Intermittent water

racerone

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 28, 2013
Messages
38,674
No plugged up water passages in my area !!------There are a lot of water pump repair kits these days that are made from ---" playdonium " ----in a far away place.----I only use factory water pump parts.-----Or perhaps there is an issue with the water diverters in the water jackets on this motor !
 

Sea Rider

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Sep 20, 2008
Messages
12,345
According to the OP : Pulled the lower unit and checked the pump and impeller. Both seemed like new since it was operated only a few hours since the pump was new. Was the WP an OEM or alternative cheaper one ?

To rule out if the water pump it's doing its homework right or not, pull the lower unit and submerge it in a deep bucket filled with water, hook a drill machine to the drive shaft's splines, must turn CW at speed, check if there's a good water flow comming out the WP's upper grommet. If all is OK, that motor has built too much salt or scale crap inside over the years
while boating in salt or fresh water escenarios which will be good to know which ?

Happy Boating
 

Rootguitars

Cadet
Joined
Jan 26, 2022
Messages
22
Plugged-Up it's much different than non clogged reduced water passages scenarios. Boating in good clean water will produce scale, lime deposits over the years due to : Porous water passages and hundreds of constant ON/Off heating cooling cycles the motor will need to run with.

It's the same as the scale, lime, crap found at the bottom of water boilers, your beloved coffee maker machine. The OP has already checked the water pump condition, it's the same as cleaning the carb severeal times in a row, once impeccabe cleaned why would you want to tear it appart again....

Years back bought an Evi from a seller who swore by Neptune that his motor was in 100% running shape, overheated 2 days latter running wot due to reduced salted water passages....

Happy Boating
Thanks so much for the replies. This motor is new to me. I put it on a self made 15’ lobster style Alaska yellow cedar boat. When I bought the boat the impeller was toast so I replaced the whole pump (with a kit). I tested the boat and motor in a fresh water lake and got it all operating pretty well. That was just two or three months ago. The cooling system seemed to worked well. Just I put the motor in a barrel a couple of days ago. The tell tale showed no water, just steam. I let it run about two minutes. I pulled the lower unit off and took apart the pump. All looked new. Before it was re-assembled I applied a water hose to the lower end of the water tube and water flowed freely coming out all the places it should. After reassembly the Pee tube showed a good flow. It was run for 15minutes or so. The next day the motor was again started and nothing from the pee tube. After some advice from the forum the cylinder head cover was removed. The thermostat is toast and am waiting for a new one and the gasket. I went ahead and pulled the head as well. The head gasket was not damaged but of course a new one is coming. The water chambers look very clean, no salt in evidence. I can’t see the stuck thermostat being the cause of the pump not pumping.
 

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Sea Rider

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Sep 20, 2008
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Will be good to remove the exhaust side covers as well and check their water passages condition, will need to order and reinstall new gaskets too. Was the cylinder head area found light, medium light or highly carboned up ?

Happy Boating
 

Rootguitars

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Jan 26, 2022
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Will be good to remove the exhaust side covers as well and check their water passages condition, will need to order and reinstall new gaskets too. Was the cylinder head area found light, medium light or highly carboned up ?

Happy Boating
Light to medium carbon. And a good idea to pull the exhaust side covers. I’ll do that today. This is my second ever outboard. The first one was a used 30 hp Evinrude. My wife and I built a fifty foot steel cutter rigged sailing vessel and sailed it 32,000 miles. The 30 hp was the dinghy motor which was used without any trouble for 7 years. Our cruising lasted seven years from the 1995 to 2002. I want to get this one as reliable as the old one, but now on a fixed income.
 
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Rootguitars

Cadet
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Jan 26, 2022
Messages
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Light to medium carbon. And a good idea to pull the exhaust side covers. I’ll do that today. This is my second ever outboard. The first one was a used 30 hp Evinrude. My wife and I built a fifty foot steel cutter rigged sailing vessel and sailed it 32,000 miles. The 30 hp was the dinghy motor which was used without any trouble for 7 years. Our cruising lasted seven years from the 1995 to 2002. I want to get this one as reliable as the old one, but now on a fixed income.
 

Sea Rider

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Sep 20, 2008
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When doing complete motor restorations I usually manually clean all water passages and manually scrape clean carbon built up formations on the cylinder head, combustion chambers, exhaust chamber. Install new gaskets, t-stat, spark plugs, new gear oil to count with a motor that has nothing to envy to a new one out of the box...

Happy Boating
 

Rootguitars

Cadet
Joined
Jan 26, 2022
Messages
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When doing complete motor restorations I usually manually clean all water passages and manually scrape clean carbon built up formations on the cylinder head, combustion chambers, exhaust chamber. Install new gaskets, t-stat, spark plugs, new gear oil to count with a motor that has nothing to envy to a new one out of the box...

Happy Boating
I do thank you for your input.
 

Sea Rider

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Sep 20, 2008
Messages
12,345
Forgot to ask, when performing all the corrective maintenance will it be done with the powerhead bolted to the pan or plan removing it, there are water passages located under the powerhead and pan that must be also inspected, cleaned. Will have direct access to the exhaust ports to decarbon them well along all the previously mentioned parts, once done apply marine grease to the drive shaft's splines before the powerhead sits back on pan. Will need to order a new lower powerhead/base gasket as well. BTW, Congrats nice looking boat...

Happy Boating
 
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