hasn't been there since I owned it but I just discovered it yesterday when checking for broken wires.Are you saying the 20 amp fuse is no longer on the motor ?
hasn't been there since I owned it but I just discovered it yesterday when checking for broken wires.Are you saying the 20 amp fuse is no longer on the motor ?
hasn't been there since I owned it but I just discovered it yesterday
there was/is a fuse on front part of engine ( got to check where it goes ) but it doesn't appear to be to cranking circuit. AND it is not blown.hasn't been there since I owned it but I just discovered it yesterday when checking for broken wires.
as I suspected there was a grounding problem BUT also found a break in wire from switch to 12 volt at solenoid. Thanks for your help. I went back to square 1 and found break by twisting and turning the motorthe fact that you have 2 symptoms (no sparks... no start) would indicate it would be a very bad lucky situation to have a bad selenoid.
selenoids are simple devices with a single internal coil to magnetically close the starter circuit .
the control wire should show 12v while in START mode while the other side is grounded either internally or by a wire direct to ground or via a safety switch
the selenoid should click
I suspect you have no 12v feeding the relay since the same12v is missing on the ignition circuitry (no spark)
before spending to much money on selenoids you should try to hunt down the missing 12v
you can test the selenoid operation by directly applying a fresh 12v on the + control post
btw make certain +12v is reaching you key B+ post and the key is internally transferring +12 to the ignition, choke and start posistions
another issue is improprer ground of the engine frame itself. you could have all the 12v in the world with nowhere to go if the engine and grounded components are not "grounded" to return the current flow back to the battery NEG post .
inspect all battery cables connections for oxidation or bad crimps . Clean up all connections. battery end and engine end
you could also test by having a buddy holding the key on START and poke around by bending accessible wires, tapping around to detect any loose or internally broken/oxidzed wires. turn the engine side to side while in start mode.
Intermittent problems area pain Hard dead is usually much simpler![]()
thanks for your help. hit strokes of luck today. Stole a 2005 70 hp suzuki 4 strokefor 1000 bucks that was suppose to be blown. Had just had lower unit replaced and ran hot in less than 4 hours. I found that when unit was put back on the water tube wasn't lined up and the water inlet at bottom of motor was put in backwards. History says 312 hours with 4 minor codes. Guess I'll be re-powering for sure now LOLGreat newsglad you got her fixed up and gave us the feedback .
I had a similar issue on a MERC 50 years ago. .found a broken wire in the side fat connector, the result of years of bending .