Craigslist /marketplace or junkyard for donor motor?

[timharper89]

Looking for a "new" 4.3 vortec to replace my current non vortec with a knock. I can get one from a pull apart for around $200 with a 30 day warranty that I have to pull myself. Or I can get one already pulled from a variety of private sellers for around $350-400. I'm not going to pretend I'm excited about pulling a motor from a junkyard truck. Seems like a lot of work, but having a warranty sounds nice. Any thoughts or opinions about this? How difficult are the 4.3s to pull from a blazer /jimmy /s10? I've read getting some of the books out is a pain and I have to drop the transmission as well. Anyone know what tools I would need to take with me? I don't exactly want to lug my 75 pound toolbox through the yard, but maybe I should?
Assuming the already pulled motor from a private seller has the accessories, I should be able to do a compression check, right? Compression and oil and block condition are really the only things that matter since spark coming from my old 4.3 and I'll need a new intake and carb for the vortec. Right?

For pervious conversion about the swap, the thread is here.

 

[matt167]

Done it many times. What I would do is pull the engine/ trans as one unit. The trans crossmember will un bolt, and then pull the whole thing up and out.. Cut the core support/ remove radiator if you can... Once it's out and on the ground, just zip the bell housing bolts off and slide it apart. The torque converter will be left on the flex plate but it's easy to remove at that point if you really need to.. Yes pulling it apart like that breaks the transmission pump usually, but it is a dead 4L60E anyway

 

[timharper89]

Done it many times. What I would do is pull the engine/ trans as one unit. The trans crossmember will un bolt, and then pull the whole thing up and out..

Transmission up and out through the engine compartment? That seems....not easy lol
Any nonstandard tools I would need?

 

[RaceCarRich]

Remember in a junkyard you just cut hoses, wires, etc. No worries about damaging a radiator if it’s even still in donor vehicle. Take hood off if it’s still there.
Cordless impact gun & a length of old rug or cardboard would be helpful.

 

[timharper89]

Remember in a junkyard you just cut hoses, wires, etc. No worries about damaging a radiator if it’s even still in donor vehicle. Take hood off if it’s still there.

Not terribly worried about damaging the vehicle. More worried about the time /access to the fasteners.

Cordless impact gun & a length of old rug or cardboard would be helpful.

Cardboard to lay on the ground?

 

[RaceCarRich]

Yep, to lay on.

When you don’t have to worry about damaging a vehicle, it takes much less time. You just make access to fasteners by prying or smashing anything in the way. Even a cordless reciprocating saw can help for things like an exhaust pipe.

Or ask the yard for a price for them to pull-it. Those guys will cut the engine out in no time.

 

[matt167]

Transmission up and out through the engine compartment? That seems....not easy lol
Any nonstandard tools I would need?

Nope.. At the yard I go to, they bring a wheel loader and can lift very high in the air.. plucks them right out. If you can use a cordless saws all to cut the rad support, it will slide right out the front

 

[Scott Danforth]

you dont want any automotive accessories (you cant use them)

you only want a long block (short block and heads) as you need the marine accessories, rotating electrics and ignition system.

you will need to buy a new intake as your non-vortec intake wont work on a vortec headed motor.

if you have an LKQ near you, there pre-pulled engines are not much more than a pull your own price.

 

[timharper89]

Nope.. At the yard I go to, they bring a wheel loader and can lift very high in the air.. plucks them right out. If you can use a cordless saws all to cut the rad support, it will slide right out the front

So the loader pulls them both right up and out? I don't know what they use here. I have a several yards to choose from. I assumed they would have a cherry pocket I would have to use. Speaking of, I don't have a cherry picker. Are there places that rent them out or will I have to buy one?

 

[timharper89]

you dont want any automotive accessories (you cant use them)

you only want a long block (short block and heads) as you need the marine accessories, rotating electrics and ignition system.

Yeah. Didn't plan on using them. If it all comes with, I figured I would sell them.

you will need to buy a new intake as your non-vortec intake wont work on a vortec headed motor.

The intake and carb are going to be the high dollar items. Hard to find them used here right now. As far as carbs, any 4bbl marine carb will do with a 4bbl intake? I wondered about getting a 2bbl intake and just using my carb. $400+ seems like a lot for what I'm trying to do. Going from non vortec to vortec should be a power boost, right?

if you have an LKQ near you, there pre-pulled engines are not much more than a pull your own price.

I do have a few near me, but I don't know the pulled prices. Lkq online has them, but they are closer to $1000.

 

[Scott Danforth]

The intake and carb are going to be the high dollar items. Hard to find them used here right now. As far as carbs, any 4bbl marine carb will do with a 4bbl intake? I wondered about getting a 2bbl intake and just using my carb. $400+ seems like a lot for what I'm trying to do. Going from non vortec to vortec should be a power boost, right?

very little benefit going to vortec heads and keeping a 2-barrel.

sort of like trying to run a marathon while breathing thru a straw.

(also very little cost difference in the intake)

if you are planning on keeping the 2-barrel, save money, just rebuild what you have.

 

[timharper89]

very little benefit going to vortec heads and keeping a 2-barrel.

sort of like trying to run a marathon while breathing thru a straw.

(also very little cost difference in the intake)

if you are planning on keeping the 2-barrel, save money, just rebuild what you have.

Couldn't I use my non vortec heads(assuming they are good) on a vortec engine and just use the short block from the vortec? Will any 4bbl marine carb work on a 4bbl intake or are there different fits?

Is an old boat that we were planning on upgrading from soon anyway, so cost is important, but if putting more power in it makes us happier for longer, it could be worth the investment.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Couldn't I use my non vortec heads(assuming they are good) on a vortec engine and just use the short block from the vortec? Will any 4bbl marine carb work on a 4bbl intake or are there different fits?

Is an old boat that we were planning on upgrading from soon anyway, so cost is important, but if putting more power in it makes us happier for longer, it could be worth the investment.

the only benefit of a "vortec" block is the vortec heads

the downside is the electric fuel pump (yes, the mechanical pumps are superior to electric)

all 4.3's from 1988 on were rollers (roller cam)

so yes. you could put your non-vortec heads on a 1996 and later block. however upgrading the heads is the primary reason to do so.

if you want to take advantage of the vortec heads, then suggest you go with a 600-650 cfm 4-barrel to go along with them.

 

[timharper89]

the only benefit of a "vortec" block is the vortec heads

And the availability of motors

the downside is the electric fuel pump (yes, the mechanical pumps are superior to electric)

I currently have an electric pump. I had a headache when I bought the boat a few years ago, so that's covered.

all 4.3's from 1988 on were rollers (roller cam)

Mine is from 1987 s/n 0B459735 not sure what cam it uses

so yes. you could put your non-vortec heads on a 1996 and later block. however upgrading the heads is the primary reason to do so.

I'm still undecided what I want to do. I need a new block or to rebuild mine due to a knock that developed. Replacing seems to be the cheapest and easiest option. Vortec motors are much easier to come by than non vortec motors, so that's why I am considering just saving $900 and using my current heads, intake, and carb. The upgrade will always be available, and I'll already have the heads. It doesn't seem too complicated of a swap, unbolt and bolt parts, tune carb, etc.

if you want to take advantage of the vortec heads, then suggest you go with a 600-650 cfm 4-barrel to go along with them.

The extra hp does seem nice though. The boat was a bit sluggish before, but I was told maybe I need to prop down to get more at the top of my rpm range instead of the middle, and that would help performance a lot.

 

[Scott Danforth]

vortec block with your existing heads/intake/carb is no additional power

vortec heads and 4-barrel intake/carb is about 35-40hp on the 4.3

 

[Faztbullet]

Better to find a old rotten hull or accident one and pull motor..CL or Facebook marketplace.

 

[nola mike]

Better to find a old rotten hull or accident one and pull motor..CL or Facebook marketplace.

No way. A marine engine takes way more abuse than an auto. You find a smooshed truck and chances are the engine is ok. Took me 3 hours to pull the engine, I didn't have the special tool needed to pull the radiator fan. Also, I found a manual transmission that had the transmission already pulled which helped. No other special tools.

 

[Scott Danforth]

No way. A marine engine takes way more abuse than an auto. You find a smooshed truck and chances are the engine is ok. Took me 3 hours to pull the engine, I didn't have the special tool needed to pull the radiator fan. Also, I found a manual transmission that had the transmission already pulled which helped. No other special tools.

could have just unbolted the automotive circulating pump, as it should not be used with raw water cooled engine. then you dont have the fan or the pump

 

[nola mike]

could have just unbolted the automotive circulating pump, as it should not be used with raw water cooled engine. then you dont have the fan or the pump

Issue was with clearing the radiator/shroud. Don't remember exactly was catching it at the rear, but it wouldn't lift straight out. 3 hours from arrival to leaving I didn't think was bad.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Issue was with clearing the radiator/shroud. Don't remember exactly was catching it at the rear, but it wouldn't lift straight out. 3 hours from arrival to leaving I didn't think was bad.

I have had much worse......