Lower Shift Cable Adjustment - Am I doing it right?

[Twhjelmgren28]

Just finishing up a gimbal and bell housing rebuild on a Mercruiser 120 - alpha one gen 1.

I've been using mercstuff.com to help me adjust the lower shift cable. I think I've got it but I'm getting a clicking noise and some resistance in the reverse position. Here is what's happening:

Shifted to neutral
-Smooth prop turning both directions
-No clicking

Shifted to forward
-Smooth prop turning clockwise and stops counter
-Barely audible clicking in clockwise

Shifted to reverse
-Some resistance when prop turning counter clockwise and stops clockwise
-Louder audible clicking

With that said, it seems that when shifting in neutral and forward, the prop is operating fine but in reverse there is a bit more resistance and louder clicking. In reading other threads, it sounds like the clicking may be normal; it just seems odd that it's happening more in reverse than in forward.

I've done several adjustments on the lower shift cable (in conjunction with the upper shift cable and it seems like this is the best I can get it from a smoothness standpoint. Does this sound right?

 

[Twhjelmgren28]

Thought I would add that when pulling the shift cable outward by hand: at the point that the the prop stops clockwise, it is already making a fairly loud ratcheting sound when rotating counterclockwise. Here are 2 videos showing where I'm at with adjustments:

View attachment VID_20210806_145430162.mp4

View attachment VID_20210806_145500251.mp4

 

[achris]

 

[Bt Doctur]

Locked in F and R , sounds ok

 

[Twhjelmgren28]

Locked in F and R , sounds ok

So I had it all set - out of the water - I then reset it with the above video and it seemed to be good. Then this morning, I went out and checked it (still out of the water) and it doesn't seem to be set anymore.

Is the issue that I'm testing out of the water?

Or is it possible that I just went too cheap on the cable? I bought the cable set off of ebay so maybe that's my problem...

 

[flashback]

Go with the video, if you have a need for the assist then setup is a bit different. I just did this an took the assist off. If you feel a need to keep it then adjust the remote cable to fit the assist. I pitched the assist..
I'm not a tech, but it works

 

[achris]

.... I pitched the assist..

 

[Twhjelmgren28]

Go with the video, if you have a need for the assist then setup is a bit different. I just did this an took the assist off. If you feel a need to keep it then adjust the remote cable to fit the assist. I pitched the assist..
I'm not a tech, but it works

Thanks for the tip! Mine does not have the shift assist - thankfully that's one less headache for now. I ended up ordering the OEM cable - I'm going to scrap my current one because I can't seem to get it adjusted correctly and the rod that screws into the sheath ended up stripping.

Maybe you guys can help me understand something. I've been combing through the manual and I think I understand the instructions better now. One thing that confuses me is that you're supposed to put the shift lever into wide open throttle when you set the upper shift cable. Wouldn't we want it to shift once it hits the detent in the shifting motion? In other words, it should shift before wide open throttle - I guess it just confuses me that we don't shift to the detent / pause point in the shifting motion and then set the cables...

 

[achris]

Adjust the lower shift cable (as per the manual or my video)... Put drive into forward (maximum travel before the interrupt switch trips). Put the remote control into forward, full throttle. Adjust the barrel until it fits perfectly, then back it off 4 turns. Fit the cable to the studs and check for proper reverse engagement. Adjust stud in the slotted hole accordingly.... It's all in the video..

Chris.

 

[flashback]

You have to establish a base point to work from, forward gear is a good place to start. The detent on the remote is not a place to measure from, that's why the slot is there, to adjust for slop in the remote.

 

[achris]

...I guess it just confuses me that we don't shift to the detent / pause point in the shifting motion and then set the cables...

Using the detent as the reference point could lead to over or under stroking of the system. Over stroke and you'll trip the interrupt switch at full throttle. Under-stroke and you may not have enough engagement at maximum power (WOT) to stop the dogs flying apart (dropping out of gear at a rather inopportune moment ).

Using wide open in forward as the starting reference point eliminates those scenarios.

HTH

Chris.......

 

[Twhjelmgren28]

You have to establish a base point to work from, forward gear is a good place to start. The detent on the remote is not a place to measure from, that's why the slot is there, to adjust for slop in the remote.

Using the detent as the reference point could lead to over or under stroking of the system. Over stroke and you'll trip the interrupt switch at full throttle. Under-stroke and you may not have enough engagement at maximum power (WOT) to stop the dogs flying apart (dropping out of gear at a rather inopportune moment ).

Using wide open in forward as the starting reference point eliminates those scenarios.

HTH

Chris.......

Thanks guys - that's super helpful. Also, the video is awesome, Chris! Part of my problem is I had already screwed it up by the time your video was posted.

One small follow-up question (then I'm done I promise). After going through the procedure in your video / manual; is it possible to test it on land by putting the remote control in the detents for each direction and checking that the prop stops in the expected direction? Or is that not a good way to check that it's working properly.

 

[AShipShow]

Thanks guys - that's super helpful. Also, the video is awesome, Chris! Part of my problem is I had already screwed it up by the time your video was posted.

One small follow-up question (then I'm done I promise). After going through the procedure in your video / manual; is it possible to test it on land by putting the remote control in the detents for each direction and checking that the prop stops in the expected direction? Or is that not a good way to check that it's working properly.

Yes, shift cable adjustment can totally be done on land (just like in the video)... The main (maintenance) things that should be done in the water is checking reverse cutout switch as well as any idle speed adjustment type stuff because you need a load on the prop for those things to be set properly.

 

[Twhjelmgren28]

Yes, shift cable adjustment can totally be done on land (just like in the video)... The main (maintenance) things that should be done in the water is checking reverse cutout switch as well as any idle speed adjustment type stuff because you need a load on the prop for those things to be set properly.

I know I can do the procedure and everything on land. I was just wondering if being in the detents on the remote control after doing the procedure should cause the prop to stop CW for reverse and CCW for forward, or is that not a great way to judge whether it's adjusted correctly.

 

[achris]

I know I can do the procedure and everything on land. I was just wondering if being in the detents on the remote control after doing the procedure should cause the prop to stop CW for reverse and CCW for forward, or is that not a great way to judge whether it's adjusted correctly.

Yes.

I also check what I call 'depth of engagement'. How much 'rock' is on the prop in forward and reverse. That is, how much can the prop be rotated between the lock point (CW for reverse, CCW in forward) and the contract with the dog clutch ramps the other way. The less the better.. I also check if the clutch will 'slip' after locking up (a function of depth of engagement) by putting as much force on the prop against the clutch as I can (CW for reverse, CCW for forward). Just make sure you're ready for it if it does slip

Edit: if I have time in the next few days I'll make a video on how to check this.

 

[achris]

..Edit: if I have time in the next few days I'll make a video on how to check this.

Sorry guys. The gearbox in my car (100 series Landcruiser) took a dump. I spent the afternoon pulling it out. Seized solid!

 

[Twhjelmgren28]

Sorry guys. The gearbox in my car (100 series Landcruiser) took a dump. I spent the afternoon pulling it out. Seized solid!

No worries - appreciate all the help you've already given! Hope the car gets straightened out.