I had the same problem on my old 4.3, but it ran fine for 2.5 seasons before getting a bit of water in the front 2 cyls.
I checked the block deck with a straight edge and feeler gauges as per GM specs (no more than .003" variation) after really cleaning up the block deck surfaces. I took the cyl heads to a local hot rod/machine shop and they found that both had cracks in the center cyl exhaust valve seat areas. And due to raw water cooling in salt water and erosion of the cooling passages (which could rot through and cause a hydrolock) they advised replacing the cyl heads with reman heads. So that's what I did, like 9 years ago. Turned out to be a good deal, still running well, no water in the oil, etc. Total cost was $100 for gaskets, $100 for head bolts, and $550 for cyl heads. The thing that takes the longest is cleaning especially the cyl head bolt holes. These must be clean to get accurate torque when you install the heads.