Hard shifting after new lower cable....sometimes

[jonny rotten]

I replaced the lower shifter cable last year. Immediately after, shifting from forward to neutral would bind up. To try to explain it, it would be like a shock absorber or pushing against an air pocket where it wanted to push back almost bouncy feeling. Like trying to push the inner cable but something was holding it up. Accelerating and decelerating was smooth only happens from idling in gear to neutral
The strange thing is it would only happen occasionally. Usually at the ramp with other boats around giving me a heart attack
Other times (most times almost always) it shifts perfectly smooth. Forward, reverse, in and out of gear...everything fine.
I never had this problem with the old shift cable. The reason for changing it was because it was stiff accelerating which I figured it was rusting on the inside of the cable. Which the new cable fixed.....but never had binding issues like this.

I went through the adjustment procedures on the barrel and think I got it right after I installed the cable. No stalling issues
The shifter shoe moves freely and so does the shifter lever with the bearing on it. I believe the shift interrupter is working correctly. It stalls when I push the wheel in

Before I pull the outdrive off and start messing with things is there something I should look for to see if it's incorrect so I know I corrected the problem?

What would cause intermittent binding to the point something feels like it's going to snap when I forcefully yank it into neural as I'm heading for another boat at the dock?
It may clunk when it finally shifts but I can't remember...possibly not

Could it be the way the cable is routed? I used the old cable as guide but had some issues. It could be routed "not perfect "

 

[dubs283]

I believe the shift interrupter is working correctly. It stalls when I push the wheel in


Could it be the way the cable is routed? I used the old cable as guide but had some issues. It could be routed "not perfect "

guessing this is an mc1, r, mr, alpha, or gen ii based on your shift interrupt test comment

there are a couple different styles of interrupt switch used over the years, sounds like yours is operational but may need slight adjusting, different styles use different adjustments

yes, cable routing is important. check the recently revived thread about cable routing and check yours

lower cable adjustment is 6" between centers in FWD gear, back off four turns unless equipped with shift assist

 

[jonny rotten]

guessing this is an mc1, r, mr, alpha, or gen ii based on your shift interrupt test comment

there are a couple different styles of interrupt switch used over the years, sounds like yours is operational but may need slight adjusting, different styles use different adjustments

yes, cable routing is important. check the recently revived thread about cable routing and check yours

lower cable adjustment is 6" between centers in FWD gear, back off four turns unless equipped with shift assist

Alpha one gen one
It has shift assist with the "shock absorber"
Adjusted exactly to spec. No stalling issues when shifting
Do you have a link to routing thread?

I thought the shift interrupter switch was non adjustable and the adjustments come from the cables? Pretty sure it's just a plate mounted to the engine?

Even if it was out of adjustment wouldn't that be be a stalling issue and wouldn't it happen all the time?
This only happens on occasion and the rest of the time it shifts smoothly. When it's not going into neural it has a definite binding/ blocking feel stopping the throttle from coming back to neutral position.
It feels the like cable can't come out ( or back forget which way) in the outdrive. Which leaves me the think it's something with the shift lever in the outdrive but like I said it only happens occasionally and is tough to diagnose in the driveway

 

[dubs283]

r/mr/alpha one never had the shift assist, that is a gen ii thing

the shift interrupt switch is used to allow the clutch dog to release from the gear in the gearcase, i.e. coming out of gear to neutral. if you are having an issue coming out of gear to neutral the shift interrupt switch is either faulty or misadjusted. there is a slight adjustment for the gen ii push buttong style, older style alphas have a metal arm with a roller ball that can be bent to allow proper switch engagement/timing

sometimes the v-spring on the switch actuator can be faulty, there is an upgrade spring with yellow paint that sometimes helps

i've found the shift assist spring loaded assy sometimes causes more problems than alleviates and have abated the springs inside. try shifting it without the shift assist, could be the source of your issue

 

[ccoon520]

After I replaced mine it was binding pretty bad. What I discovered was that I skipped a step when installing it and did not back off the set screw a 1/4 to 1/2 of a turn to allow for the cable to rotate within the assembly without trying to rotate the arm as well. Also binding may be an issue. Try and follow the outer line and see if it tries to make and hard turns or if it is around something that if jostled in just the wrong way would cause the cable to bind. Last thing is make sure the clamp on you shift bellows isn't too tight. If it was crimped too hard then it would not want to move within its sleeve well.

So if your goal is to avoid pulling the outdrive, I would first check your clamp on the shift bellows and make sure it wasn't over tightened, then your sleeve routing looking for sharp turns or potential hang ups, then the set screw.