Looking for any suggestions

alldodge

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The DTC indicates voltage is out of range, so there is voltage it's just not where it should be. Don't know if it's the ECM or a connection. Hopefully the test should indicate where the issue is
 
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I'm watching this thread, very interesting. Lots of great input and once again I'm impressed with how the members of this forum strive to provide help. I may be wrong but since the problem is consistent after 20 minutes and / or the engine producing more heat I vote for a vent issue followed by some kind of electrical item that is malfunctioning when it gets to a certain temp. Either problem would solve itself by letting the engine sit off for a time. I hope you find the problem soon and post what the culprit is.
 

Berkley1

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I'm watching this thread, very interesting. Lots of great input and once again I'm impressed with how the members of this forum strive to provide help. I may be wrong but since the problem is consistent after 20 minutes and / or the engine producing more heat I vote for a vent issue followed by some kind of electrical item that is malfunctioning when it gets to a certain temp. Either problem would solve itself by letting the engine sit off for a time. I hope you find the problem soon and post what the culprit is.
Me too I will correct the vent issue by running a separate vent thru hull as opposed to having in the fill cap and I am currently looking at electrical, as the only issue I have is a TPS low voltage will need to track this down. Thanks for the support and guidance.
 

ESGWheel

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I will correct the vent issue by running a separate vent thru hull as opposed to having in the fill cap....
This is confusing. Let allow me to explain > in all the above posts there was an initial thought that the venting of the tank was the issue. However, there is no conclusion to that effect. Yet your post suggests that that is an issue.

Is it? Have you validated that after the engine dies that unscrewing the gas cap did not solve the problem?

While I am being blunt it is not intended to infuriate you. The key to solving issues to thru a process of elimination. A perfect example of this are posts 21 thru 23. This process outlined by AllDodge provides either this or that based on the testing.

More: a simple fix to a combo fill / vent issue if it exists (i.e., not venting) is simply to replace the cap. They are cheap and I recommend carrying a spare > when that little ball-chain breaks during a fueling and the cap is now 10 feet underwater you will be glad to have that spare.

More More: installing a “new” tank vent is not something to be taken lightly. See this link for the requirements (paragraph 4.13).

In conclusion: I strongly urge you to NOT add in a separate / new tank vent. Change your cap if needed. And to also follow the great advice you are getting, step by step.
 

Berkley1

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So an update to my ongoing issue so much to cover I removed the vent hose no change I have now gotten to what I believe is an electrical issue possible a ground issue the engine starts sometimes, sometimes it doesn't now when I try to start it seems like it wants to run idle is very low then it dies after several revolutions every sensor has been replaced ignition coil fuel pump injectors plugs relays new batteries. Checked fuel pressure out of the pumps spot on. What would be the best way to track down a possible ground issue? Also have a Tech Mate scanner showing no faults.
 

cyclops222

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Year of the boat ? Year of the motor ? Picture showing condition of engine and wiring on it ? Any corroded metal parts ? Salt water boat ?
 

Berkley1

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Year of the boat ? Year of the motor ? Picture showing condition of engine and wiring on it ? Any corroded metal parts ? Salt water boat ?
Yes salt water it's a 2002 Wellcraft Martinique 2600 with a Volvo Penta 5.7GXI-A TBI with 290 duo prop sterndrive.
 

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alldodge

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Where did you get the new injectors?
With scanner in place what does the TPS and IAC show when idling?
 

cyclops222

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The boat and engine look fantastic !! (y)
Lets do basic testing. Remove each sparkplug carefully. do not break any of them. see if they are all the same color and " stuff " on the electrodes. Post a picture of the best and worst sparkplug ends.
Is this a sudden new problem ? or a steadily getting worse problem ?
 

Berkley1

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Where did you get the new injectors?
With scanner in place what does the TPS and IAC show when idling?
Motormanfuelinjectors they matched what I needed perfectly I just repaired the TPS had a bad pigtail it now reads .04 at 0% throttle and 4.92 at WOT I have to go back and check the IAC as I replaced that too.
 

Berkley1

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The boat and engine look fantastic !! (y)
Lets do basic testing. Remove each sparkplug carefully. do not break any of them. see if they are all the same color and " stuff " on the electrodes. Post a picture of the best and worst sparkplug ends.
Is this a sudden new problem ? or a steadily getting worse problem ?
the plugs are all new AC Delco matched to the engine the problem has been on and off but has gotten worse sometimes I can start it sometimes it's like it wants to start but won't if I start it it runs what appears to be fine if I shut it down and try to restart no go.
 

Berkley1

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the plugs are all new AC Delco matched to the engine the problem has been on and off but has gotten worse sometimes I can start it sometimes it's like it wants to start but won't if I start it it runs what appears to be fine if I shut it down and try to restart no go.
I was planning on pulling the plugs even though they have only been in for a couple of months.
 

alldodge

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Motormanfuelinjectors they matched what I needed perfectly I just repaired the TPS had a bad pigtail it now reads .04 at 0% throttle and 4.92 at WOT I have to go back and check the IAC as I replaced that too.
The injector place says they have new and "rebuilt", it would have to be brand new. Have you looked at the spray pattern with a timing like as suggested?

Want to see what the reading is at idle, not what it does with key on and motor not running.
 

Berkley1

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The injector place says they have new and "rebuilt", it would have to be brand new. Have you looked at the spray pattern with a timing like as suggested?

Want to see what the reading is at idle, not what it does with key on and motor not running.
Yes spray pattern is really good cone shape I don't think I have a fuel issue as I have checked the fuel pressure coming out of the HP pump and it it is a steady 29-30PSI the TPS reading was running I will have to go back and check the IAC reading if it starts LOL
 

alldodge

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ok I'll take it that there is a misprint of .04 to .4 but your just spitting out what it shows in the book and for me that's not helping. The TPS volts should vary based on what the IAC and MAP sends to the ECM. It won't just stay there.

I'm now wonder what else has just been said
 

Berkley1

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ok I'll take it that there is a misprint of .04 to .4 but your just spitting out what it shows in the book and for me that's not helping. The TPS volts should vary based on what the IAC and MAP sends to the ECM. It won't just stay there.

I'm now wonder what else has just been said
Sorry just reading off of the TECH Mate scanner
 
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