2 Stroke Oldie Evinrude.-

[Sea Rider]

Came to my hands this oldie motor, a real challenge to revive and put back into full operation like used to work in the good old boating days. Scenario :



Seems to be a 2 HP 1978 year model motor with direct prop drive. To begin with the motor was found seized, with removed starter assy and spark plug the flywheel won’t turn a bit. The motor was laid horizontal, the cylinder was flooded with WD-40 through the spark plug orifice to penetrate and lube the piston/rings/cylinder so to unlock all 3 in a row if such thing can happen shortly. If in 2 more days there’s no progress at all will try a long brake fluid soak.

Wouldn't want to remove the cylinder head due to risking breaking the 42 year old cylinder gasket. Is there any other safe method you guys use to unlock such parts resting inside the cylinder ?

Carb challenge, needs a long and extensive external/internal manual maintenance,
​

will see if possible to put back into operation with same existing carb parts, but at less than $30 bucks will surely go for a carb kit which must be imported, no issues with that.​

Happy Boating

 

[JimS123]

Looks like a salt water motor. Before you give up on the old thing, pull the lower unit and remove, lubricate the impeller. If you're lucky that might be what's binding, not the powerhead.

Also, doesn't look like a 'Rude. Post the model and serial numbers off the ID plate and I'll look it up in the book.

 

[racerone]

Looks like scrap metal to me.-----Likely rusted needle bearings and crankshaft.

 

[todd281]

If you have the plug out , you can try this, 1- get another plug that fits in the head. 2- break out the glass insulator including the stuff around the electrode. 3- take what remains [the steel part with a hole in the center] and tap threads in it to accept a grease fitting. 4- screw that into the head and put a grease gun to it.

You will be filling the cylinder with grease and using that grease /and the pressure from the gun to force the piston down. This method only works if the piston is not at the bottom of its stroke. Check it with a probe through the plug hole before trying.
After you will need to wash all that grease back out , [I use some heat also]
As stated earlier , she looks to be in rough shape . Good luck

 

[Faztbullet]

Wallhanger......

 

[JimS123]

Wallhanger......

True. But they can be valuable as well. If your Man Cave doesn't have a motor hanging on the wall, you're not a real boater.

 

[Sea Rider]

Yep definitely a Pandora Oldie with no sticker information, is there a stamped serial number to look for ? if so, where that might be ? Have checked current shown carb against severeal others 2 HP ones and that carb corresponds to a 2HP 2802R/1978 model year, on all previous years the cam follower it's shaped differently. Is the fuel shut valve located under the integrated fuel tank's a push/pull or a in/out screw type valve ? Right now it's extremely jammed.

Find Evinrude/Yam's and other brands motors to be too darn complicated to work with when searching for spare parts, too many year models to deal with while the HP remains same.. Like the simplicity of Tohatsu in which the HP/model it's what counts, not the year of fabrication.

Tomarrow will pull the lower unit, hope the drive shaft is not seized into the lower crankshaft. If the gear box is jammed due to being a direct drive could also jam the powerhead, will see what we find.

The motor has few run hours, the issue is that sat for too many years with fuel sitting in tank and carb at a storage garage. On such type of motors draining fuel tank's contents and running carb dry is a must go for. A pity that outboards motors are highly misunderstood by too many boaters worldwide.

Wondering if such nice motor collection it's 100% operational ? As stated before it's a real challenge to put that oldie into operation along having fun time playing mechanic doing so....

Thanks all,
Happy Boating​

 

[JimS123]

Yep definitely a Pandora Oldie with no sticker information, is there a stamped serial number to look for ? if so, where that might be ? Have checked current shown carb against severeal others 2 HP ones and that carb corresponds to a 2HP 2802R/1978 model year, on all previous years the cam follower it's shaped differently. Is the fuel shut valve located under the integrated fuel tank's a push/pull or a in/out screw type valve ? Right now it's extremely jammed.

Find Evinrude/Yam's and other brands motors to be too darn complicated to work with when searching for spare parts, too many year models to deal with while the HP remains same.. Like the simplicity of Tohatsu in which the HP/model it's what counts, not the year of fabrication.

Tomarrow will pull the lower unit, hope the drive shaft is not seized into the lower crankshaft. If the gear box is jammed due to being a direct drive could also jam the powerhead, will see what we find.

The motor has few run hours, the issue is that sat for too many years with fuel sitting in tank and carb at a storage garage. On such type of motors draining fuel tank's contents and running carb dry is a must go for. A pity that outboards motors are highly misunderstood by too many boaters worldwide.

Wondering if such nice motor collection it's 100% operational ? As stated before it's a real challenge to put that oldie into operation along having fun time playing mechanic doing so....

Thanks all,
Happy Boating​

Two of my motors are stuck and I have not been able to loosen them. Both were obtained free. One more was a saltwater motor and although its not stuck, too much corrosion to bother with it. I paid $5 for it. Five more are in various stages of a problem and don't run. The other 61 motors all run. I rotate them periodically on nice Sundays on an old classic boat, just for fun. My "daily drivers" are all 4-stroke Mercs.

About 1 mile from my house is a marine dealer that services old motors. He has parts for almost everything, and he is on the internet as well. In the USA ANY OMC motor parts are readily available. I wouldn't even try to find a Tohatsu part.

OMC and Merc motors have a steel plate riveted to the motor bracket that lists the model and serial numbers. Over here if its missing its probably a stolen motor. In its absence, the numbers might be embossed in the freeze plug.

 

[Sea Rider]

Carb Progress :
Managed to remove both heavily stuck main carb needles after a short soak in paint thinner, although both were polished the bodies looks awful but both needle's tips are in excellent working shape, what scared me off were the huge prices for just 2 carb parts being the latter a bent simple thick wire.




Pulled the lower leg easily, the drive shaft upper splines were not seized into the lower crank shaft, but the lower drive shaft was seized into the water pump's housing. Applying several drops of brake fluid at both sides and a short soak did the trick, now spins freely. The impeller was found severely twisted, the rubber is still very flexible so can be inverted, the inside liner which it's not removable will need to be polished to perfection.



Hopped that after removing the seized lower leg the flywheel will turn, didn't budged a bit, spraying overdose of WD-40 did nothing as expected. As was useless to work with a sealed powerhead, removed the reed valve assy, the exhaust cover and cylinder head to have a look inside. All bolts came off quite easily, no excessive salt formations were found on the entire water circuit, definitely a very low hour used motor.




With a puller removed the flywheel assy, the plate's armature electrical components were found in excellent shape. Would like to remove the entire plate to access the upper crankshaft's needle bearing. Question, the magneto cam is held in place with a internal pin, is there a way to hold it with a tool, not damage it and pull it upwards or will necessarily be leveraged at the base with a sharp object once the charger coil, breaker point assy and condenser have been previously removed from plate.



Once done will pull the powerhead off the middle leg, remove the lower bearing assy to access the lower crankshaft's bearing. Plan a long powerhead soak in brake fluid to unlock a cocktail of seized parts such as piston and rings front/rear connecting rod, upper and lower crankshaft bearings. Let's see what happens, there's nothing to lose and a nice oldie motor to win...

Happy Boating​

 

[JimS123]

As a total aside to this thread, how do you get such good pictures? Type of camera? MP size? Settings? Lighting?

 

[Sea Rider]

As a total aside to this thread, how do you get such good pictures? Type of camera? MP size? Settings? Lighting?

Thanks, pics are shot at just 2.0 MP with an ultra zoom 52 mm lens traditional digital camera with 16 MP capacity. Pics are shot at P, then tweked, highlighted, resized to usual 1000 x 750 size prior posting , that's why most pics looks nice and colorful aside being extremely light which doesn't exceed 300 KB also accounts for quick on line viewing.

As for lightning use what the natural scene offers, if in need to count with more or less light to cheat the camera sensor play a lot with +,-manual exposure compensation before shooting. It's a matter of knowing your camera well exactly same as your beloved motors...LOL!!

Happy Boating​

 

[Crosbyman]

take a wood peg 1 inch dia. x12 inch or so remove the cyl head and wack the piston firmly try rocking the fw back and forth keep soaking rings are probably just stuck keep soaking with wd40 or pb blaster like juices

 

[Sea Rider]

take a wood peg 1 inch dia. x12 inch or so remove the cyl head and wack the piston firmly try rocking the fw back and forth keep soaking rings are probably just stuck keep soaking with wd40 or pb blaster like juices

Isn't known if the piston it's the only mechanical component that's severely seized, could have both upper and lower crank shaft's bearings and connecting rod severely seized too. WD-40 did nothing aside washing dirt, with removed powerhead this oldie needs a full day long soak in a deep container with brake fluid. Yep was planing a hard whack with a long and wide wooden peg and a heavy duty hammer right in middle piston as seen in post 9, pics 3-4 right after the long brake fluid soak.

Happy Boating​

 

[Crosbyman]

took a week to free up my 9.5hp with the wood peg approach
now sits & runs proudly along it's big brother

 

[Sea Rider]

took a week to free up my 9.5hp with the wood peg approach
now sits & runs proudly along it's big brother

Congrats, but probably not heavily seized as this 2 HP motor. Assume the piston and rings were the only ones that were seized, which product was used for soaking and for how long. Where can I get an Owner's Manual for the 2 HP motor, first motor seeing having 2 slow and high needles ?

Happy Boating​

 

[JimS123]

Where can I get an Owner's Manual for the 2 HP motor, first motor seeing having 2 slow and high needles ?

Happy Boating​

Manuals are readily available going back many years. What is the make and model?

 

[Sea Rider]

Manuals are readily available going back many years. What is the make and model?

2 Stroke 2 HP Evinrude/Johnson motor...



The only number found on the entire motor is this one :

Couldn't find a complete powerhead gasket kit, only spare ones. Do you happen to know which spare parts are included in the carb kit which it's readily available, there's no reference whatsoever in the spare parts list.

Happy Boating
​

 

[racerone]

Remove the plate behind carburetor.------Look at piston / rod / crank bearing / reed valve.-----I think it would be a mistake to buy parts for this " motor "

 

[Sea Rider]

Remove the plate behind carburetor.------Look at piston / rod / crank bearing / reed valve.-----I think it would be a mistake to buy parts for this " motor "

All those mentioned parts were previously removed days ago and still undergoing a WD-40 long soak. It's a mystery to determine which ones are severely seized and which not.​

If the powerhead and the tank's fuel shut valve can't be unlocked would be out of this world to buy other spare parts, many NLA and the ones readily available quite expensive for what they are.

Happy Boating​

 

[JimS123]

I'm guessing its an Evinrude Mate. It obvious that it has been painted. On the port side of the mounting bracket, just aft of the pivot point is where the ID plate should be. Its about 3/4" tall by 2 1/2" long. I can't tell if the plate is there or not. Carefully remove some paint. The numbers are painted on metal, so paint remover might take those off as well. If you find 2 small holes from the rivets, then you'll know that some previous owner wanted to hide the serial number.

Optionally, just above the bolt for the tiller handle on the port side is a disc on the side of the block. The model number will be embossed there. That's the freeze plug and it should not have been painted.