Showing my Tri-axle Trailer some TLC . . .

[Scott Danforth]

Trailer bearings are cheaper than a 12 pack

 

[tphoyt]

I did the brakes on a friends BMW a few years ago I was doing it for free so I told him
I needed 24 bucks to download the software for his car on the scan tool and he didn’t want to pay it because he’s a cheap donky. So he sent me a YouTube link to get around it. It did work but the parking brake light wouldn’t go off after that. He was convinced I did something wrong so he took it to a mechanic and told them I screwed it up and wanted them to check my work. They said it all looks good they needed to reset the computer with a scan tool.
That set him back $150.

 

[nola mike]

@tpenfield , this is the VW, not the Mini. However, get deepobd (android, probably iphone too). Unbelievably powerful, unbelievably complicated (and it helps if you speak German), and free. I can figure out a lot of the actuator functions and need to spend more time figuring out programming without bricking my car. Works well on BMW, supposed to work with VW as well. I will admit that had I had the newer fancy model it would have saved me the time of manually disconnecting the brakes and I could have changed the rotors without removing the carrier or manually retracting the pistons. Probably would have been a good deal quicker.

 

[Scott06]

I miss the days when you could take the drums and rotors to just about any auto parts store and have them turned for a few dollars.

Yeah same here I have a stack or rotors in the garage waiting for me to find a brake lathe on market place.

 

[Scott06]

@tpenfield , this is the VW, not the Mini. However, get deepobd (android, probably iphone too). Unbelievably powerful, unbelievably complicated (and it helps if you speak German), and free. I can figure out a lot of the actuator functions and need to spend more time figuring out programming without bricking my car. Works well on BMW, supposed to work with VW as well. I will admit that had I had the newer fancy model it would have saved me the time of manually disconnecting the brakes and I could have changed the rotors without removing the carrier or manually retracting the pistons. Probably would have been a good deal quicker.

We just got rid of our mini. In a final parting shot the radiator started leaking, which requires the front fascia to be removed. Hands down the most maintenace i have ever had to do on a car, and we only put 50 k miles on it (74 to 115 k) over 6-8 years.

 

[nola mike]

We just got rid of our mini. In a final parting shot the radiator started leaking, which requires the front fascia to be removed. Hands down the most maintenace i have ever had to do on a car, and we only put 50 k miles on it (74 to 115 k) over 6-8 years.

Mine's actually been OK for the most part so far. Only big issue was the clutch at 80k miles, which was a nightmare to replace. My a/c computer might be able to be reprogrammed, but the software and hardware needed would be more than buying a used one (but then I have to take the dash apart). The turbo is of course a huge pain to get to, and the wastegate (which i think is more likely the issue than the actual turbo) is not officially replaceable, requiring a whole turbo replacement. Going to lob a parts grenade at it this weekend, diverter valve which is easy to get to and I got a chinesium version for $20. If not that than I start proper troubleshooting...
7 years, 60k miles by me so far (105k total).

 

[Scott06]

Mine's actually been OK for the most part so far. Only big issue was the clutch at 80k miles, which was a nightmare to replace. My a/c computer might be able to be reprogrammed, but the software and hardware needed would be more than buying a used one (but then I have to take the dash apart). The turbo is of course a huge pain to get to, and the wastegate (which i think is more likely the issue than the actual turbo) is not officially replaceable, requiring a whole turbo replacement. Going to lob a parts grenade at it this weekend, diverter valve which is easy to get to and I got a chinesium version for $20. If not that than I start proper troubleshooting...
7 years, 60k miles by me so far (105k total).

Timing chain and valves seals were a MF on mine. The biggest chit show was the constant cooling system leaks. Replace all the plastic components except the water pipe behind the engine / below the intake. Basically new car came my way when my dad passed in feb so ended up giving it to our friends kid (known them for 20 years) who just totaled his first car via a deer. he and his dad are handy, they tried to give me $ for it which no way I was taking any money for it. Glad yours is better, no way I could see buying another one

 

[froggy1150]

I just bought a TOPDON 1. $8 bills. Seems to everything but tpms/keys. Was another 400 for that. We'll worth the money in time savings alone. I bought it to do some charity work for sons girlfriends mom. Saved her 2500.00

 

[tpenfield]

speaking of trailer brakes . . .

I'm getting close, but the starboard side wheels are needing more TLC than the other side., which is done.
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The hardest part was putting on the dust caps .

Now that I'm nearing completion, I have come to realize how the caliper slide mechanism is supposed to work. It is captive in the axle abutment top & bottom, (arrows) but it is a really tight fit. I had to pound them in with a rubber hammer. Not much opportunity to the caliper to 'slide' over the rotor. but I guess I'll see how they work and tweak accordingly.
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It looks like an all-stainless set-up would be about $1,200 per axle ($3,600 total). Probably not going to happen right away.

Once those Dacromet coated rotors age a little but, they rust just by looking at them . . . More show than go IMO.

 

[Lou C]

Ted they make special tools for removing & installing those dust caps that work well! I finally bought them after years of improvisation!
About the rotors yep that’s what I see here too only stainless seem to last.

 

[Scott Danforth]

a rinse with salt-away after every dip sure does help

 

[tphoyt]

I use the Permatex ceramic on the slide pins.
It’s the pupe stuff. It makes a big difference on how well the calipers slide.

 

[tpenfield]

I got all the wheels back on and pulled the trailer out of its parking area for better access.
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New bearing caps . . . the rear wheel on the right blew out the rubber insert on the way over to the re-power shop and spewed its grease out all over the wheel. One thing that I did not realize is without the cap and rubber insert, the bearings are exposed more than I'd like. These are the 'posi-lube' type axles, so the grease zerk is at the tip of the axle and the grease flows from the back bearing to the front.

When I towed the boat from the re-power shop (July 17th) I noticed the tongue weight felt a wee bit light (measured @ 600 lbs). My plan was to move the cow catcher (bow stop) forward a few inches to bring the tongue weight up. Looks like the spacing is perfect for such a move.
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All set . . . I hope to be 700 lbs +/-
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One thing that I did not realize was that the brake lines are all rubber type . . . not just the flex lines at the calipers.
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I am wondering if this amount of flex line is detracting from the brake pressure that makes it to the calipers . . .

Thoughts . . . .

Anyway, I'm going to bleed the brakes and hope for the best. Then head to the beach for some Friday afternoon beers.

 

[nola mike]

I got all the wheels back on and pulled the trailer out of its parking area for better access.
.
View attachment 418900
.
New bearing caps . . . the rear wheel on the right blew out the rubber insert on the way over to the re-power shop and spewed its grease out all over the wheel. One thing that I did not realize is without the cap and rubber insert, the bearings are exposed more than I'd like. These are the 'posi-lube' type axles, so the grease zerk is at the tip of the axle and the grease flows from the back bearing to the front.

When I towed the boat from the re-power shop (July 17th) I noticed the tongue weight felt a wee bit light (measured @ 600 lbs). My plan was to move the cow catcher (bow stop) forward a few inches to bring the tongue weight up. Looks like the spacing is perfect for such a move.
.
View attachment 418898
.
All set . . . I hope to be 700 lbs +/-
.
View attachment 418899
.
One thing that I did not realize was that the brake lines are all rubber type . . . not just the flex lines at the calipers.
.
View attachment 418901
.
View attachment 418902
.
I am wondering if this amount of flex line is detracting from the brake pressure that makes it to the calipers . . .

Thoughts . . . .

Anyway, I'm going to bleed the brakes and hope for the best. Then head to the beach for some Friday afternoon beers.

That seems sketchy, but don't know much about trailer brake systems. Wondering if original had steel and someone cheaped out on the replacement. Also, aren't you towing this thing like 5 miles/year?