68 Cobia houseboat restoration/transom repair

[gwhaling]

The transom in this houseboat I recently purchased is soft, bad along bottom. Lots of brown,wet wood with few test drills. I am looking at doing this transom replacement from rear of boat due to size, height on trailer. Cutting the cap, working inside would all have to be done with step ladders...
The boat does not have stringer all the way back to transom. They end at rear door entrance. Most of these boats were i/o drives. Have found only one photo of outboard/mount or I would be wondering if mount on my boat is factory.
I have read enough about cutting rear skin inside by couple inches and thinking of working with 3 layers of 1/2 plywoood......
Looking for opinions, only materials purchased so far is 3 gallons of epoxy......

 

[Scott Danforth]

your light on the amount of epoxy by about 12 gallons.

I would have gone poly

 

[Scott Danforth]

your total list of materials wont be known until you cut out the full extent of the rot. that is all the wood in the transom and the keel and stringers

once that is out, I would start replacing the wood. laminate your wood with tite-bond III (water proof glue) to make your transom wood. bond it to the transom skin with PB, then fillet with PB.

then if using poly, tab with CSM and 1708. if using epoxy, tab with 1.5 oz cloth and 1700.

epoxy will cost you more than double what poly will.

use the sticky links as a guide. specifically links 14, 15, 18, 2, 3, 4a, and 4b

How To's and Other Great Information

Disclaimer iBoats has no control over external links contained in stickies and to be aware that links are fluid and may or may not work. 1. Coast Guard Safety Standards for Backyard Boat Builders Verified 2. Fiberglass Information Verified 3. Pouring Foam in's and out's Verified 4A. Basic...

forums.iboats.com

 

[gwhaling]

your total list of materials wont be known until you cut out the full extent of the rot. that is all the wood in the transom and the keel and stringers

once that is out, I would start replacing the wood. laminate your wood with tite-bond III (water proof glue) to make your transom wood. bond it to the transom skin with PB, then fillet with PB.

then if using poly, tab with CSM and 1708. if using epoxy, tab with 1.5 oz cloth and 1700.

epoxy will cost you more than double what poly will.

use the sticky links as a guide. specifically links 14, 15, 18, 2, 3, 4a, and 4b

How To's and Other Great Information

Disclaimer iBoats has no control over external links contained in stickies and to be aware that links are fluid and may or may not work. 1. Coast Guard Safety Standards for Backyard Boat Builders Verified 2. Fiberglass Information Verified 3. Pouring Foam in's and out's Verified 4A. Basic...

forums.iboats.com

Thanks, I will read through again, browsed quickly. I plan on starting work late February.

 

[proshadetree]

Awesome little project you have there. I love my houseboat and waking up on the water is awesome. Following along on your quest.

 

[gwhaling]

Awesome little project you have there. I love my houseboat and waking up on the water is awesome. Following along on your que

Yeah I hope little project, will start in couple months. Hope to have done by June. Its a nice size for trailerable houseboat,22' and about 6000lbs.
Campsites were hard to find this summer at decent lakes.....I hope to leave at local lake during summer months. Be nice to have camper/boat in water waiting.

 

[gwhaling]

The transom in this houseboat I recently purchased is soft, bad along bottom. Lots of brown,wet wood with few test drills. I am looking at doing this transom replacement from rear of boat due to size, height on trailer. Cutting the cap, working inside would all have to be done with step ladders...
The boat does not have stringer all the way back to transom. They end at rear door entrance. Most of these boats were i/o drives. Have found only one photo of outboard/mount or I would be wondering if mount on my boat is factory.
I have read enough about cutting rear skin inside by couple inches and thinking of working with 3 layers of 1/2 plywoood......
Looking for opinions, only materials purchased so far is 3 gallons of epoxy......

I have been digging in for last month. Working on front of boat mainly. Stringers are ok. The front of cabin had separated and dropped. I have lifted one side and pulled hull back in with a strap. From the factory there was a aluminum plate that pulled away in the front. I am thinking about bracing thick 90degree bracket from rear also. Tied into the railing, inner part of hull. Any thoughts??
Also lucky here in WV I guess. I was able to get 3 sheets of 3/4 marine plywood last month for 106$ a sheet.
The lower board in last photo is a removable brace.

 

[gwhaling]

I have been digging in for last month. Working on front of boat mainly. Stringers are ok. The front of cabin had separated and dropped. I have lifted one side and pulled hull back in with a strap. From the factory there was a aluminum plate that pulled away in the front. I am thinking about bracing thick 90degree bracket from rear also. Tied into the railing, inner part of hull. Any thoughts??
Also lucky here in WV I guess. I was able to get 3 sheets of 3/4 marine plywood last month for 106$ a sheet.
The lower board in last photo is a removable brace. I forgot to include a photo of aluminum plate. It was, is about size of license plate. Riveted to bulkhead, glassed to hull and bulkhead