1987 Force 50 Model B

CFarley91

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Jul 3, 2022
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Hey everyone, been lurking for a while now and I have been able to see some useful information. I recently picked up my first boat, an 87 Bayliner Capri with a Force 50 engine. I didn't care too much about the engine because the boat and trailer were only $100 in amazing condition. Got the boat home and cannot seem to get it to fire up. I can get it to crank all day long but doesn't seem like it's getting any spark. I have used an inline spark tester to confirm this, even got another pair of coils, plugs, wires and still nothing. I read something about if the stator goes bad, it would cause it to not fire. Is this true? Should I look at replacing the stator and go from there? I have a manual that says its for my engine model and various testers.

Checked compression - Passed

If anyone has any knowledge of where I can go from this point besides getting another engine that would be awesome and appreciated!!
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
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18,071
outboardignitiondotcom has test procedures for your motor.
Just replacing the stator might help then again might not???
  1. Check for broken wires and terminals, especially inside the plastic plug-in connectors. We recommend that you remove the pins from the connectors and visually inspect them.
  2. Check the flywheel for a broken or loose magnet.
  3. Disconnect the kill wires from the CD and connect a DC voltmeter between the kill wires and engine ground, turn the ignition switch on and off several times. If, at any time, you see voltage appearing on the meter, there is a problem in the harness or ignition switch. At NO TIME SHOULD YOU SEE BATTERY VOLTAGE ON A KILL CIRCUIT.
  4. Visually inspect stator for burned or discolored areas. If found, replace the stator. If the areas are on the battery charge windings, it indicated a possible problem with the rectifier.
IF NO FIRE ON ANY CYLINDER:
  1. Disconnect kill wire AT THE PACK.
  2. Check for broken or bare wires on the unit, stator and trigger.
  3. Measure DVA voltage of the stator between the output wire sets. With everything connected, readings should be approximately 180 volts or more. Resistance readings between the stator wire sets range from 680 - 800 ohms.
  4. Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine fires, replace the rectifier.
NO FIRE OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE CYLINDER:
  1. Check stator and trigger resistance, trigger wire sets read approximately 50 ohms between the wire sets (DVA-5V or more), stator reads 680-800 ohms, DVA 180V or more from blue to yellow.
  2. If readings are good, disconnect kill wire from one pack. If the dead cylinder starts firing, the problem is likely the blocking diode in the other pack.
NO FIRE ON TWO CYLINDERS:
  • If two cylinders from the same CD unit will not fire, the problem is usually in the stator. Test per above.
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
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The 87 B came with points.
Maybe someone changed things around?
Make sure they are clean and making a good contact.
That motor might have a kill switch in the system.
 

CFarley91

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Jul 3, 2022
Messages
6
The 87 B came with points.
Maybe someone changed things around?
Make sure they are clean and making a good contact.
That motor might have a kill switch in the system.
Thank you for the info as I will look into it, to get to the points I need to remove the flywheel, my manual does not explain timing the engine very well as my flywheel has like 4 lines on it so its confusing. Would a bad stator cause a no start as well? I believe I am getting infinite ohms between the white and brown wire coming off the stator. I will have to check the AC volts and OHMS on the charging side but the charging side shouldn't stop it from starting I would think.
 

garbageguy

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1,598
In the idea of, start with easiest to do, and go from there. As jerryjerry mentioned - killswitch is one. Easiest, is there a killswitch an the throttle console? That one has bitten many
 

CFarley91

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Messages
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In the idea of, start with easiest to do, and go from there. As jerryjerry mentioned - killswitch is one. Easiest, is there a killswitch an the throttle console? That one has bitten many
There is a kill switch, I will have to try and see if that is causing me issues. How would I check to see if its the problem? From what I have read is that if the lanyard was unplugged then it would not fire. should it have some kind of ohms between? I havent pulled it yet to see what it looks like wiring wise.

Edit:
This is how it is wired, how can I test this?
 

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jerryjerry05

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If the lanyard is not hooked up?? then it shouldn't fire.
How about pics of the coils and the sides and top of the motor??
 

CFarley91

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If the lanyard is not hooked up?? then it shouldn't fire.
How about pics of the coils and the sides and top of the motor??
Lanyard is hooked up, here are the pictures of motor. Still have to verify ohms of stator though
 

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jerryjerry05

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That is a points system.
File the points before you do anything else.
That one coil(white/top) shows that it might be a problem.
Those coils are fairly expensive.
 

CFarley91

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That is a points system.
File the points before you do anything else.
That one coil(white/top) shows that it might be a problem.
Those coils are fairly expensive.
Ok, I will remove flywheel and file the points down some.
What makes you think the coil could be the problem? I have tested it with and Ohm meter and the primary and secondary seem to be within a reasonable spec.
 

jerryjerry05

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I see the paper towel wrapped around it and wonder if it's been a problem?
The factory doesn't use paper towels for anything?? Wonder why it has a diaper??
 

CFarley91

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I see the paper towel wrapped around it and wonder if it's been a problem?
The factory doesn't use paper towels for anything?? Wonder why it has a diaper??
Not really sure either, although when I took that coil off, it was some kind of tape and I am not sure what the previous owner may have it there for as I was just confused as well.
 
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