Help with Johnson 150 Pinion Bearing Removal

runninfarmer

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Jun 28, 2012
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Hi All,

I'm in the process of disassembling a Johnson/Evinrude 150 60 degree gearcase so that I can replace all bearings, seals, and a couple gears. I need some help please with the pinion bearing. Removal looks straightforward, but I want all my ducks in a row. Since this is a '95 model, it doesn't have a retaining screw holding the bearing in place, but a retaining ring that looks easy enough to pull out (pic of diagram attached). Does it need to be pulled out the bottom and can it be reused? I have the manual, but mine is for the '91-'92 model years which had retaining screws. Everything else is the same. I'm planning to use a threaded rod with a socket to pull the bearing up out the top. Appreciate any info!

1741899940300.png
 

runninfarmer

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There is some light scoring on the inside of the gear case above the pinion bearing. I lightly filed it, is that ok? There was also some small wear on the lower drive shaft where it rides in the pinion bearing. I smoothed it out with a wire wheel. Is this acceptable? Pics below:
IMG_5492.jpegIMG_5495.jpeg
 

Mc Tool

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Top pic , Nah that shaft is custard . What your looking at is the hardened surface (where the bearing runs ) has disintegrated .
You may be able to recover the shaft but its either some hard welding , machining and rehardening , or maybe sleeving it ( speedy sleeve ? ).
The problem is that the bearing runs directly on the shaft , there is no replaceable inner race .
That bottom pic , the scoring is not in a bad place , probly initial machining marks , but it looks really dirty in there , was it like that when you pulled it to bits ? Im thinking there should be only gear case oil in there .
 

runninfarmer

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I was afraid of that, I’ll go ahead and get a different lower shaft. It is still dirty in there, haven’t finished cleaning yet. I think the PO let a water leak go and it wreaked havoc on the bearings, gears etc. It was pretty bad. There were metal bits and dirt.
 

Mc Tool

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I was afraid of that, I’ll go ahead and get a different lower shaft. It is still dirty in there, haven’t finished cleaning yet. I think the PO let a water leak go and it wreaked havoc on the bearings, gears etc. It was pretty bad. There were metal bits and dirt.
If your looking to get a used shaft the bearing position might be shinier than the rest of the shaft but if you can feel or measure any wear its on its way out .
Can you get that part new ?
 

racerone

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That pinion shaft and the bearing are garbage.------A good used gearcase is the best option.----Or new SEI unit.----These lower units are not robust like older ones, so shop carefully.
 

runninfarmer

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I’m committed to rebuilding this one as I already purchased all new parts. Once I get a good lower shaft I’ll post an update. Spending more than what I wanted but still less than all the used units I’ve seen.
 

racerone

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You are aware that there is shimming involved to put the pinion in the correct position?----Your location ?
 

runninfarmer

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Yep, I know there’s a special holder and gauge, torque to 70 ft-lbs, and then subtract 0.020” from gap. I was wondering if I can just torque to 70, measure total gap with calipers, subtract gauge length, and then subtract 0.020” to get my shim thickness?
 

racerone

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I have the factory shimming fixture / tool.------So not sure how accurate your method would be.-----Mistakes might be expensive.
 

flyingscott

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Yep, I know there’s a special holder and gauge, torque to 70 ft-lbs, and then subtract 0.020” from gap. I was wondering if I can just torque to 70, measure total gap with calipers, subtract gauge length, and then subtract 0.020” to get my shim thickness?
the tool is spring loaded
 
Joined
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as flyingscott said the tool is spring loaded so you can put the correct amount of pressure on the whole assembly for repeatable measurements. you cant use calipers that way here. you're only allowed like .002'' error or severely reduce pinion life.
 

racerone

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Best to install pinion on the shaft.-----Then visit your local shop.------They can tell you what shims in minutes with the correct tool.
 

runninfarmer

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I ended up biting the bullet on buying a used one on eBay for $200. Comes with 5 gauges and collars. I’m sure I’ll use it again. I’m also in north central Iowa where I’m the closest thing to a marine mechanic within 60 miles lol.

Still waiting on one bearing and gear and then I’m ready to start reassembly.
 
Last edited:

Faztbullet

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If it chit the pinion for no reason (I dont really see the water evidence) the gearcase may be warped. There is a gearcase alignment tool to check this. I will not rebuild a gearcase unless it is checked. I have discarded cases that look almost new that was warped. If not it will chit the gear again. This is the reason a lot of the newer repaired gearcases fail
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runninfarmer

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Sorry for delay, finally got a new gear set, with new lower driveshaft. Got it shimmed with the OMC tool. Got everything back together, but when I turn the prop shaft by hand, it sounds like something’s rubbing inside the gear case. Is there a break-in period? Would prop shaft be bent?
IMG_5570.jpeg
 

runninfarmer

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Yep, I replaced pinion roller bearing, all thrust bearings, and roller bearings in the bearing carrier. I actually went ahead and bought the whole carrier assembly with bearings and seals already in it, as it was a good deal. Just seems like towards the front end of the housing there's rubbing. I know the manual mentions changing the gear oil after 10-20 hrs after reassembly. But it's definitely not smooth turning like other motors I've felt.
The reverse gear is only thing I reused. Forward gear and pinon are brand new.
 

racerone

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Sounds like shift rod needs to be adjusted.------What dimension did you use to set shift rod height??
 
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