1981 Springbok 18' Restoration/Renovation

[SlipperyOar]

They just use stainless wood screws, #14 I think. Pre drill the holes, and run the screws in. Trying to use T nuts would require way too much precision. You would have to dry fit the floor, take it back out, put the nuts on the bottom, and put everything back in without any shifting at all. They always shift a bit.

good to know, i figured it needed a bolted connection to hold the pedestal base secure with the forces exerted on it while riding. It's got 6 mounting holes so the forces should be spread out quite well. Last thing i want is for the seat to rip out from the floor. I've got 1/8" aluminum angle for the subfloor beneath 4/6 of the holes so if i add another piece beneath the last two holes itll be secured into the floor and subfloor.

 

[MikeSchinlaub]

I've got 1/8" aluminum angle for the subfloor beneath 4/6 of the holes so if i add another piece beneath the last two holes itll be secured into the floor and subfloor.

That sounds pretty good to me, as long as you don't drill the holes in the angle too big. Are the angles in the front pedestal holes? Those will take the most force from the seat pulling back, so they should have the widest force dispersal you can get.

 

[SlipperyOar]

That sounds pretty good to me, as long as you don't drill the holes in the angle too big. Are the angles in the front pedestal holes? Those will take the most force from the seat pulling back, so they should have the widest force dispersal you can get.

the angles are beneath the front 2 and back two currently, but its a 10 minute job to trim another piece and rivet into the subfloor frame for the middle two. The big goal of this whole build was to make it a way that can be modified without starting over.