Grew 168 restoration

Wes_H

Recruit
Joined
May 19, 2021
Messages
4
Hello,

New to the forum, and boating for that matter. Bought myself a 1990 Grew 168 outboard that needs some love. It sat uncovered for a couple of years, and was then given a motor swap and a remote fuel tank as the onboard tank sat with fuel in it. So far I've pulled the motor off, pulled all the cushions, side panels (the padded ones) and the carpet. Then i realized the transom is rotten, so I just finished hitting all that out and letting it dry. I refurbished the fuel tank - cleaned it off and cleaned it out, and I'm just about to fix the glass that has failed in the cubby (?) Where it sits. One question i have is with respect to the fuel line from the on-board tank. It's got an old 1975 Evinrude 115hp 2 stroke on it. All my searching brings me to the fuel lines for remote tanks with the quick attach fittings. Can I use this type of line? No quick attach on the tank itself but I guess I could cut it and force it on to the fitting there with a hose clamp. I'll post a few pictures of my progress so far. Any feedback is quite welcome. It's my first boat.
 

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KJM

Lieutenant
Joined
Jul 31, 2016
Messages
1,271
Hi. I have a Grew 198 that I'm working on myself. Mine is a 1978 (i think). They were well made back in the 70's, not sure about the 90"s. I hate to say it but very likely all the wood in that boat is rotten and needs to be replaced, from the stringers up. Think about it before you pour too much money into it because its not cheap!
 

Wes_H

Recruit
Joined
May 19, 2021
Messages
4
Hi. I have a Grew 198 that I'm working on myself. Mine is a 1978 (i think). They were well made back in the 70's, not sure about the 90"s. I hate to say it but very likely all the wood in that boat is rotten and needs to be replaced, from the stringers up. Think about it before you pour too much money into it because its not cheap!
The stringers that are exposed; the tops where the glass broke away; seem sturdy. And the one half of the transom is fine. Well more like 1/3. I'm not dumping to much into the boat. I'm going to fix the glass in the fuel tank cubby, as well as in the floor storage compartment and then put a coat of reason on the floor before covering it with some marine paint, and then EVA foam flooring. The interior sidewalls in closing with some left over River roof coating from my RV. The transom I'm going to cut and fit some cardboard, trace onto plywood, double it up seal it with resin. Then place it and then I'm going to pour clear epoxy down from the to before I re-glass the top of the transom itself. I have most everything I need just laying around from other projects. It just needs to work for us. Doesn't have to be fancy.
 

KJM

Lieutenant
Joined
Jul 31, 2016
Messages
1,271
Be careful with the transom. A soft floor is one thing but a soft transom is dangerous. If part of the transom is rotten the the whole thing should be replaced. Most people cut the inside fiberglass layer off and work from there but that looks hard with the splashwell in the way. If you dug out all the wood there are pour in transoms available, not sure about price. Some people cut off the outside layer of fiberglass to get at the rot. I've never done that so I can't comment on if its a good isea for you or how complicated it is. Either way good luck!
 

Wes_H

Recruit
Joined
May 19, 2021
Messages
4
Be careful with the transom. A soft floor is one thing but a soft transom is dangerous. If part of the transom is rotten the the whole thing should be replaced. Most people cut the inside fiberglass layer off and work from there but that looks hard with the splashwell in the way. If you dug out all the wood there are pour in transoms available, not sure about price. Some people cut off the outside layer of fiberglass to get at the rot. I've never done that so I can't comment on if its a good isea for you or how complicated it is. Either way good luck!
I've drilled into the outside where I want able to budge the wood. It wasn't rotten on the one side. And the transom is open underneath the splashwell. I'm a big guy, but I can jusssst squeeze myself in there too get at the material. Once I replace the wood I'll glass it on the inside, under the splashwell, and then once it's dry I'll pour in the clear epoxy resin from the top. It'll be plenty strong. I'll take pics as I go. Thanks for the tips, and the info
 

Wes_H

Recruit
Joined
May 19, 2021
Messages
4
I've drilled into the outside where I want able to budge the wood. It wasn't rotten on the one side. And the transom is open underneath the splashwell. I'm a big guy, but I can jusssst squeeze myself in there too get at the material. Once I replace the wood I'll glass it on the inside, under the splashwell, and then once it's dry I'll pour in the clear epoxy resin from the top. It'll be plenty strong. I'll take pics as I go. Thanks for the tips, and the info
Almost forgot, what about my fuel line question in the original post?
 

todhunter

Canoeist
Joined
Sep 15, 2020
Messages
1,327
You can buy marine fuel hose with either an A1 or A2 rating. Figure out what size you need and google it...lots of places carry it. If I remember, you should use A1 hose from the tank to the engine. You can use either A1 or A2 hose for the vent/fill hoses. I'm pretty sure I just went with A1 for everything. If you ever plan to use fuels with any ethanol blended in, now is the time to make sure you put in hoses that are compatible.
 
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