Do I replace the core plugs when engine is out?

[Cali_Boat_Guy]

I'm pulling one of the 5.7 engines to do some repairs and upgrades. 1986 Sea Ray 270, twin 5.7s. Even with a 10 foot beam there is not much room to work down there. Since I will have it out I'm thinking of replacing the core (freeze) plugs because they will be easy to reach and set properly. Would you do it? Is there anything else I should check or replace besides the oil pan and seals?

 

[Mc Tool]

5.7l gotta be a small block chev ( I know sbc's well ) . How hard do you wanna go ? , I mean with the pan off why not chuck an oil pump and set of crank bearings and seals ,cam chain and sprockets ( specially if it has the fibre cam sprocket ) guide seals bla bla bla , for no better reason that your right there and the bits are not expensive . I guess it depends a bit on the hrs too. I dont mean to be a smartarse but if you have the mechanical skills you can save a buttload of money and give it a good overhaul for the cost of the parts .

 

[Scott Danforth]

why would you want to change the core plugs? those are either brass or stainless in a marine motor and will outlast the block

 

[Lou C]

Agreed as long as it was set up as a marine motor. Now on the other hand I’d very carefully inspect the oil pan and treat any rust spots with rust converter and then put a couple of coats of Rustolium on it…
And what else? Check leak sources on your transom mount, exhaust Y pipe etc.

 

[kenny nunez]

If the engine is fresh water cooled I would leave them in place. However I have been surprised in the past to see how much crud had built up in the rear and lower pockets of the water jackets. Most times the drain plugs are will not drain because of the build up. Also depends on if your boat is in shallow water more than deep fresh water.

 

[Scott Danforth]

cleaning the water jacket is a different mater. often involves pulling the motor and getting on the stand. removing the heads, and with the pan up, chucking an 18" section of steel cable in a cordless drill and probing the casting.

 

[cyclops222]

If any core plugs are NOT SEATED correctly ? Replace it.

 

[Scott06]

If the engine is fresh water cooled I would leave them in place. However I have been surprised in the past to see how much crud had built up in the rear and lower pockets of the water jackets. Most times the drain plugs are will not drain because of the build up. Also depends on if your boat is in shallow water more than deep fresh water.

this is a good point our dock is in a big shallow sandy cove so I get a bunch of silt in the engine, no way around it. I get a silt storm backing out of the lift such that it digs a 12-18" deep channel every year backing out...

 

[Lou C]

If you have trouble getting it to drain then yes it makes sense to pull the core plugs & clean out the block. I try to stay out of shallow water just for that reason.

 

[Scott06]

If you have trouble getting it to drain then yes it makes sense to pull the core plugs & clean out the block. I try to stay out of shallow water just for that reason.

that hard when the water at the end of your dock is 26" deep...

 

[Lou C]

My mooring spot is usually 5’ deep at low tide & 12’ deep at high tide tide. Those are the kind of #s I like….

 

[Mc Tool]

that hard when the water at the end of your dock is 26" deep...

Look on the bright side , whatever you drop over the side will be easy to recover .........silver linings an all that

 

[Scott06]

Look on the bright side , whatever you drop over the side will be easy to recover .........silver linings an all that

Yeah but you would be amazed, swapping props one time I lost the trust washer as it stuck the to prop pul lining it off… took me 45 min to find it …

 

[cyclops222]

No t true with very soft bottoms. 4 sunglasses. Tools, sparkplugs, coins, fuses.

 

[Cali_Boat_Guy]

5.7l gotta be a small block chev ( I know sbc's well ) . How hard do you wanna go ? , I mean with the pan off why not chuck an oil pump and set of crank bearings and seals ,cam chain and sprockets ( specially if it has the fibre cam sprocket ) guide seals bla bla bla , for no better reason that your right there and the bits are not expensive . I guess it depends a bit on the hrs too. I dont mean to be a smartarse but if you have the mechanical skills you can save a buttload of money and give it a good overhaul for the cost of the parts .

I'm a good mechanic but the engine is solid right now. I just can't find an elf to hire to get to some locations...

 

[Mc Tool]

yeah and the reason ( if your anything like me ) is coz you have been standing on it the whole time

 

[Cali_Boat_Guy]

why would you want to change the core plugs? those are either brass or stainless in a marine motor and will outlast the block

That's why I'm asking. It's all about the difficult access. I've yet to examine them. If they are stainless then no worries.

 

[Cali_Boat_Guy]

Agreed as long as it was set up as a marine motor. Now on the other hand I’d very carefully inspect the oil pan and treat any rust spots with rust converter and then put a couple of coats of Rustolium on it…
And what else? Check leak sources on your transom mount, exhaust Y pipe etc.

Thanks for the input! I'm all ears!

 

[Mc Tool]

I'm a good mechanic but the engine is solid right now. I just can't find an elf to hire to get to some locations...

yeah , there is nothing small about me but collectively the neiboughs have 9 kids in various sizes who are very receptive to bribes so , yeah , Im good

 

[Cali_Boat_Guy]

this is a good point our dock is in a big shallow sandy cove so I get a bunch of silt in the engine, no way around it. I get a silt storm backing out of the lift such that it digs a 12-18" deep channel every year backing out...

If any core plugs are NOT SEATED correctly ? Replace it.

Thank you for the input.