78/79 johnson 85hp tilt trim wiring

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1B0EB055-0675-4B4C-B37B-484DF369AFCB.pngFF3934EA-B9DB-4804-951D-9A2F3F6217E1.jpegCan anyone tell me why I cannot get power to blue-the old solenoid was bad and I bought a new one hooked everything up correct to my knowledge and isolated the switch and I cannot get power to cross to the top blue terminal. I even bought another solenoid thinking the new one was defective. I can get tilt and trim to work fine with direct power to battery. Am I missing something?
 
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Crosbyman

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relays need battery from the fuse and proper grounding to be activated. did you check fuses etc...

do you see +12 reach the relays ??
 
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Crosbyman said:
relays need battery from the fuse and proper grounding to be activated. did you check fuses etc...

do you see +12 reach the relays ??
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Yea and the old solenoid was definitely the problem but the two new ones won’t pass power-it will start and everything but will not pass power when trim switch is activated. No fuses/relays aside from the in-line shown. 3wire trim switch and only uses one solenoid
 

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make certain the other side of the control relay winding is properly grounded ... no ground no current flow in the winding !!

12.42 volts mean nothing if the control path wire 12 v source is resistive to & from the trim switch

... try applying pure 12v of the battery on the control post to see if the properly grounded relay reacts

... if ok then the12.4v you measure is not passing the necessary amps to cause the relay to operate.. check for oxydized junctions, bad trim switch contacts etc...


you would be very bad lucky to have so many bad relays " the two new ones won’t pass power !!!"
 
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I dont think I have bad solenoid either I just keep getting people telling me to buy a new solenoid after I’ve already double checked it. The original was bad but the new one is def good. Im just trying to list everything that I’ve checked. I’ll double check grounds but it grounds right to battery from small terminal
 
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Crosbyman said:
make certain the other side of the control relay winding is properly grounded ... no ground no current flow in the winding !!

12.42 volts mean nothing if the control path wire 12 v source is resistive to & from the trim switch

... try applying pure 12v of the battery on the control post to see if the properly grounded relay reacts

... if ok then the12.4v you measure is not passing the necessary amps to cause the relay to operate.. check for oxydized junctions, bad trim switch contacts etc...


you would be very bad lucky to have so many bad relays " the two new ones won’t pass power !!!"
Click to expand...
I cut out the switch and touched red(power) to green which obviously works but touching to blue won’t. Which tells me it’s not the switch, correct?
 
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It’s a johnson 85hp javelin tilt and trim and I’m looking at the model # Ftlr78c so I’m guessing it’s a 1978?
 
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And to answer the previous question-I can pull hot right from the battery to the small stud blue and it still won’t trip the switch.
 
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Crosbyman

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on some 3 wireT&T black to motor never gets switched so 2 wires remain

blue and green applying power to either one individulally should produce up or down motions if not wires to motor or motor defective.

the rest is simple relay operation.. one winding is grounded the other is energized by =12v.... in some systmes the relay can be activated by having a perm. 12v on one post and applying ground to the other post. not to many choices.

applying a ohmeter across the two in-out main posts you should see a short when the relay is energized .

 
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Crosbyman said:
on some 3 wireT&T black to motor never gets switched so 2 wires remain

blue and green applying power to either one individulally should produce up or down motions if not wires to motor or motor defective.

the rest is simple relay operation.. one winding is grounded the other is energized by =12v.... in some systmes the relay can be activated by having a perm. 12v on one post and applying ground to the other post. not to many choices.

applying a ohmeter across the two in-out main posts you should see a short when the relay is energized .

Click to expand...
It all keeps boiling down to the relay. The motor works fine in both directions with direct voltage. Is there any chance that an automotive relay is to blame vs a marine relay?
 
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Crosbyman

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this may help ... so motor side confirmed OK this plan shows the relay/seloind in activated by grounding the control post to switch battery "out" to the motor

make certain fuse is good and passing 12v to the trim switch that 12v is needed to activate the relay sending power to the motor

if you have a good +12v IN.. from the rim switch . on the control post & if relay clicks and NO 12V exits the relay.. then the relay is bad or the main 12v source is absent


 
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FAT RED ... main BATTERY 12 volt source to relay
BLACK .... ground supply to the the inner winding of the relay
BLUE OUT of relay.... driver 12v to run the T&T UP as per Racerone comment .. this is the only switched current by the relay from the fat red to the fat blue output when trimming UP

to trim UP the control wire blue chopped withe must recieve 12 volts from the trim switch UP position check fuse and make certain 12v reaches the trim switch and RETURNS to the relay when "UP"

FAT red will then be connected to FAT BLUE by the relay and passed down to the T&T trim motor.

electricity flows if grounding to receive the current is available. Check all connections.

If no 12v is sent to the motor on FAT BLUE hold the trim switch on UP and wiggle prod squeeze wires and crimps . check reactions

if something reacts ... you found the problem

can't do much more at this end....





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