79 35hp evinrude wet plugs

[67-69johnman]

Hi all ,
I recently acquired a 1979 evinrude 35 that hadn't run in about 10 years. I saw it run then actually. Well now that I've acquired It has problems. When I purchased it, the wiring harness was completely corroded. I replaced it with a new one from CDI. I opened the carburetor only to find it looked amazing inside. I didn't have a kit so I didnt pull the welsh plugs or anything but I'm considering it since I now have it off again. Anyway, the issue here is that my carb seems to be fine, I've got good compression in both cylinders and I've got a bright blue spark that will jump a 3/4 inch gap. I also ohmed out the coils and found they were both in spec. At this point I put it all back together and attemped a start up with no luck. There's an issue somewhere between the battery cables and the started because I can only get a slow I'crank with it hooked up to the factory cables. So I'm using jumper cables and a start button until my new solenoid and cables arrive. ANYWAY, when attempting a start even with Spark, Fuel and compression the only thing I end up with is wet spark plugs. The most I can get is a loud backfire after alot of cranking.
I pulled the flywheel to ensure that the key wasn't sheared. It wasn't. I'm thinking it's got to be something to do with my disassembly and reassembly since it did run before sitting for that long and before the wiring was corroded. Any Ideas? I'm stumped!

 

[oldboat1]

Your carb should have a low speed needle on top. To adjust the air/fuel mix, lightly close the needle clockwise, then open 1 1/2 turns. The engine should start with that initial setting, subject to adjustment after the engine warms up (likely a bit leaner -- clockwise).

 

[racerone]

Plug wires are on wrong cylinder or issue with flywheel key.

 

[67-69johnman]

Plug wires are on wrong cylinder or issue with flywheel key.

So, I feel pretty embarrassed...
When I ohmed out the coils I labeled them T for top and B for bottom..

Thanks for the Inspiration.
Also the flywheel key is not sheared if you were wondering. I haven't put it back together yet but I'm guessing it will be a runner now lol
Thanks. The orange wires are long enough to mix them up

 

[67-69johnman]

Okay, all back together and it seems to start and run now just fine but there's a new development.
While I had it apart I replaced the battery cables. The solenoid is not been replaced. When I turn the key it cranks and starts and then immediately blows the inline fuse. There was previously a short 30 amp fuse in the holder. With the new fuse holder it will fit a regular 30 amp buss fuse. Why does this fuse blow? Could it be the solenoid somehow?
I've been through new wiring harness with a fine tooth comb and I don't believe it's shorted anywhere. Also the reason I replaced the battery cables was that I was getting a slow cranking situation when attached through them. (Real pain in the ass to change them btw)

 

[67-69johnman]

Okay, all back together and it seems to start and run now just fine but there's a new development.
While I had it apart I replaced the battery cables. The solenoid is not been replaced. When I turn the key it cranks and starts and then immediately blows the inline fuse. There was previously a short 30 amp fuse in the holder. With the new fuse holder it will fit a regular 30 amp buss fuse. Why does this fuse blow? Could it be the solenoid somehow? Maybe the rectifier?
I've been through new wiring harness with a fine tooth comb and I don't believe it's shorted anywhere. Also the reason I replaced the battery cables was that I was getting a slow cranking situation when attached through them. (Real pain in the ass to change them btw)

 

[racerone]

Left factory with a 20 amp fuse.

 

[rowerowe101]

Okay, all back together and it seems to start and run now just fine but there's a new development.
While I had it apart I replaced the battery cables. The solenoid is not been replaced. When I turn the key it cranks and starts and then immediately blows the inline fuse. There was previously a short 30 amp fuse in the holder. With the new fuse holder it will fit a regular 30 amp buss fuse. Why does this fuse blow? Could it be the solenoid somehow?
I've been through new wiring harness with a fine tooth comb and I don't believe it's shorted anywhere. Also the reason I replaced the battery cables was that I was getting a slow cranking situation when attached through them. (Real pain in the ass to change them btw)

Are you sure the battle cables you replaced are the proper rating for the battery ?

 

[Crosbyman]

typical layout...the fuse feeds the B post on the key which shares it with the selenoid to start but.... reverts to feeding the ACCESSORIES "A" terminal on the key while "ON"

any problem on the accessories distribution . or faulty switch will blow the fuse
ex: bad tach, bad warning buzzers bad whatever.... so if the "bussed" feed wire to the key is not grounded along the way to the key try disconnecting all " accessories" and reconnect them one by one till the fuse blows

repair/replace that bad component

 

[67-69johnman]

Are you sure the battle cables you replaced are the proper rating for the battery ?

Couldn't read the size on the old cables but it looked like #4 to me. I bought this from Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Welding-Battery-Flexible-Terminal-Connectors/dp/B01MD21BCC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=battery%2Bcable&qid=1614614052&sr=8-1&th=1&psc=1

So I guess the short answer is no. The diameter of the wire is the same though my ne ones have a bit higher strand count

 

[67-69johnman]

typical layout...the fuse feeds the B post on the key which shares it with the selenoid to start but.... reverts to feeding the ACCESSORIES "A" terminal on the key while "ON"

any problem on the accessories distribution . or faulty switch will blow the fuse
ex: bad tach, bad warning buzzers bad whatever.... so if the "bussed" feed wire to the key is not grounded along the way to the key try disconnecting all " accessories" and reconnect them one by one till the fuse blows

repair/replace that bad component

Thanks I'll go through all of that. Only thing that got me thinking it might be the rectifier is that it doesn't seem to pop until the engine is running.

 

[Crosbyman]

in the diagram the rectifier does not draw current via the fuse so it is unlikely it would blow the fuse.

the rectifiers feeds +12v to the bat. via the fat post (red) on the selenoid.