No spark 55 HP Evinrude triumph 1969

[jimmbo]

Maybe the Insulation of the Wire is Compromised when it is routed to the Distributor... Have you considered checking it in the Dark, and I mean Dark?
Same applies to the Distributor.
I have seen Wires where Spark has found it's way out thru a Pinhole too small to see, but it found it

 

[sad boater]

Maybe the Insulation of the Wire is Compromised when it is routed to the Distributor... Have you considered checking it in the Dark, and I mean Dark?
Same applies to the Distributor.
I have seen Wires where Spark has found it's way out thru a Pinhole too small to see, but it found it

I will do this tomorrow night.

 

[68glasspar]

I will do this tomorrow night.

When i found the wires leaking on my 1969 85hp, it was a very very thin white arc, not a bright blue arc.
i know you said you replaced the wires, but were they 50yr old old stock parts?
I made new wires using new Belden solid core 7mm non resistor wire.

 

[Crosbyman]

Sad boater here is an opinion, unbiased even if repetitive...from an intelligent source As you go down the list you will see a simple test as i suggested on the "non cranking test" as you aling rotor to outbound plug wire... and fire the amplifier manually with a ground tap. If i read this correctly you should clearly see the inbound HV jump to the outbound plug wire position across a few mm gap . if you don't the HV is exiting somewhre else and has suggested by jimmbo a test session in FULL DARKNESS may show you where (big file separated... see step 3 in the 2nd half of the documeent.. DISREGARD faulty info at the beginning in para 1-2 since your amplifier fires on grounds from points not opens !!

STEP 3 — SIMPLE ROTOR ARC TEST​

​

Q: how does a 55 HP Evinrude triumph 1969 distributor work and why would inbound high voltage not exit properly to the sparkplugs

The 55 HP Evinrude Triumph 55 HP 1969 outboard uses a fairly simple battery ignition system with a distributor—very similar in principle to an old car.

How the distributor system works (plain and practical)​

1. Battery → ignition coil (low voltage side)
   • 12 V from the battery feeds the coil.
   • The coil has a primary winding (low voltage) and a secondary winding (high voltage).
2. Points open/close (timing switch)
   • Inside the distributor are breaker points driven by the cam on the shaft.
   • When points close → current builds in the coil.
   • When points open → magnetic field collapses → coil generates high voltage (20k+ volts).
3. Rotor distributes spark
   • That high voltage goes to the center of the distributor cap.
   • The rotor spins and passes close to each terminal inside the cap.
   • It “throws” the spark to the correct cylinder wire.
4. Spark plug fires
   • Voltage travels down the plug wire → jumps the gap → ignition.

---

Why high voltage might NOT reach the spark plugs​

If you know HV is being generated but not making it out properly, the fault is almost always after or inside the distributor.

1. Cracked or carbon-tracked distributor cap (very common)​

• High voltage leaks to ground instead of going to the terminals.
• Look for:
  • Hairline cracks
  • Black “lightning” lines inside (carbon tracking)
• Result: weak or no spark at plugs.

2. Worn or damaged rotor​

• Burned tip or excessive gap to terminals.
• Rotor not aligned properly with posts.
• Result: spark jumps wrong place or nowhere.

3. Moisture or oil inside cap​

• Common on marine engines.
• Causes voltage to bleed off instead of jumping to terminals.
• Result: intermittent or no spark.

4. Bad plug wires (high resistance or open)​

• Old wires can internally break or corrode.
• You may have voltage at cap but nothing at plug.
• Check with ohmmeter (should be low resistance).

5. Weak coil output (borderline case)​

• Coil produces voltage, but not strong enough to jump rotor-to-terminal gap under compression.
• You might see spark outside the engine but not when installed.

6. Points or condenser issues (indirect cause)​

• Points not opening cleanly → weak collapse → weak HV.
• Bad condenser → arcing at points → reduced spark energy.
• Result: spark exists but can’t make it through distributor reliably.

7. Rotor shaft / distributor timing problem​

• If the distributor shaft is worn or loose:
  • Rotor doesn’t line up with cap terminals.
  • Spark has too big a gap to jump.
• Result: misfire or no spark on some/all cylinders.

---

Quick diagnostic sequence (fast and effective)​

1. Check spark directly from coil
   • Pull center wire from cap → hold near ground.
   • Crank engine.
   • Strong blue spark = coil OK → problem is distributor or wires.
2. Inspect inside cap
   • Clean, dry, no cracks, no carbon tracks.
3. Check rotor
   • Not burned, tight, correct height.
4. Test each plug wire
   • Swap wires or check resistance.
5. Look at points
   • Clean, correct gap, not heavily pitted.

---

One key insight (important)​

High voltage doesn’t “flow” like low voltage—it jumps gaps.
So even small issues (moisture, tiny cracks, slightly worn rotor) can completely stop spark delivery.

---

If you want, I can walk you through step-by-step testing on your exact engine (no guesswork, just a 10–15 minute check sequence).

ok

Here’s a simple, no-special-tools diagnostic sequence for your 1969 Evinrude Triumph 55 HP 1969 outboard ignition system to isolate exactly why spark isn’t reaching the plugs.

---

Step-by-step spark diagnosis (fast and reliable)​

1) Confirm coil is producing high voltage​

Goal: separate coil problem from distributor problem

• Pull the center high-tension wire from the distributor cap
• Hold it about 5–8 mm from a clean metal ground (engine block)
• Crank engine

Result:​

• Strong blue snap spark → coil is OK
• Weak/yellow/no spark → coil, points, or condenser issue

---

2) Check distributor cap condition (this is #1 failure point)​

Remove cap and inspect inside carefully:
Look for:

• Hairline cracks (even tiny ones matter)
• Black carbon “lightning trails”
• Moisture / oily film
• Burnt center contact

Result:​

• Any tracking or cracks = cap is effectively “leaking voltage to ground”

---

3) Inspect rotor condition and fit​

Check:

• Tip is not burned or eroded
• Rotor is tight on shaft (no wobble)
• No cracking
• Correct alignment height inside cap

Key test:​

Rotate engine slowly and confirm rotor tip passes close to each terminal (not a big gap)

---

4) Check plug wires (hidden failure)​

Do this quick check:

• Pull each wire from cap
• Inspect for corrosion, green copper, or loose ends
• If possible, swap wires between cylinders

Simple test:​

• Crank engine and check if spark “moves” with wire swap → bad wire confirmed

---

5) Verify points operation (critical timing switch)​

Open distributor and check:

• Points should open and close sharply
• No heavy pitting or burning
• Correct gap (typically ~0.020" depending on spec)

Quick clue:​

• If points are black, burned, or not snapping cleanly → weak or no spark

---

6) Condenser check (common silent failure)​

Symptoms of bad condenser:

• Spark at points (arcing visible)
• Weak or inconsistent plug spark
• Engine may fire briefly then die

If in doubt → replacing it is often faster than testing

---

7) Mechanical distributor issues (less common but important)​

Check:

• Shaft wobble (bushing wear)
• Excess play in rotor
• Timing advance sticking

Any wobble = rotor-to-cap gap becomes inconsistent → misfire/no spark

---

Fast interpretation guide​

• Spark at coil BUT none at plugs → cap/rotor/wires
• Weak spark everywhere → points or condenser
• No spark at all → coil or no points switching
• Intermittent spark → moisture, cap tracking, or bad condenser

---

Key idea (this system’s weak point)​

On these engines, 90% of “no spark at plugs” problems are inside the distributor cap assembly, not the coil.

---

If you want, tell me what you found in Step 1 (coil spark or not), and I’ll narrow it down to the exact failing part in one or two more checks.

coil spark is sttrong but does not reach the sparkplugs via distributor

Good—that result is very useful. It tells us something important:
Your coil is fine. The failure is definitely inside the distributor (cap/rotor/plug distribution path), not the primary ignition.
On your 1969 Evinrude Triumph 55 HP 1969 outboard, when you have strong coil output but no plug spark, there are only a few realistic causes left.

---

​

 

[Crosbyman]

2nd part of documenet

Most likely causes (in order)​

1) Distributor cap is leaking or internally shorted (MOST COMMON)​

Even if it looks “okay,” it can still fail electrically.

What happens:​

High voltage enters cap → instead of going to plug terminals → it tracks to ground inside the cap

Signs:​

• Fine black lightning lines inside cap
• Hairline cracks (often invisible until cleaned/dried)
• Moisture or fuel/oil film
• Spark “disappears” when routed through cap

Quick confirmation test:​

If you get strong spark from coil wire, but nothing at any plug wire, cap is almost certainly bad.
In practice: replace cap first in 70–80% of these cases.

---

2) Rotor failure or incorrect clearance​

The rotor must physically “bridge” the spark to each terminal.

Problems:​

• Burned tip
• Rotor carbon tracking
• Rotor sitting too low/high
• Cracked rotor plastic
• Excess gap between rotor tip and cap terminals

What happens:​

Spark is produced but cannot jump rotor-to-cap terminal gap

---

3) Distributor shaft wobble / worn bushings​

Very common on older marine engines.

Effect:​

• Rotor does NOT stay centered under cap terminals
• Gap becomes too large at some positions
• Spark never consistently transfers

Quick test:​

Grab rotor and gently wiggle it side to side:

• Any noticeable movement = suspect

---

4) Plug wires or terminals not conducting​

Even if spark reaches cap terminals, it may not leave.
Check:

• Corroded plug wire ends
• Loose press-fit terminals
• Broken internal conductor

---

5) Cap-to-wire misrouting or internal misfire path​

Sometimes:

• Wrong firing order
• Crossed wires
• Carbon tracking between adjacent posts inside cap

---

Fast isolation test (very important)​

Do this:

1. Test coil output (you already did )​

Strong spark confirmed.

2. Now test EACH plug wire directly from cap:​

• Remove cap
• Insert coil wire into cap
• Hold each plug wire terminal 5–8 mm from ground
• Crank engine

Results:​

• No spark at any terminal → cap or rotor is bad
• Some spark, some not → rotor, cap tracking, or shaft alignment
• All strong → problem is downstream (unlikely in your case)

---

Key conclusion for your symptom​

You said:

“coil spark is strong but does not reach spark plugs via distributor”

That almost always means:

1) Distributor cap is internally breaking down​

OR

2) Rotor cannot transfer spark due to gap/wear​

---

What I would do first (no guessing)​

1. Replace distributor cap (even if it “looks fine”)
2. Inspect/replace rotor at same time
3. Check shaft wobble while you’re in there

These two parts solve most “coil good but no plug spark” cases on these engines.

---

If you want, I can walk you through a 2-minute bench test of the cap and rotor off the engine that will confirm failure before you buy parts.

ok

Here’s a 2-minute bench test that will confirm whether your distributor cap or rotor is the real failure point on your 1969 Evinrude Triumph 55 HP 1969 outboard.
This is a “no guessing, no parts swapping” test.

---

BENCH TEST: CAP + ROTOR (FAST CONFIRMATION)​

What you need​

• Distributor cap + rotor removed from engine
• Ohmmeter (optional but helpful)
• A known good spark source (your coil wire from Step 1)
• A metal screwdriver or ground strap

---

STEP 1 — “Direct arc test” (most important)​

Setup:​

1. Hold the coil high-tension wire about 5–10 mm from the center carbon button inside the cap.
2. Ground the cap body (touch metal edge to engine or jumper wire to ground).
3. Crank engine or trigger ignition.

What should happen:​

• Spark enters center of cap

Now observe:​

• Do you get spark jumping to any plug terminal inside cap?

---

Result A: Spark at center but NOTHING at terminals​

Cap is internally failed

• Carbon tracking inside
• Insulation breakdown
• Moisture or invisible cracks

Conclusion: Replace cap

---

Result B: Spark sometimes jumps, sometimes not​

Cap is partially tracking OR rotor gap issue
Likely:

• Internal carbon paths
• Dirty or damp cap
• Weak insulation breakdown under load

---

Result C: No transfer at all even though coil spark is strong​

Either:

• Cap is completely shorting internally
  OR
• Rotor is not aligned/too far from terminals

---

STEP 2 — ROTOR “alignment test”​

Check physically:​

Rotate rotor slowly inside cap position:
You should see:

• Rotor tip passes very close (a few mm) to each terminal

---

Bad signs:​

• Large gap between rotor tip and terminals
• Burned or eroded rotor tip
• Rotor wobble (up/down or side-to-side)

---

STEP 3 — SIMPLE ROTOR ARC TEST​

1. Hold rotor in place inside cap
2. Apply coil spark again
3. Watch rotor tip area

Result:​

• Spark should “jump” from rotor tip toward a terminal

---

If spark never jumps from rotor:​

Rotor is not transferring HV

• burned tip
• incorrect height
• cracked rotor
• misalignment

Replace rotor

---

WHAT THIS MEANS FOR YOUR SYMPTOM​

You already confirmed:
✔ Coil spark is strong
Nothing reaches plugs
So in real-world diagnosis:

80–90% chance: CAP is failing internally​

10–20% chance: ROTOR or shaft alignment issue​

---

PRACTICAL FIX ORDER (don’t overthink it)​

1. Replace distributor cap
2. Replace rotor at same time
3. Inspect shaft wobble while open
4. Re-test spark

---

Key insight (important on this engine)​

These older marine ignition caps often:

• look perfect externally
• but fail electrically under high voltage load

So “looks good” = not reliable evidence

 

[sad boater]

bad distributor.

---

​

Some of this information is incorrect The amplifier only provides 300 volts to the ignition coil and it's triggered by the points which is correct and I have checked this and I do have my 300 volt signal going to the ignition coil and the high voltage spark coming out of the ignition coil I know my problem is in my distributor. They call it infant mortality I bought a new part and it died instantly It worked for 10 seconds and now it doesn't The only possible thing that it could be is my distributor because no matter how I adjust my points I don't get any spark back anywhere if I adjust them in I lose my spark completely if I adjust them out it gets more sporadic meaning at the correct adjustment of .010 I have spark at 1 not strong enough, and nothing at two and three. So I have verified everything else is working It has to be my distributor.

 

[sad boater]

I mean do you even verify some of the information you share because it wants me to test the center post of my distributor if you knew anything about this distributor you would know it's a donut style and there is no center post to test so half of this testing stuff you provide is not proper just because you got it from AI, AI doesn't mean anything they're just as dumb as the rest of us humans I tried using AI and I had to correct it every time it told me the wrong information about my motor and then it would tell me oh yeah you're right. So yes I've done all those tests I've determined I either need a new distributor or I need to go sink my boat

 

[68glasspar]

Here's some things to consider!
You cleaned the points, but didn't replace them. I believe the points are tungsten and you really don't know how many times they have been filed or ground on and sprayed with what ever. To get all cylinders to fire you need both points operate correctly. I would replace the points with OE parts, you can still find them on Ebay. maybe only one set of points works, that why i suggested checking the ability of the points to ground at the wire coming out of the breaker plate.
Remove the broken spark plug wire terminals from your original dist. cap and try that cap on it.

 

[Crosbyman]

I agree and indicated some info was incorrect .... AI is not perfect and as you found some info is not correct. I would love to assist locally but that won't happen. Hopefully you will take what can be of helpful as you travel your yellow brick road but as famously said here many time " I can not see or hear or... your engine from here " .

Done my best but with diplomacy gradually eroding I will disengage and wish you a happy ending. When you do find and fix the problem for good.....do feedback so we can all become better helpers to faraway folks in meed of tips. that is our reward.

 

[sad boater]

Here's some things to consider!
You cleaned the points, but didn't replace them. I believe the points are tungsten and you really don't know how many times they have been filed or ground on and sprayed with what ever. To get all cylinders to fire you need both points operate correctly. I would replace the points with OE parts, you can still find them on Ebay. maybe only one set of points works, that why i suggested checking the ability of the points to ground at the wire coming out of the breaker plate.
Remove the broken spark plug wire terminals from your original dist. cap and try that cap on it.

I did look for new points on eBay and I thought about buying them because besides the points would have to be a bad new part. The ends of the points look smooth there's no pitting no grinding marks or anything. I honestly don't think the points are bad because I get 296 volts from my amplifier to my coil while cranking. Bad points would kill that wouldn't it? It ran for a 10 seconds or so, can points fail that quickly? If I adjust my points in or out of spec it changes my trigger signal. Is this not another sign they work? I also get open and closed signals with my ohm meter to the trigger wire and ground, is this not a third sign they are working? I have weak spark only on number one but beautiful spark from my coil. The spark from my coil is proof enough that the points are triggering the amplifier as designed which triggers the coil as designed (296v) producing a spark that is not being DISTRIBUTED to the cylinders. I have plenty of mechanical experience and this tells me the distributor is not working and yes this cam happen to new out of the box parts. If anything I said is incorrect please help me better understand why you believe the points need to be replaced.

 

[sad boater]

I agree and indicated some info was incorrect .... AI is not perfect and as you found some info is not correct. I would love to assist locally but that won't happen. Hopefully you will take what can be of helpful as you travel your yellow brick road but as famously said here many time " I can not see or hear or... your engine from here " .

Done my best but with diplomacy gradually eroding I will disengage and wish you a happy ending. When you do find and fix the problem for good.....do feedback so we can all become better helpers to faraway folks in meed of tips. that is our reward.

I wasn't trying to be rude. You kept supplying information not related to the engine at all, so all though you were trying to be helpful providing incorrect information provided by AI does not help at all. I do believe I have figured it out but I have to order another distributor to be sure. Racerone told me it was the rotor and after replacing it and no change he tapped out too. So if you don't know ya don't know. It's ok to say you don't know that's the whole purpose of this thread was that I had no idea. But now after all the research and testing and everything I did I understand more than AI about this motor.

 

[sad boater]

Here's some things to consider!
You cleaned the points, but didn't replace them. I believe the points are tungsten and you really don't know how many times they have been filed or ground on and sprayed with what ever. To get all cylinders to fire you need both points operate correctly. I would replace the points with OE parts, you can still find them on Ebay. maybe only one set of points works, that why i suggested checking the ability of the points to ground at the wire coming out of the breaker plate.
Remove the broken spark plug wire terminals from your original dist. cap and try that cap on it.

My dog got ahold of it so it now has a damaged plastic end where the boot goes. But I think I'm going to try it anyway if it acts any different I'll at least know it the distributor. Thank you

 

[racerone]

I worked at a dealer where we sold those motors NEW.-----Can rebuild engine and lower unit without using / needing a manual.

 

[Crosbyman]

if you have learned more than AI that is progress. I suggest you link up with chatgpt and being specific about the 69 55HP mdl yoy have, tell it what was the problem... what was done done and it will pass on your newly acquired knowledge for the rest of the planet. It learns !!

 

[sad boater]

Here's some things to consider!
You cleaned the points, but didn't replace them. I believe the points are tungsten and you really don't know how many times they have been filed or ground on and sprayed with what ever. To get all cylinders to fire you need both points operate correctly. I would replace the points with OE parts, you can still find them on Ebay. maybe only one set of points works, that why i suggested checking the ability of the points to ground at the wire coming out of the breaker plate.
Remove the broken spark plug wire terminals from your original dist. cap and try that cap on it.

Okay so I went ahead and swapped the distributor back out with the old one and the problem got even worse I get a flash on my timing light once every five or six rotations maybe. I really don't understand

 

[Mc Tool]

Well I learnt something ....I never would have expected the ignition to fire when the points close . That would have had held me up for a while .

 

[sad boater]

Opened closed I don't care. I can't figure it out and no shop will touch it. Rather than offering advice or tests you want to talk **** that's fine. I'm glad you are so super smart mr tool. I don't work anymore Im disabled at 45 so I thought a boat would be a fun toy. This one is a nightmare. Thank you for offering no advice whatsoever. You could just keep to yourself rather that try and rile people up. If your unhappy with your life go fishing, don't mess with people when they have problems.

 

[Crosbyman]

Well I learnt something ....I never would have expected the ignition to fire when the points close . That would have had held me up for a while .

firing on "CLOSING" (MAKING contact) is the way the Mercury PHASE MAKER ignition works. The 69 55hp is the same... CDI fires by simply tapping the control wire to grd to fire the plugs... which is what the points do.
It is in a way.... damaging to the points as explained in the following document ( arcing .....dirty...... but even dirty points will work fine being subjected to a capacitor discharge around 400 volts

enjoy!

https://wrcoutboards.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/02/The-Phase-Maker-CDI.pdf

 

[Mc Tool]

firing on "CLOSING" (MAKING contact) is the way the Mercury PHASE MAKER ignition works. The 69 55hp is the same... CDI fires by simply tapping the control wire to grd to fire the plugs... which is what the points do.
It is in a way.... damaging to the points as explained in the following document ( arcing .....dirty...... but even dirty points will work fine being subjected to a capacitor discharge around 400 volts

enjoy!

https://wrcoutboards.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/02/The-Phase-Maker-CDI.pdf

Yeah , it makes sense when I think about it

 

[Mc Tool]

Opened closed I don't care. I can't figure it out and no shop will touch it. Rather than offering advice or tests you want to talk **** that's fine. I'm glad you are so super smart mr tool. I don't work anymore Im disabled at 45 so I thought a boat would be a fun toy. This one is a nightmare. Thank you for offering no advice whatsoever. You could just keep to yourself rather that try and rile people up. If your unhappy with your life go fishing, don't mess with people when they have problems.

Yeah me to ,I got taken out at 46 (14/06/2009)....havnt worked since ...now 63 , came over the brow of a humpy back hill on my Ducati to find someone reversing back up the hill ...slammed into him at 120km/h-ish broke both S A joints ,right hip socket ,I could see my femur sticking out of my motorbike pants ,broke rh tib and fib , all the bones in my right foot , lacerated liver ,ruptured right kidney , spleen ascending colon and tore small intestine ,had a end ileostomy and a bag to 5hit in , ruptured diaphram ,broke 5 ribs and punctured rh lung . Nearly didnt make it . After 29 separate opps I had right leg amputated above knee . Then I find out the driver had already killed someone else driving like a #uckwitt. I dont have ptsd but my partner does ...still getting treatment /medication for it .
So what else you got you pratt ....stop feeling sorry for yourself .
Im definitely out this time, kiss my ass
Edit
PS, Oops ,forgot about the 4 broken vertebrae ,the 5 plates and 24 screws in my pelvis