87 50HP VRO Evinrude - Could this be my problem?

saltchuckmatt

Captain
Joined
Jul 19, 2019
Messages
3,011
you may want to check your e-mails to me to find the name ! jaques wasclose
I only repeated the 3x9 suggestion thinking you may have forgotten it :)

Jacques...;-)
Yeah, I winged it....my French needs much improvement!

And I did forget about the big 3 until you mentioned it, but I don't use mine. I've retired that to wall art!
 

FishAtFive

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Sep 3, 2025
Messages
39
I went into this weekend with two objectives: verify the stator is bad with a different meter and verify the primer solenoid is functioning as intended. After thinking it over, I chose a different route.

I knew the stator would cost about 110 to rebuild, and a battery is about the same. Also, my time is very limited until about Thanksgiving, so I took a gamble. I installed a LiFePo4 cranking battery, completely removed the rectifier, disconnected the stator, and the Pr/R and Gy wires that connect it to the battery loop. I also consulted an EE to make sure a disconnected stator would not cause a fire.

I set up my poor man's test tank and gave it a try. Started right up and idled it for a while, forward, reverse, all good. Shut off the motor and turned on my fish finder and waited about a half hour to simulate me fishing a spot. Did that on and off most of the day, and every time it starts just fine. A few times, I intentionally did not push in the key to beat on the battery a little bit.

After about 5 hours of doing that, the new battery only went down 5%. At that rate, I could fish a couple of days and not even charge it, not that I would. It's my opinion that the fautly stator slowly degraded the lead acid battery by leaving it uncharged for too long before I could get home and charge it. The degraded battery did not have the power to spin the flywheel fast enough to get good fuel pressure. Something that an unexperienced eye would not catch.

Thanks for all the help, I could not have gotten this fixed without it!
 

Crosbyman

Vice Admiral
Joined
Nov 5, 2006
Messages
5,892
just make certain your engine's charging system can handle a LiFePo4 battery because ...for instance they are not recommended on more modern ETECs. They have a BMS ( bbattery management system) and don't react like a conventional lead acid or AGM battery so don't mess up your charging cct. to savea few pounds.

hopefully an older Evinrude is not to fussy like an EMM on a ETEC !!
 

FishAtFive

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Sep 3, 2025
Messages
39
just make certain your engine's charging system can handle a LiFePo4 battery because ...for instance they are not recommended on more modern ETECs. They have a BMS ( bbattery management system) and don't react like a conventional lead acid or AGM battery so don't mess up your charging cct. to savea few pounds.

hopefully an older Evinrude is not to fussy like an EMM on a ETEC !!
Yep that's why I disabled the charging system. Removed the rectifier and disconnected the stator and disconnected the charging loop. These new batteries have a flat discharge curve, the voltage stays mostly constant until it has nothing left and then it drops off a cliff. This one I got even has a gauge right on the battery with a % left and voltage. It's was a little over $200.
 

Crosbyman

Vice Admiral
Joined
Nov 5, 2006
Messages
5,892
missed that... need new blasses ...:)

"completely removed the rectifier, disconnected the stator, and the Pr/R and Gy wires that connect it to the battery loop. I also consulted an EE to make sure a disconnected stator would not cause a fire."
 

FishAtFive

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Sep 3, 2025
Messages
39
Just an update, after three blissful days of fishing with no issues, the rough start when warm problem came back. Pulled the primer hose and could see it was not producing fuel, turned the red knob and started right up. When I got home I removed the amazon primer solenoid and used the O ring from that to fix the original part which I kept. Comparing the two it is night and day with regards to quality. The original is way snappier activating the solenoid and the plastic parts and gasket are much heavier. I am hoping this solves the issue permanantly.

With regards to the LiFePo4 cranking battery and disabling the charging system, so far no issues. On average I use about 10% of the battery for a single day on the water.
 
Joined
Jan 17, 2019
Messages
955
here is one answer from chatgpt...fwiw...just give it your engine mdl # for further details... see last parag.
Q 1987 50hp VRO can you list steps to do a link and Sync

ChatGPT said:​

Sure 👍 — here’s a step-by-step “Link and Sync” procedure for a 1987 Evinrude/Johnson 50 HP 2-cylinder with VRO (same basic procedure applies for 48/50 hp models from mid-80s to early 90s).
The goal is to properly synchronize carburetor throttle plates, timing, and throttle cam pickup so that fuel and spark advance happen together and the engine idles and accelerates smoothly.

⚙️ Tools & Items Needed​

  • Timing light (12 V powered)
  • Remote start switch (optional)
  • Screwdrivers and wrenches
  • Tachometer (if available)
  • Factory service manual (recommended for exact specs)
  • Feeler gauge (for idle stop screw if required)

🔧 PREPARATION​

  1. Warm up the motor — run on a test tank or flushing muffs until at normal operating temperature.
  2. Ensure idle timing, throttle, and cam adjustments are not tampered with yet — if they have been, you’ll reset them here.
  3. Throttle cable disconnected from the throttle arm (you’ll reconnect after syncing).

🧭 STEP 1 — Set Throttle Plates to Fully Closed​

  • With the throttle arm against the idle stop screw, both carburetor throttle plates must be fully closed, but not binding.
  • Adjust the link rod between upper and lower carbs if needed so both plates close simultaneously.

🧭 STEP 2 — Set Cam Follower Roller to Pickup Point​

  • On the throttle linkage, there’s a plastic roller that rides on a cam marked with an engraved line.
  • With the roller just touching the cam, rotate the throttle slightly.
  • The roller should align exactly with the scribed line on the cam when the carb throttle plates just start to open.
  • Adjust by lengthening or shortening the throttle cam link rod.
🟢 This ensures timing advance begins exactly when carbs start opening.

🧭 STEP 3 — Set Ignition Timing (at full advance)​

  1. Put the motor in forward gear (important for correct timing) and run it safely on muffs or in a tank.
  2. Advance the throttle to wide open while cranking (not running).
  3. Using a timing light, check maximum spark advanceagainst flywheel marks.
    • Typical spec for your engine: 28° BTDC (check your specific model tag or manual).
  4. Adjust by moving the timer base stop screw until the light shows the correct value.
⚠️ Do this cranking only, not running, for safety unless the factory procedure specifically calls for running.

🧭 STEP 4 — Idle Timing & Speed​

  • Return throttle to idle.
  • Start the engine and adjust the idle timing screwso it idles smoothly at:
    • 700–750 RPM in gear (in water)
    • ≈900–950 RPM in neutral
  • Adjust air mixture screws on each carb (if adjustable) for smooth idle—turn slowly in or out 1/8 turn at a time.

🧭 STEP 5 — Reconnect Throttle Cable​

  • With the control box in neutral and the throttle lever at idle, adjust the cable barrel so the throttle arm rests just against the idle stop screw without moving the linkage.
  • Lock the barrel nut.

🧭 STEP 6 — Final Check​

  • Advance throttle slowly—verify:
    • Timing advances smoothly before full throttle.
    • Throttle plates reach fully open at full control travel.
    • No binding or lag between carbs.
If all’s smooth → you’re Linked and Synced ✅

Would you like me to include the exact factory specs (timing degrees, pickup point mark location, idle RPM, etc.) for your 1987 50 HP model number (e.g., E50ELCUD or J50TLCDC)?
That’ll let me post precise numbers instead of general ones.

You said... :​

yes

ChatGPT replied :​

Perfect 👍 — I’ll give you the factory link & sync specs that match your exact model.
Can you please confirm the full model number from your engine’s ID plate or transom bracket?
It should look something like:
  • E50ELCUD (Evinrude 50 HP, Electric start, Long shaft, 1987)
  • or J50TLCDC (Johnson 50 HP, Tiller, Long shaft, 1987)
Once you give me that full model code, I’ll list:
✅ Idle timing (° BTDC or ATDC)
✅ Maximum timing advance
✅ Cam pickup setting
✅ Idle RPM (in gear & neutral)
✅ Specific notes for VRO-equipped models

Can you read that tag for me? It’s usually on the port transom bracket or the core plug (round aluminum freeze plug on top of the block).
those suggestions for setting the throttle cable are critical, and DEAD WRONG here if you have the common side mount control box. its set in FORWARD detent and the lash is pulled out then set the thumbwheel adjusted to trunnion pocket making sure the slow speed screw is FIRMLY against the block between neutral and reverse and neutral and forward!
 
Joined
Jan 17, 2019
Messages
955
that rectifier will absolutely get damaged with that lipo battery IMO. lead acid only. how does the tach work smoothly? those delicate diodes in the rectifier dont like that. you can get the maintenance free upgraded CDI rectifier (regulated) for about $120 then you can technically use cheap maintenance free stuff but id still stick to lead acid. the upgraded rectifier also charges MUCH smoother than the stock one, which makes for extended battery life.
 

FishAtFive

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Sep 3, 2025
Messages
39
Yes good point on the throttle. I had to adjust it a few times to get it firm otherwise it wasn't pulling the idle timing screw back into position.

I disabled the charging system as it's no longer needed. I completely removed the rectifier, disconnected the stator, and the Pr/R and Gy wires that connect it to the battery loop. I also consulted an EE to make sure a disconnected stator would not cause a fire. The tack was never wired up on this boat, just an usused plug on the controls. I used a laser tach when I set the idle with it in gear.

I get this solution is not for everyone but I'm delighted to have two parts I will never have to think about again, and I actually charge the battery less because now I only charge it the night before I go out instead of making sure it is topped off and keeping it on a trickle charger.
 
Top