Diagnosing 75hp ELPTO starting problem

[zeebuoy]

I've got an early 2000 outboard that has been sitting for about 5 years. Plugs, fluids, and fuel has been changed, carbs were cleaned, and the engine cranks healthily.

Fuel is getting to the carbs, but it won't start or fire. The enricher clicks when engaged at the key, but with the line removed from the solenoid, no fuel is pumped through. It fires when I add fuel to the line off the enricher (going into the manifold)--but then sputters and dies.

My thinking is to replace the fuel pump and the solenoid. Either the pump is weak and not providing enough pressure or the enricher is shot. Or both.

Asking the forum to make sure I'm not missing anything... Any thoughts?

 

[racerone]

The enricher is NOT a pump.-------Some will argue but i would start with charging the battery.----Load testing the battery even if new.----Press the key in while cranking so that the enricher works.

 

[zeebuoy]

Thanks for your quick reply!

Maybe I'm wrong here, but is the enricher more of a valve--i.e. when pressing the key in, fuel is sent directly into the manifold, bypassing the carburetors? I would think that if I am hearing the "click" when pressed, that the solenoid is working well. When I pulled off the "outflow" hose from the solenoid, no fuel flowed out when I turned the key and pushed in--though it did click.

I will charge up the battery and see what happens!

 

[racerone]

Correct the enricher is a valve.----Post # 1 clearly states that you were expecting fuel to come out of the enricher.

 

[zeebuoy]

Correct the enricher is a valve.----Post # 1 clearly states that you were expecting fuel to come out of the enricher.

Maybe I wasn't clear--my mistake. I was expecting fuel to leave the enricher when engaged (key turned and pushed in). As far I can tell, nothing exits the enricher solenoid when it is activated.

 

[racerone]

Motor has to be cranking and developing vacuum for enricher to work. !!!

 

[Texasmark]

Motor has to be cranking and developing vacuum for enricher to work. !!!

"......developing vacuum......." on one side (of the fuel pump) and pressure on the other, or prior to attempting to start the engine, you pumped the squeeze bulb till it was firm essentially pressurizing the entire engine fuel system....aka your "pump". The enricher merely delivered the product when activated.

 

[zeebuoy]

Understood-- and thank you again. I developed such tunnel vision with the fuel and spark systems that I failed to consider the weak battery. I swapped it out with a new, charged, starting battery which works wonders.

The engine cranked over a few times and shut down immediately each time. While adjusting the advanced throttle, I was able to keep it running for no more than 5 seconds or so. I am following the manual's starting procedure exactly. With some experimenting with the enricher and the advanced throttle--it will start back up again, or not. I assume continued use of the enricher will flood the engine. Is there a good procedure to get it restarted and idling?

 

[Texasmark]

How long since last operation does matter. Running yesterday vs 3 months ago makes starting obviously easier and fuel availability in the combustion chamber is the reason.

Every engine I ever owned had it's procedure and that procedure varied as the time of year, environment, and minutes to months since it last ran. My gut feel is think: Is there any fuel in the combustion chamber and if not how far away is it? With that mindset, plan your method accordingly.

I do not attempt to start a first of the outing engine without a firm squeeze bulb and fast idle all the way up or at least above half way the distance.....ready to back off as soon as the engine catches.

The fuel enrichment gets activated on first start for a few seconds...time depedent upon above and colder ambient temps require longer. The fuel enrichment uses squeeze bulb pressure to move fuel once opened so if you do much of that, or cranking without starting, go back and firm up the bulb.....that is your "fuel pump" when the engine isn't running.

So we are at max fast idle, in N obviously, have turned the key to on, pushed in for determined length of time....usually 10-20 seconds depending on the above time line, roll the key on over to start and wait for it to hit:

1. It could hit and race.....cut the fast idle back to 1500-2000 rpms then drop as engine comes online....matter of 10-20 seconds.... with the fingers on the key, ready to push in (fuel enrichment needed) if it stumbles, only till it recovers and let go. Keep your fingers on the key and any stumbling gets hit with more FE as above. Only enough to satisfy otherwise as you said flooding possibility....usually accompanied by smell of gas if wind is in the right direction and maybe oil on top of water around mid section.

2. Next it hits and immediately dies.....you are getting there but ran out of gas....more gas needed: Pump bulb back up, get back on FE on key till it lights again and repeat 1. above.

3. No response and nothing wrong with engine....good battery spinning engine at 200 rpms normal cranking speed.......Repeat 1. expecting it to hit and since it doesn't, release the key or turn it off, matters not, back to the bulb. wait a minute or two and repeat 1. Should respond.

Other thing is I always start my engines vertical and engine in the water on the trailer.

 

[zeebuoy]

Great advice. Thank you for the detailed response.

I got it running, with full advanced throttle and a few shots of the FE. Ran for about 30 seconds--and would've kept going--except there was no water exiting the tell-tale. I suppose I could fire it up and check for water exiting the exhaust, but, as its been sitting for years--I'm going to replace the impeller and try it then.

 

[Texasmark]

I'd replace the "rest of the rubber" too: Fuel lines, fuel pump kit, squeeze bulb and tank to engine hose, put in carb kits, if it has a fuel filter change that too. You already told us, with what you did and the response you got, that you have lack of adequate fuel problems.

Check the LU for any yellowing of the oil or obvious appearance of water.....while you are changing the LU oil! If visible, while you are redoing the water pump, replace the drive shaft seals under the pump and new washers under your LU drain and vent screws.......and if intrusion continues, the shift shaft seal and prop shaft seals in the LU.