CD-20R

[bwkre]

Recently picked up a 63 Johnson CD-20R. First time I saw it was in 1999, and it hasn't moved since then till the owner finally decided to part with it. It hasn't run for at least 23 years.
Hung it on a stand for a few days then drained the lower unit, maybe 1/2 oz of clear water came out first. Rest of the oil looked fairly clear. Looks as if it ingested a bit of braided fishing line through the prop seal. Held a 15psi pressure test for over 12 hours.
Compression on both cylinders at 90 psi. Pulled the power head to check the water pump and most likely reseal the lower unit. There was no lower bearing seal yet all the other parts were there. Looks to be some wear on the driveshaft to crank plate as shown. Or should it be concaved?
Any possible damage from running without the lower seal?

Also noted the bearing in the lower unit has a couple of dimple marks. I'm assuming that's from someone trying to assemble it incorrectly as the housing has a pin that should be located in the bearing groove. Correct?

Thanks for any help / suggestions.

 

[F_R]

The seal under the powerhead is vitally important. It keeps water out of the crankcase. Needless to say, water ingestion into the crankcase will over time destroy the internal parts. No telling how yours looks inside after obviously running for a long time without the carbon seal. Yes, the stainless plate is supposed to be flat.

Yep, somebody failed to align the dowel pin with the forward gear bushing.

 

[racerone]

^^^^^ Agreed with above post.-----And have a look at the ignition coils through the flywheel.-----Perhaps coils are cracked.

 

[bwkre]

^^^^^ Agreed with above post.-----And have a look at the ignition coils through the flywheel.-----Perhaps coils are cracked.

Thanks for the response, flywheel is off and indeed both coils are cracked.
I don't want to spend any money if there is internal damage so I guess the next step would be to split the case and have a look. I didn't purchase it so there is no investment yet.

 

[Crosbyman]

Held a 15psi pressure test for over 12 hours.

if the water was clear not rusty and pressuretest was ok
why not just refill with oil and run a while after you fix up the electricals, impeller , points condensers and plug wires...and carbon seal ( a spare SS washer above the new carbon seal may work ) install new Oring on the drive shaft

reinspect the oil after a few weeks. use new nylon washers
some folks just change the oil mid season.

 

[bwkre]

I decided to split the crankcase and have a look inside. Very clean no signs of rust on any parts. But it appears there is some play in one of the piston / wrist pin/ connecting rod assemblies. After rotating the head just past tdc I can push the piston slightly with a screw driver through the spark plug hole. Rotating the crank back and forth creates a clicking sound on one set just before or after tdc. ( found this before I split the case)
Not sure I want to invest that much money into a 60 year old motor as it also needs,
coils
points
condensers
complete water pump kit
carbon seal & ss washer & gasket
lower seal kit
fuel lines
probably a carb kit

Investment to date - about 5 hours ( of enjoyment )

 

[racerone]

Did a 59 model 5.5 HP for the grandson-----Installed a brand new factory 6 hp crankshaft along with newer rods with needle bearings.-----If you approach this job the right way it will be a sweet runner.----Cheaper to own than some new motors.

 

[Crosbyman]

As you know, restoring oldies is a hobby and hobbies cost $$ and time...but the satisfaction you get getting them restored after 50-60 years is very addictive.
the costs are frequently less than taxes on a new motor and CD's are simply great fishing motors along with AD's (7.5)

at 72 my snowblower and oldies keep me sane in winter months

the folks at AOMCI "ask a member" can also answer all your question
that page posted in post #5 is from the 400 page bible Johnson manual red book

 

[bwkre]

As you know, restoring oldies is a hobby and hobbies cost $$ and time...but the satisfaction you get getting them restored after 50-60 years is very addictive.
the costs are frequently less than taxes on a new motor and CD's are simply great fishing motors along with AD's (7.5)

I like the old motors, simple and easy to work on.
I parted with 3 last year to by a brand new 4 stroke 9.9
Had a 76 evinrude 25hp, 76 evinrude 9.9 and my favorite
a 61 evinrude 18hp. Did lots of work to all 3 of them.
Miss the power and sound of the 18hp.

So this 5.5 isn't a necessity, but could turn into a winter project.
Lord knows our winters are long enough for it!
Thanks for the responses.

 

[Crosbyman]

working on a 5.5 and a 10 hp mid 50,s got me hooked on the hobby

a really good book which explains these oldies is CHEAP OUTBOARDS by Max E. Wawrzniak ISBN# 978-1-891369-62-9 published by Consortium

https://www.amazon.ca/Cheap-Outboards-Beginners-Making-Forever/dp/1891369628

it covers carbs , impeller swaps, CD -AD power head removal (easy) for replacing impellers, converting to fuel pumps for pre 60'S cd ad qd fd etc...
magneto repairs coils points condensers etc...