Loss of power, won't plane

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Beakster

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Confirmed that only one cylinder has a .020 piston, rest look stock.

Managed to get the powerhead off without a hoist and got it on the bench now. Still need to get the flywheel off, got a puller but don't have bolts with the correct 5/16-24 thread pitch so will try to find them tomorrow.

I noticed the vacuum hoses are all very brittle and some of the plastic nipples are broken. Can you buy this hose by the roll? What size/type should I look for?

Also this piston looks damaged around the edge. What can cause this? I will of course replace all but concerned new ones could be damaged too if this is evidence of fuel mixture or cooling problem


PXL_20211129_022304213.jpg
 
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Faztbullet

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That is caused by rolled/broken ring in the ring land of piston. Due to low temp as oil "cokes" in ring land and pushes ring out. It thencan catch a edge in port and break.
 

racerone

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I do not believe there are any " vacuum " hoses on this motor.-----Hoses for oil recirculation and electric primer valve hoses.----t is the design of the top piston ring that is at fault here.-----I can't believe they stuck with that design for 20 years after first issues showed up.---Install 4 new WISECO pistons.------Different style piston rings and you will be good for years to come !!
 

RBoyd1971

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You could see that piston damage where the ring piece came out in your borescpe video. Surprised it wasn't mentioned. That is one bad honing job someone did as mentioned earlier. As far as the head damage, I've got one as bad or worse that's been running like that for a while. Someone rebuilt it and didn't even try to smooth it up. I did clean it up a bit recently when changing a head gasket. Some folks just don't care and just want it running. Me, I take pride in my work.
 

Beakster

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Thanks all. Yes now I have the block fully dismantled I can see what you mean about the broken ring causing that damage.

PXL_20211130_020220709.jpg

I guess that was me forcing the engine to take me back to the dock after the ring blew.

I'm trying to find someone to do the rebore now, much harder than I expected. The main engine shop in town said they can't do it, I'm guessing they are only setup to bore 4 strokes. I'm just really hoping that all the scoring on the bores can be removed with a rebore.

Is it worth giving an engine shop any parts other than the block? Should I have the crank machined or balanced by them too?
 

racerone

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Sorry----If there is anything wrong with the crankshaft you replace it.----Lots of good ones around used.-----evinrudeparts.ca----May assist with parts.
 

Faztbullet

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Call Jason. He can bore and supply you all the parts needed to repair and can shortblock it for you if needed.
Jason White at
Jay’s Block Shop in Tennessee
Contact info: Jay’s Block Shop
3015 McMinnville Hwy
Sparta,Tn. 38583

(931) 808-0814
 

Beakster

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Call Jason. He can bore and supply you all the parts needed to repair and can shortblock it for you if needed.
Jason White at
Jay’s Block Shop in Tennessee
Contact info: Jay’s Block Shop
3015 McMinnville Hwy
Sparta,Tn. 38583

(931) 808-0814
I'm in Quebec. I think it could be cost prohibitive to ship the engine block to a foreign country and back again. In addition to shipping I expect I'd incur foreign exchange fees and input/export fees. I'll try dropping them a line regardless. I don't seem to be able to find anyone in Quebec who can do this so I've started searching in Ontario.
 

Beakster

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Well I haven't forgotten about this, jut got distracted by life. I gave up trying to find an engine shop in Quebec and spoke to Jay as mentioned above. He has a new address now:
4196 Bald Knob Mountain Cummings Cove Rd, Doyle, TN 38559, USA

I'll be sending the block to him and getting a rebuild kit too. Only problem is that its been a year since I dismantled it and, I lost my phone which had all the photos I took of where everything goes. So I suspect I'll need to ask for a lot of help on here. Likely I'll have it back in a month or so and rebuild over the winter.
 

Faztbullet

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Easy rebuild once block is back. When you get block back prep it by cleaning and chasing all the bolt holes and then a final wash and oil. Get a 6pack, go to garage WITHOUT phone, turn radio off and start assembling...should have together in about 4 hours.
 

Beakster

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Finally back up and running on this project after another long pause. Waiting on the machined block coming back, and I have placed an order for a WSM rebuild kit with .030 oversized pistons, waterpump kit and thermostat kit.

What else will I need to have on hard to do the rebuild? So far I expect to needs:
* Calibrated torque wrench
* 2 stroke oil for assembly
* Piston ring compressor

Any other assembly lubes or special tools I should order?

Thanks
 

racerone

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No need for a ring compressor.----I just use my finger nails or small screwdriver.----Never an issue that way.
 

Beakster

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20230514_221021.jpg

I removed the engine what is left of the outboard (as the block is removed and I'm still waiting on it coming back) from the tilt and trim so as I can get on properly to repaint everything. But I'm worried that removing it in this way has bent the shifting rod.

After doing this I see I should have removed the lower unit first, I need to replace the water pump anyway. šŸ˜…. Oh well, learning by my mistakes. I'll get the lower unit off at some point and try to bend the shifting rod straight.

I see when doing the water pump I need gasket sealer and glue. Any recommendations on brands? Any other liquids other than 2 stroke oil I need for assembly?
 

Beakster

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Engine rebuild kit is here and block due to arrive tomorrow. Total of over $500 in import duties and taxes for rebuild kit and machining work on the engine, so I'm already $2,500 into this engine rebuild...

Reading the manual on assembly, it mentioned the following items which I need:
Gel seal
Needle bearing grease
Adhesive M
Outboard lubricant (I guess this is just 2 stroke oil)
Moly lube

Are there generic alternatives to these?

Do I need a piston cradle for removing and inserting the pin? Can I drive them in and out with a socket?

Thanks
 

tphoyt

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There are all things that are best if used and not compromised with lower quality products if you don’t want to do it again. There are other ways around it but it will be a crap shoot.
I have always used a wooden cradle and socket for pins with no problems.
Best
 

racerone

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$2500 and you are doing the work yourself ??-----Way too much in my opinion.----Many times the pins just slide into the new pistons.-----Heat the old pistons to make the pins fall out !
 

Beakster

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$2500 and you are doing the work yourself ??-----Way too much in my opinion.----Many times the pins just slide into the new pistons.-----Heat the old pistons to make the pins fall out !
Yes, I never knew it would end up costing this much when I began, but now I'm in too deep:

Shipping block to Jays Blockshop: $100 CAD
Bore 4 cylinders, wash and ship $535 USD (728CAD)
Import duties and brokerage on repaired block: $200 CAD
WSM Rebuild Kit: 989 USD (1345 CAD)
Import duties and brokerage on rebuild kit: $300 CAD

Total spent so far $2673 CAD.
 

racerone

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Had a panic call from a dealer.-----Looking for a rebuilt block.----Did the job for way less that what you are spending.---Dealer gave me an extra bunch of beer tokens as well.
 

Beakster

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Had a panic call from a dealer.-----Looking for a rebuilt block.----Did the job for way less that what you are spending.---Dealer gave me an extra bunch of beer tokens as well.
I'd love to know how I could have saved money on this. I followed recommendations on here in terms of getting the block bored.
 
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