Starting circuit

Troubled1

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 2, 2019
Messages
121
Does a 1980 OMC sterndrive have a stater lockout to prevent starting the engine when in gear? I’m working on a 1980 Starcraft with a 140hp with a no crank issue. If I jump the “S” terminal to battery power the engine will crank. The prop spins with it as it appears to be in gear even with the selection the neutral position. I’m thinking the previous owner may have removed the lower gear case and installed it wrong and now it seem to be stuck in forward gear. Is that possible?
 

Redrig

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Oct 13, 2009
Messages
860
Yeah , there is a neutral safety switch in the controller to prevent starting while in gear. Yours appears to be toast.

And Fyi , the prop will usually spin a little even in neutral when running it in the driveway .

With the engine off , can you spin the prop by hand or is there resistance ?
 

Troubled1

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 2, 2019
Messages
121
Yeah , there is a neutral safety switch in the controller to prevent starting while in gear. Yours appears to be toast.

And Fyi , the prop will usually spin a little even in neutral when running it in the driveway .

With the engine off , can you spin the prop by hand or is there resistance ?
Thanks. I figured it out finally. I’m used the outboard control boxes with neutral being in the 12 o’clock position. On this boat 10:30-11:00 o’clock is neutral. I held the key in the start position, plugs removed and grounded to the block. Slowly moved the throttle forward and the starter worked. I felt a click and realized I was a little presumptuous.
Before doing any of this I could not spin the prop. It would only move the amount the ball gear setup would allow. Now that I actually found neutral, I can easily spin it in either direction.
now on to the next issue of the trim and tilt not working. I toggle the tilt in/out and only get clicking. I push the trim button on the throttle and again, only clicking. I have noticed the pretty much every wire connection that has a nut, ie; coil, starter solenoid, tilt solenoid etc, is very corroded. That will be step 1. If that doesn’t fix it I’ll try jump the power and bypass the relay momentarily.
even if I have to put a few hundred into the boat it’ll still be worth it. I only paid $500 for it on a roller trailer and so far I’m pretty impressed with the shape it is in.
 

Troubled1

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 2, 2019
Messages
121
Another question. The boat is a 1980 with the 3.0L. There is a pcv valve on the valve cover but I can’t figure out where to attach the hose. Did this year run in to manifold vacuum or a fitting on the carburetor base? My brother has a 93 Glaston and his has a fitting on the spark arrester. Mine has nothing like that.
 

kenny nunez

Captain
Joined
Jun 20, 2017
Messages
3,335
I is just supposed to vent to the flame arrestor. The fitting you are looking at is supposed to be a empty PCV, did you pull it and inspect it?
Is there voltage to the bus bars that link the relays together? There is a fuse near the starter that is sealed in some brown epoxy with a red #10 wire going to the relays. If it is burned out you can replace it with a fused link wire of around 30 amps. NAPA has them.
 

Troubled1

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 2, 2019
Messages
121
I is just supposed to vent to the flame arrestor. The fitting you are looking at is supposed to be a empty PCV, did you pull it and inspect it?
Is there voltage to the bus bars that link the relays together? There is a fuse near the starter that is sealed in some brown epoxy with a red #10 wire going to the relays. If it is burned out you can replace it with a fused link wire of around 30 amps. NAPA has them.
There was a 50a fuse by the starter that was blown. Nobody around here had a 5AG 50 so I picked up a 60a maxi fuse holder and a 50a fuse. Spliced, soldered and shrink tubing on it. The relays all click but look like they need all the terminals cleaned really badly. I’m going to try get it to start before I spend time getting the tilt and trim systems working. If the motor is bad, working trim and tilt don’t help me very much. The fuel line was all dried and cracked coming from the tank. I cut a new line to length but will draw fresh fuel from a separate container to eliminate bad/old fuel. I pulled hoses, filled with water and am just setting up the muffs. I have a small spray bottle with gas in it to squirt down the throat of the carb. I also have a fire extinguisher at the ready. Can never be too cautious.
 

kenny nunez

Captain
Joined
Jun 20, 2017
Messages
3,335
Check the output side of the solenoids when you trigger them. They never did last very long. They should be non grounded style and marine spec.
I forgot exactly when the fuses were changed to the large glass style.
You are going about it the right way, the engine may check good.
 

Troubled1

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 2, 2019
Messages
121
Check the output side of the solenoids when you trigger them. They never did last very long. They should be non grounded style and marine spec.
I forgot exactly when the fuses were changed to the large glass style.
You are going about it the right way, the engine may check good.
If the relays are bad I may switch to continuous duty equipment solenoids like we use on airport ground equipment.
 
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