93 Mariah engine mount

[todhunter]

Ok, I think I understand now...I think I'm gonna use PL for my glue and the pink insulation stuff 1/4" to keep it off the hull...Can I use like the total boat repair putty to create my filet? Thank you again for your patience...This is a lot of ****...There is a lot chemicals and rules...No poly over epoxy, but epoxy over poly is ok etc...Thank you again...Jason

To keep your bill of materials small and costs down, don't buy the total boat stuff, don't buy the PL, don't buy any epoxy- just buy laminating poly resin (it will come with MEKP), cabosil, 1/4" chopped strands, non-waxed white gelcoat, and a small bottle of wax. From these 4 things, you can make:

-Poly resin to wet out cloth, seal up wood, etc.
-peanut butter to fill gaps and glue things together with
-hairy peanut butter to use as a structural filler
-finishing resin or finishing gelcoat to seal the buildup underneath and allow it to fully cure

If you stick with poly based products, you won't have to worry about compatibility, it's super easy to use and adjust your desired working time, it's versatile, and you won't have a ton of different products laying around everywhere.

 

[Mariah212]

Did you look at the links I posted ? All the answers are in the thread in link 14

from post #30
here https://forums.iboats.com/threads/how-tos-and-other-great-information.283508/
Read links 14, 15, 17, 18, 2, 3, 4a, and 4b in their entirety

Scott, I'm not being disrespectful and not listening to your advice in the least...I know exactly who that guy is and have watched his Youtube videos that pertain too me numerous times...

? on the floors...If you notice I just cut back the floors some to get some glass on the backside of the stringers...Ideally I don't want to **** with the floors..They are resin covered from the factory and are in great shape..My plan is to use a 3/4 piece under the current floor with some PL and some deck screws and place a new piece on top making like a lap joint I guess and a layer of CSM on top...The part of the boat I'm doing is in the rear so it's not under much load with people etc...Thoughts??? thank you guys..

 

[MikeSchinlaub]

My plan is to use a 3/4 piece under the current floor with some PL and some deck screws and place a new piece on top making like a lap joint I guess and a layer of CSM on top...

Sure, that'll work. Just make sure to get plenty of resin on the edges. They will soak up more than the flats.

 

[Mariah212]

Finally made a little progress I think..Probably not textbook, but it should work...I know my gap seems large from the stringer to the hull, but there is a 26 degree angle there so it is much closer on the inside...I ended up using the PL just because I didn't have to mix anything.. Love the stuff...It's so tacky and easy to work with....

 

[MikeSchinlaub]

What is PL? It certainly doesn't look like something I would want to glass over.

 

[tpenfield]

PL Adhesive (it is a construction grade polyurethane adhesive)..

There has been some instances where the fiberglass would not stick to the PL because the PL had not fully cured.

Folks tend to shy away from it for that reason.

 

[Mariah212]

The guy with jacked up 95 Sea Ray used it on his repair...I followed what Scott said on here and watched his repair on here...Seems to be popular for bedding the stringers...I have always used epoxy on my Sea Doo boat so my experience with resin is limited...Plus it's like 60 here today in Atlanta...It will have days to cure until I resin over it...I have some total boat repair putty that I'm gonna put a big fillet over it...I am aware I can mix all this stuff with the resin and additives...I would rather spend money then screw up..

 

[Scott Danforth]

You have to let the PL dry for about 3-5 days before glassing over

 

[Mariah212]

Understood.. On the rear bulkhead behind the gas tank...I cut out my new one today...Does this get connected directly to the hull via resin or is it spaced like the stringer...It looks like it was fixed directly, but delamintaed. Under the gas tank I'm getting 1/4 in balsa core and I'm gonna glass that it in...Do I use woven or mat for something like that? I appreciate all the advice for sure..

 

[Mariah212]

For anyone bored or thought I gave up...It's still going on...Probably not text book, but since they didn't use 1708 in this boat I'm pretty sure it's gonna fly...Easily the biggest PITA was tapered lower piece for the engine mount...I would have liked to use one big piece, but I don't have a band saw large enough to cut something like that. I bought an Amazon wuhan special with a 3.5" cut and cut the board vertically...They are industrial adhesive connected...With a layer of mat on the top and bottom...The block itself is a block of untreated 2x6, 1" marine plywood and 3/4 BCX to get the level correct...2 layers of 1708 over the top...I appreciate all the help for sure..