short shaft cavitates, we had a 15hp long shaft on it no problem, but the old motor only gave me 16 knots, I need more speed.
yes the exhaust is submerged from what we can see.

I am talking about the upper exhaust reliefs. Are they under water when this is happening?
 

motiondave

Recruit
Joined
Oct 4, 2020
Messages
5
another thing
It occurred to me yesterday, my brother has been thinking about it as well.
possible wiring short
the engine is electric and pull start
we have been only using the electric start via the key.
another thing, im using aftermarket dual lever controls, one for gears, one for throttle.
also, the neutral cut out switch in the factory controls, connects when in neutral for ignition and engine to start, then it disconnects after that in gear.
It occurred to me, instead of putting a push button switch in replacement of that, Ive simply connected both those wires permanently on.
we have yet to test the motor via pull start with the key switch disconnected, but id say I still will need a temporary switch for neutral start...whats the chances of neutral switch on permanently causing electrical feedback causing the whole ignition circuit to play up?
Obviously yet to test that as there is a 30hp ol johnson in its place currently, so I will get back to the Mercury later.
 
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