2005 Volvo Penta 3.0 GL Dies Out at Idle/Running Rough

mckaras

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I have a 3.0 Volvo Penta GL that is dying out in idle and running rough. The Spark Plugs are new, New mechanical fuel pump, and new Gas. The engine is a REMAN engine with ALL brand new internals.
 

mckaras

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Did someone set the timing?
Yes the timing is set and as far as it running rough I am not sure if the valve lash would have anything to do with it but the valve lash has been adjusted as well.
 

alldodge

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ok, start from the beginning
What distributor is installed and what was the timing set at, and how was it set?
 

alldodge

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You have another thread going listing rich fuel mix. Installing a new distributor will not make it run rich. Most likely the carb got some crud in it and now it flooding. Need to clean/rebuild the carb
 

mckaras

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ok, start from the beginning
What distributor is installed and what was the timing set at, and how was it set?
I would have to check what distributor is installed exactly, it was the original one that was on the engine before. Long story short the engine spun a bearing. Prior to that is was used without any issues.

Timing was set by one of the mechanics I outsource, he turned the engine over until the mark on the crank pulley was aligned with the mark on the engine and turned the distributor until the rotor was pointing at at cylinder 1. He told me that it was still running rough after setting it and was not able to use the shunt to set it into the timing specified by the manual. Hopefully you understand what I am trying to explain.
 

alldodge

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Got it thanks
You have a Delco EST distributor because a shunt is needed.
was not able to use the shunt to set it into the timing specified by the manual.

With it not being set according to the manual, there is no way to get it to run right, other then trial and error. Need to find out why it was not able to be set using the shunt

Either they didn't have the shunt or when connected, it didn't work which would mean the module is defective
 

mckaras

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You have another thread going listing rich fuel mix. Installing a new distributor will not make it run rich. Most likely the carb got some crud in it and now it flooding. Need to clean/rebuild the carb
Understood, I had a rebuild kit ordered in for the carburetor. Would that also contribute to the vibration from the engine as well?
 

alldodge

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Understood, I had a rebuild kit ordered in for the carburetor. Would that also contribute to the vibration from the engine as well?

A motor needs a predetermined amount of fuel and a specific time when the spark plug burns it. Anything outside of that spec can cause issues

Many time vibration could also be other things such as the motor not put together correctly
 

mckaras

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Got it thanks
You have a Delco EST distributor because a shunt is needed.


With it not being set according to the manual, there is no way to get it to run right, other then trial and error. Need to find out why it was not able to be set using the shunt

Either they didn't have the shunt or when connected, it didn't work which would mean the module is defective
They did have the shunt since I ordered one in for them. He told me the engine was running too rough in order to set it according to spec. He mentioned to me that the engine could be running rough from engine misalignment however I pulled the drive and checked alignment again... No binding at all from the alignment bar whatsoever. It slides in with two fingers.
 

mckaras

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A motor needs a predetermined amount of fuel and a specific time when the spark plug burns it. Anything outside of that spec can cause issues

Many time vibration could also be other things such as the motor not put together correctly
Engine was put together according to spec and torqued correctly. I checked it over twice. I only started having the issue from the 3/4th time the engine was run on the hose. Other than that every other time it was started prior to my issue with the distributor it ran without any slight vibrations, misfires, or noises from the engine.
 

alldodge

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Ahhh no
You will not get a vibration from a misalignment. Easy to prove, remove the drive, start the motor with a hose connected to the thermostat housing

You need a real mechanic and not one that just wears a shirt saying they are one

Vibration and misfires is either the carb, ignition components or incorrect assembly (plugs, wires, rotor, cap and incorrect timing, and valves not adjusted correctly)
 

mckaras

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Ahhh no
You will not get a vibration from a misalignment. Easy to prove, remove the drive, start the motor with a hose connected to the thermostat housing

You need a real mechanic and not one that just wears a shirt saying they are one

Vibration and misfires is either the carb, ignition components or incorrect assembly (plugs, wires, rotor, cap and incorrect timing, and valves not adjusted correctly)
Gotcha, that's exactly what I did when I pulled the drive.... Still the same issue. At this point I need to read these damn manuals and start doing the work myself.

On the 3.0 GL timing is something I will have to redo on it before I move onto the cap, rotor, or plug wires. The carburetor I rebuilt and cleaned all the passages through with the carb cleaner, unlikely any of them are blocked again...

The 4.3 GL I have already eliminated the spark plugs, plug wires, distributor. Now I just will need to verify the timing it needs to be set at and move onto the carburetor if the timing is not the issue.

I've owned and worked on a lot of imports but not boats, fairly different but does not seem too complicated. I have the timing shunt and digital timing light. Is there a good write up you can point me to set the timing on the models that need a shunt? It looks like all my Volvo Penta engines have these Delco Distributors and require the shunts to have the timing set.
 

alldodge

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This is for a 4 cyl but same setup for 6 and 8 cyl
Note this is for Merc, so need to see what your VP should be set at

EST Timing.jpg
 

baker556

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You have another thread going listing rich fuel mix. Installing a new distributor will not make it run rich. Most likely the carb got some crud in it and now it flooding. Need to clean/rebuild the carb
Agreed, had this issue on my 3.0 VP - carb rebuild and sorted!

One more thing to check is the risers, if water is getting into the cylinders this will cause rough running.
 

mckaras

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Agreed, had this issue on my 3.0 VP - carb rebuild and sorted!

One more thing to check is the risers, if water is getting into the cylinders this will cause rough running.
I already rebuilt the carb, risers and manifold are solid. It's a low hour fresh water boat. It looks like timing was off!
 

iantuffs

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Spark plugs
The following tables provide spark plug part numbers, spark
plug gap, and installation torque:
Engine Model Gap Torque
3.0 GS 0.045 in. (1.14 mm) 20 ft. lb. (27 N•m)
4.3 GL/GXi 0.060 in. (1.52 mm) 20 ft. lb. (27 N•m)
5.0 GL 0.060 in. (1.52 mm) 20 ft. lb. (27 N•m)
5.0 GXi 0.060 in. (1.52 mm) 20 ft. lb. (27 N•m)
5.7 GL 0.060 in. (1.52 mm) 20 ft. lb. (27 N•m)
5.7 Gi 0.060 in. (1.52 mm) 20 ft. lb. (27 N•m)
5.7 GXi 0.060 in. (1.52 mm) 20 ft. lb. (27 N•m)
8.1 Gi 0.060 in. (1.52 mm) 22 ft. lb. (30 N•m)
8.1 GXi 0.060 in. (1.52 mm) 22 ft. lb. (30 N•m)
DPX375/420 0.060 in. (1.52 mm) 22 ft. lb. (30 N•m)
Engine Model P/N Firing order
3.0 GS 3854399 1–3–4–2
4.3 GL/GXi 3861632 1–6–5–4–3–2
5.0 GL 3861632 1–8–4–3–6–5–7–2
5.0 GXi 3861632 1–8–4–3–6–5–7–2
5.7 GL 3861632 1–8–4–3–6–5–7–2
5.7 Gi 3861632 1–8–4–3–6–5–7–2
5.7 GXi 3861632 1–8–4–3–6–5–7–2
8.1 Gi 3861325 1–8–7–2–6–5–4–3
8.1 GXi 3861325 1–8–7–2–6–5–4–3
DPX375/420 3861325 1–8–7–2–6–5–4–3
Before installing new spark plugs, always check for proper type
and gap (see the table). Incorrect spark plugs can cause operational problems and possible internal engine damage.
Before installing a spark plug, the spark plug seat in the cylinder head should be wiped clean. Tighten plugs to the proper
torque value (see the table above). Make sure the spark plug
terminals are fully seated on the spark plugs.
When spark plug leads are removed, be sure they are replaced
in the correct firing order (see the table ).
DANGER!
· Avoid abusive handling that could crack the spark
plug’s ceramic body. Damaged spark plugs can emit
external sparks that could ignite any fuel vapors in
the engine compartment.
· Do not operate engine if spark plug boots or hightension leads are torn or cracked. This condition could
allow external sparks which could ignite any fuel vapors in the engine compartment, and result in fire or
explosion.
Distributor cap and rotor
Remove, inspect and clean the distributor cap and rotor. Replace these components if worn or damaged with genuine Volvo Penta parts. No other distributor parts require service or replacement.
Be sure spark plug leads are replaced in the correct firing order
(see the table below).
Circuit breakers and fuses
The engine and boat’s electrical system is protected
against current overload by a circuit breaker and fuses.
• If the circuit breaker trips, push its button to reset it.
• Replace any blown fuses.
CAUTION!
Circuit breakers or fuses that repeatedly fail indicate
a problem that requires immediate attention. See your
Volvo Penta dealer.
NOTE! If electrical connections are reversed, or connections removed when the key switch is on
or the engine is running, the electrical system may be damaged immediately.
Maintenance
68 7741591 / 2003-12
Checking and changing spark plugs
1. Twist and pull only on the spark plug wire boot (pulling on
wire may cause separation of the core of the wire).
2. Remove spark plugs using a 5/8-inch spark plug socket or
a 5/8-inch box wrench. Use care to avoid cracking the spark
plug insulators.
3. Carefully inspect the insulators and electrodes of all spark
plugs.
— Replace any spark plug which has a cracked or broken insulator or which has loose electrodes.
— If the insulator is worn away around the center electrode, or the electrodes are burned or worn, the spark
plug is worn out and should be discarded.
— Spark plugs that are in good condition, except for carbon or oxide deposits, should be thoroughly cleaned
and gapped.
The spark plug wires are a special resistance type. The core is
carbon-impregnated linen. This type wire is superior to copper
core wire in its resistance to crossfire; however, it is more easily damaged than copper core. For this reason, pull on the
spark plug boots to remove the spark plug wires, rather than
pulling on the wire insulation. If the wire is stretched, the core
may be broken with no evidence of damage on the outer insulation. If the core is broken, it will cause misfiring. In the case of
wire damage, it is necessary to replace the complete wire assembly since a satisfactory repair cannot be made.
4. Clean ignition wires with a cloth moistened in kerosene,
and wipe dry. Bend wires to check for brittle, cracked or
loose insulation. Defective insulation will permit misfiring, cross-firing, or spark to ground; therefore, defective wires must be replaced.
5. If the wires are in good condition, clean any terminals that
are corroded and replace any that are broken or distorted.
Replace any wires with broken or deteriorated cable nipples
or spark plug boots.
6. Clean spark plugs.
Spark plugs that have carbon or oxide deposits should be
cleaned in a blast type spark plug cleaner. Scraping with a
pointed tool will not properly remove the deposits and may
damage the insulator. If spark plugs have a wet or oily deposit,
dip them in a decreasing solvent and dry thoroughly with compressed air. Oily plugs will cause the cleaning compound to
pack in the shell. Carefully follow the instructions of the manufacturer of the cleaner being used. Clean each plug until the
interior of shell and entire insulator is cleaned. Avoid excessive
blasting.
7. Examine interior of plug in good light. Remove any cleaning compound with compressed air. If traces of carbon or
oxide remain in plug, finish the cleaning with a light blasting operation. Clean firing surfaces of center and side electrodes with several strokes of a fine cut file.
8. When spark plugs have been thoroughly cleaned, carefully inspect them for cracks or other defects that may not
have been visible before cleaning.
9. Use a round wire feeler gauge to check the gap between
the spark plug electrodes. (Flat feeler gauges will not give
a correct measurement if the electrodes are worn.) Adjust
gap by bending the side electrode only. Bending the center electrode will crack the insulator. Setting the spark plug
gap to any other specification in an attempt to improve idle
or affect engine performance is not recommended.
10. See the diagrams for correct installation of spark plugs and
wires.
For proper engine performance it is very important that the correct spark plugs be used. When installing spark plugs, make
sure that the threads in the cylinder
head and all surfaces on plugs and in
cylinder heads are clean. Tighten spark plugs the specified
amount. All engines use tapered seat plugs without gaskets.
Do not operate engine if spark plug boots or high-tension
leads are torn or cracked. This condition can allow external sparks, which could ignite any fuel vapors in the engine compartment.
Spark plug wires must be arranged between the distributor cap
and spark plugs in the order of firing sequence. If spark plug
wires are not correctly installed, misfiring or cross-firing will result.
The 8.1Gi-B/GXi-A and DPX 375/420 engines use a distributorless ignition system with one coil per cylinder. Refer to the
Specifications section for correct firing order.
 
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