I have a leak.

[Grub54891]

I got a selfie stick at the dollar store, attach the phone and look for any leaks with that.

 

[Pmt133]

I can reach down there with the phone, problem is I can't get it where I need to. The phone itself is too big.

 

[kenny nunez]

Does the leak happen on the trailer with a flush out?
Or does it leak in the water without the engine running?

 

[Pmt133]

It seems to leak in the water only.

 

[Lou C]

Those inspection cameras with the movable snake cameras are a great tool for anyone who owns an I/O!

 

[kenny nunez]

It might be one of the sacrificial anode bolts, they can be replaced without removing the engine depending on how the boat is built and how flexable your body is. Otherwise the engine needs to come out.

 

[kenny nunez]

It might be one of the sacrificial anode bolts, they can be replaced without removing the engine.
my bad with the key board.

 

[JASinIL2006]

It's not uncommon to have to retighten the band clamps for the elbows after a new installation.
When I converted my old OMC 4.3 from the OMC batwing exhaust to the later 2 piece style I spent the extra money for the Volvo OEM 90* exhaust down pipes vs the GLM copies just for that reason, to avoid leaks, and they have been leak free since installed in '17. I might have had to retighten one or 2 after the initial install. Hope your leak is easily resolved!

When I reassembled and tested my boat after restoration, I found a leak and it was exactly as you describe. It was tricky because the water ran down the Y-pipe. It took a bit of searching to find it was leaking from the rubber boots on the elbows.

 

[Pmt133]

So I checked and tightened the boots with no change. Looked around and it definitely is coming from the Y-pipe mating area.

My 3 thoughts are as follows:

• Y-Pipe o-ring
• Hydraulic hose block gasket
• Continuity kit screw. (had to retap and went through, sealed with 5200 but may leak?)

I got nothing else but it seems to be leaking all the time now albeit slow when floating and worse when running. That would make me think Y-pipe but the agitation around the transom from the exhaust could also do it too I guess...

 

[Scott06]

So I checked and tightened the boots with no change. Looked around and it definitely is coming from the Y-pipe mating area.

My 3 thoughts are as follows:

• Y-Pipe o-ring
• Hydraulic hose block gasket
• Continuity kit screw. (had to retap and went through, sealed with 5200 but may leak?)

I got nothing else but it seems to be leaking all the time now albeit slow when floating and worse when running. That would make me think Y-pipe but the agitation around the transom from the exhaust could also do it too I guess...

The wye pipe can corrode through, also if you loose a flapper they can lodge in the bottom of the wye and wear through.
could be any of those things. Need to look with scope camera or pull the engine and put the boat in the water so you can get in and see what is going on

 

[Pmt133]

The wye pipe can corrode through, also if you loose a flapper they can lodge in the bottom of the wye and wear through.
could be any of those things. Need to look with scope camera or pull the engine and put the boat in the water so you can get in and see what is going on

True but, it also was all new from the restoration. I don't think it would've happened immediately but if it had started later I would agree. And again I thought it would've shown up in the original float test. But things happen.

While I don't want to, it looks like I am going to have to pull the engine again, as that will give me the best visual inspection... (This will be the 7th time in a year and a half now.... This 4.3l is slowly killing me.)

 

[Grub54891]

That hydrolic hose block gasket got me. I changed all the bellows and it still leaked. Found that block gasket bad.

 

[Pmt133]

I'm back!!! Over the weekend I swung the engine and today I float tested. I actually weighted down the back of the boat with sand bags and got it sitting lower in the water than it normally would with the engine in... aaand I couldn't find any drip. It floated for an hour and a half. I moved the drive all around, blew air through the y-pipe, tugged on it... nothing.

So I'm at a total loss. I pulled the y-pipe and replaced the O-Ring anyway since I had a spare mercruiser one. I am going to replace the gasket on the transom hydraulic block as well since it's easy enough to snake the hoses through with the engine out.... I am tempted to hit the transom assembly bolts with a torque wrench again but I really don't think it's needed and may introduce an unneeded variable. beyond that I got nothing.

My observations from when it was leaking:

• It was coming from higher than the anode bolts
• it seemed worse when the engine was running
• Didn't seem to do it on the trailer.

Anything else to look for "while I'm in there"?

 

[sdowney717]

Could the housing have a crack?
I have been using white Oatey Teflon pipe dope grease for sealing up all sorts of things. I use it on rubber hose to metal pipe nipples, keeps hoses from sticking. Bolts and nuts, keeps them from rusting. O-rings, Seals, etc., anything to do with water. It repels water, fills gaps.

Oatey® Great White® Pipe Joint Compound With PTFE | Oatey

Oatey® Great White® Pipe Joint Compound with PTFE lubricates and seals all threaded joints. Both non-hardening and non-toxic, Great White can be used on plastic or metal threads in systems carrying water, steam, caustics or dilute acids. It includes a convenient in-lid brush for easy...

www.oatey.com

I think this haulout, might lubricate and seal the rudder post and shaft with it versus marine grease.

 

[Pmt133]

Could the housing have a crack?
I have been using white Oatey Teflon pipe dope grease for sealing up all sorts of things. I use it on rubber hose to metal pipe nipples, keeps hoses from sticking. Bolts and nuts, keeps them from rusting. O-rings, Seals, etc., anything to do with water. It repels water, fills gaps.

Oatey® Great White® Pipe Joint Compound With PTFE | Oatey

Oatey® Great White® Pipe Joint Compound with PTFE lubricates and seals all threaded joints. Both non-hardening and non-toxic, Great White can be used on plastic or metal threads in systems carrying water, steam, caustics or dilute acids. It includes a convenient in-lid brush for easy...

www.oatey.com

I think this haulout, might lubricate and seal the rudder post and shaft with it versus marine grease.

I mean it may be possible. I did bead blast and strip/paint the whole thing and didn't recall seeing one... but now torqued with the inner transom plate it may not be visible. It's just odd that it was bad enough to be visible last fall and trip the bilge pump at rest... and now there's nothing.

 

[sdowney717]

I mean it may be possible. I did bead blast and strip/paint the whole thing and didn't recall seeing one... but now torqued with the inner transom plate it may not be visible. It's just odd that it was bad enough to be visible last fall and trip the bilge pump at rest... and now there's nothing.

No leak now? Could be some marine fouling or corrosion has built up wherever the leak is.

The Oatey sealer is good stuff for sealing and lubricating things and repelling water. I have used it for about 10 years on my twin engine hoses, both the coolant side and the raw water side without any hose degradation. Not a single hose has ever popped off. Works good as an antiseize on bolts.

I recently replace my 'top mount' port starter to new style PMR motor and gear reduction. This kind slides into a large hole with 2 short bolts holding it. I used the Oatey sealer on the cast iron block and starter housing and starter bolts. It will prevent a starter from rusting into position on your block. I replaced a friend's twin engine starters, MerCruiser 260 V8, and both starters were badly rusted on, and had to hammer them off.

You can use it on a bronze rubber impeller pump water pump cam to seal the cam to the pump body, and it wont corrode and get stuck. I also seal the little cam screw, no leaks. And I lightly coat the paper gasket, helps keep that from getting stuck.

And can seal NPT pipe threads, prevents leaks, don't have to overtighten them. The parts won't corrode together. I have used it on large through hull threads, never leaks.

I also use it on my pencil engine zincs for the heat exchangers. I coat the zinc threads and the brass holder threads, and verified with an ohmmeter full conductivity.