Mercruiser 3.0 Overheat stop working

[Orlando Sea Ray]

Hello fellows, I'm New here.
I just bought a Sea Ray 180 1999 with a Mercruiser 3.0.
It was running on the Water and overheated till turns off itself. Now It won't tur on (it tryes but it can't).
I think it's probably one of the push rods that could be bend and it's not able to open the valve as it should.
Can you guys recommended me a part number kit and a manual I can use to replace the rods and make bring it to live again?

Thank you in advance.

 

[poconojoe]

Too general of a question.

In order for anyone to diagnose your problem, you will need to provide more details about exactly what has occurred and exactly how it is currently behaving.
Is it cranking? Is it seized? Is there a spark? Is it getting fuel? Is it hydro-locked? What is the condition of your starting battery? Too much to ask.

The serial number for your engine is also needed for identification purposes. That engine is very popular and was manufactured in many configurations over the years.
Marine engines are not identified by the year and make like most land vehicles, we need the serial number.

An overheated condition is way more detrimental with a marine engine compared to your land vehicles.
I expect you have more damage than you think.

What makes you think there's a bent push rod? Just wondering....

I'm no expert, but provide more information and hopefully the experts here can help you get through this.

 

[alldodge]

Hello fellows, I'm New here.
I just bought a Sea Ray 180 1999 with a Mercruiser 3.0.
It was running on the Water and overheated till turns off itself. Now It won't tur on (it tryes but it can't).
I think it's probably one of the push rods that could be bend and it's not able to open the valve as it should.
Can you guys recommended me a part number kit and a manual I can use to replace the rods and make bring it to live again?

Thank you in advance.

Sounds like the motor was run until it overheated and seized up?
If that's the case, then as joe mentioned, we need a serial number

 

[Orlando Sea Ray]

Too general of a question.

In order for anyone to diagnose your problem, you will need to provide more details about exactly what has occurred and exactly how it is currently behaving.
Is it cranking? Is it seized? Is there a spark? Is it getting fuel? Is it hydro-locked? What is the condition of your starting battery? Too much to ask.

The serial number for your engine is also needed for identification purposes. That engine is very popular and was manufactured in many configurations over the years.
Marine engines are not identified by the year and make like most land vehicles, we need the serial number.

An overheated condition is way more detrimental with a marine engine compared to your land vehicles.
I expect you have more damage than you think.

What makes you think there's a bent push rod? Just wondering....

I'm no expert, but provide more information and hopefully the experts here can help you get through this.

The engine is cranking, there's spark on the spark plugs and fue on the carburator.

It sounds like it's trying to turn on, but some times it sounds like it try to turn in the opposite way,

I moved timing a little bit (I marked the original position) but that didn't work either.

What I think is, there's at least one vale that is not opening or closing complete and that won't let the engine to start.

Tha serial number on the engine: OC677039

 

[Reserector_]

If you had the plug wires off of the distributor, you may have put them back on in the opposite order. I did that once and it acted as you described.

 

[Orlando Sea Ray]

I didn't take those off...

 

[Reserector_]

Are you sure it overheated? Maybe it was something like an ignition module going bad.

 

[alldodge]

Thanks for the SN 0C677039
The number comes up as a 1987 thru 1989. If thru then motor was replaced with an older one since your post listing a 1999

The 1989 could have 2 different distributors (points or DDIS), but since you didn't mention anything special about the dizzy, I would figure its points.

Check for voltage on the + side of the coil with the key ON. It should be around 9V. When the motor is cranking it should be 12V

If voltage is there, check for spark by holding the coil or plug wire close to ground when cranking.

If no spark check that to points open and close as the dizzy turns while cranking.

If you get spark, check for carb squirts fuel when throttle is pumped

 

[Reserector_]

My '93 engine was swapped for an '82, but the EST ignition was retained. Yours may be the same situation.
Does your distributor look like this; with two flat connectors at the bottom?
Does your coil look like the one in this pic with the two grey connectors, or is it a cylindrical, bottle-shaped coil?
(Just trying to help verify which ignition you have.)

 

[Scott06]

I didn't take those off...

Start with a compression test. how long was it hot and how hot did it get. May have smoked something electrical. If you need to check for bent pushrods just remove the valve cover, but if it got hot a vlave is probably hung up and why the pushrod is bent.
the DDIS all dogde speak of is obvious because it has four separate coils and no distributor . Unfortunately most parts for the DDIS are no longer available.

 

[Rick Stephens]

Start with a compression test. how long was it hot and how hot did it get. May have smoked something electrical. If you need to check for bent pushrods just remove the valve cover, but if it got hot a vlave is probably hung up and why the pushrod is bent.
the DDIS all dogde speak of is obvious because it has four separate coils and no distributor . Unfortunately most parts for the DDIS are no longer available.

Exactly. Don't guess that valves aren't opening - pull the valve cover and look at them while cranking.