Milky oil

[SeaRayboater95]

Fore you pull the intake do the pressure test with the spark plugs out you may have a bad head gasket That is leaking into a combustion chamber thru and open intake valve and out the intake .
I would at least pull the exhaust elbows and look in the manifolds for evidence de of leakage

Will do. Got the first oil change done. In the middle of the second one. Will do one more, then pull the elbows.

Thanks

Ken

 

[SeaRayboater95]

Depending on if it’s just water in the oil but not in the cyls, or it’s water in the oil and in the cylinders. If you have no oil in the cyls but water in the oil it’s not likely to be exhaust but possible a bad intake gasket, rotted intake water passage, blown head gasket(s) or cracked cyl heads or block.

So far, I have not seen any water in the cylinders. When I did the tune up, last week before I discovered the milkshake, I had all the plugs out and didn't see any water. I only pulled #6 today, and there was no water in it. I have not put water to it since Saturday morning. Now I'm doing multiple oil changes without water. I'll do a pressure test without plugs and see where that leads me.

Thanks,

Ken

 

[nola mike]

I can’t see how even a leaky intake gasket would put air into the fuel/air passage in the manifold but I can see how a crack in a cyl head in a cooling passage right near the intake port (behind an intake valve) might.

Hmm. I didn't get that air was coming through the carb, just that OP heard air on the intake side. In which case could still conceivably be a gasket or intake leak, no? But agree that if it's actually in the air intake portion of the manifold. Maybe take the carb off and block it there as well and retest?

 

[SeaRayboater95]

Hmm. I didn't get that air was coming through the carb, just that OP heard air on the intake side. In which case could still conceivably be a gasket or intake leak, no? But agree that if it's actually in the air intake portion of the manifold. Maybe take the carb off and block it there as well and retest?

I don't understand what blocking off carb would show. I put 15lbs to the hose coming from the power steering cool to pressurize the water jacket. I would think, not being as knowledgeable as you guys, that would suggest and intake or head gasket issue, no? I stuck a tube down the carb and could hear air moving in there. Going to do last oil change, then pull plugs and pressurize water jacket again and see if air is moving in there.

Ken

 

[nola mike]

I don't understand what blocking off carb would show. I put 15lbs to the hose coming from the power steering cool to pressurize the water jacket. I would think, not being as knowledgeable as you guys, that would suggest and intake or head gasket issue, no? I stuck a tube down the carb and could hear air moving in there. Going to do last oil change, then pull plugs and pressurize water jacket again and see if air is moving in there.

Ken

Just to make sure it's actually coming through the carb and you're not hearing it leak somewhere else. Like Lou said, the intake runners are what's connected to the carb, not the cooling passages. HG could do it. BUT, air in the intake port should = water in the cylinders.

 

[Scott06]

if water is getting in the combustion chambers they will be steam cleaned while running plug will be washed clean as well.

 

[SeaRayboater95]

Just to make sure it's actually coming through the carb and you're not hearing it leak somewhere else. Like Lou said, the intake runners are what's connected to the carb, not the cooling passages. HG could do it. BUT, air in the intake port should = water in the cylinders.

10-fur! I get ya. I don't seem to have water in the cylinders. Could be I'm just hear air moving around. I hear something similar in the exhaust manifold at #6 hole.

I got the elbows off and elbows and exhaust look good. No corrosion and no obvious cracks. Although on of those gaskets don't look too good. I guess pull the intake?

I guess Ill do a leak down test first.

Ken

 

[SeaRayboater95]

if water is getting in the combustion chambers they will be steam cleaned while running plug will be washed clean as well.

Doesn't seem to be any evidence of water in the cylinders.

 

[Lou C]

Look down in the bottom of the center exhaust passage, do you see any sign of rust there?
Hearing air in the fuel/air passages in the intake suggests air is getting into a place where it shouldn't be getting in that test, and that means water could d the same thing.
A leak in the intake would put water in the cam valley. Fresh water boat, I doubt that the intake is rotted under the thermostat housing. Could be bad gaskets, but that's not what is causing what you heard in this test, I think.

 

[SeaRayboater95]

Look down in the bottom of the center exhaust passage, do you see any sign of rust there?
Hearing air in the fuel/air passages in the intake suggests air is getting into a place where it shouldn't be getting in that test, and that means water could d the same thing.
A leak in the intake would put water in the cam valley. Fresh water boat, I doubt that the intake is rotted under the thermostat housing. Could be bad gaskets, but that's not what is causing what you heard in this test, I think.

Thanks for your input. I dont see evedence ow water in either the elbows or the exhaust manifolds.Wish I new more about this stuff. I guess I'll pull the intake. Really don't want to pull heads.

Ken

 

[alldodge]

Please note that just because one of us says something, this does not mean they are truly understanding of all the issues being conveyed.

Many here including myself have made mistakes and just because those voicing their opinions more often or more loudly means nothing as to weather they actually know exactly your issue.

Maybe in my opinion only, I think you have an intake issue. Blocking off the carb will not help solve the issue, only spend more time finding the issue(s).

Right now you need to protect the motor, so get clean oil in to displace the water or take the motor apart to clean and do the same. It all depends on what your willing to do now.

If it was mine I would have already pulled the motor and taken it apart. So choose your method and stick to it

 

[Lou C]

When I had my water in the oil problem, I figured out a way to run the engine on the water hose briefly to check for combustion gas getting into the cooling water. At first I didn't see anything but after running it enough to warm up sure enough I saw bubbles, a sure sign of a blown head gasket or cracked head.
You can do this by replacing the exhaust manifold feed hoses with clear hose and running the boat in the water, after the engine warms and the stat opens, if you see bubbles in the water stream, it definitely could be that.
I do think you will wind up pulling the heads. BTW it was harder to get my original intake off than it was to get the heads off! Not the bolts per se but the old OEM gaskets were baked on that intake like Kryptonite. It took 2 days of tapping, prying (carefully) cussing, etc to get it to break free. The heads, once I got the 13 bolts out per side, came right off!
You will have to inspect the block deck carefully for any burn through if it was a blown HG, and the heads have to go to an automotive machine shop to get checked for cracks. I wound up replacing mine. Just let the owner know how much labor time this is, because on an older marine engine there's no telling how long it will take to get things apart. Here in the salt pond mechanics just won't do it. Too many pitfalls and took risky if you are trying to make money. I did it and it worked out fine for me though.
after 2 days of prying:

used up a battery or 2 on my 1/2 drive De Walt getting all 13 head bolts out per side:

and as it turns out wound up buying a pair of these from my local speed shop (S-K Speed in Lindenhurst, Long Island NY).

 

[SeaRayboater95]

Right now you need to protect the motor, so get clean oil in to displace the water or take the motor apart to clean and do the same. It all depends on what your willing to do

I appreciate all the input. I have flushed the motor 3 times and the last didn't produce any water. I enjoy reading all experience that is contained in these post. Thanks to every one that has commented. It all has value!!

Ken

 

[SeaRayboater95]

When I had my water in the oil problem, I figured out a way to run the engine on the water hose briefly to check for combustion gas getting into the cooling water. At first I didn't see anything but after running it enough to warm up sure enough I saw bubbles, a sure sign of a blown head gasket or cracked head.
You can do this by replacing the exhaust manifold feed hoses with clear hose and running the boat in the water, after the engine warms and the stat opens, if you see bubbles in the water stream, it definitely could be that.
I do think you will wind up pulling the heads. BTW it was harder to get my original intake off than it was to get the heads off! Not the bolts per se but the old OEM gaskets were baked on that intake like Kryptonite. It took 2 days of tapping, prying (carefully) cussing, etc to get it to break free. The heads, once I got the 13 bolts out per side, came right off!
You will have to inspect the block deck carefully for any burn through if it was a blown HG, and the heads have to go to an automotive machine shop to get checked for cracks. I wound up replacing mine. Just let the owner know how much labor time this is, because on an older marine engine there's no telling how long it will take to get things apart. Here in the salt pond mechanics just won't do it. Too many pitfalls and took risky if you are trying to make money. I did it and it worked out fine for me though.
after 2 days of prying:
View attachment 419771
used up a battery or 2 on my 1/2 drive De Walt getting all 13 head bolts out per side:
View attachment 419772
and as it turns out wound up buying a pair of these from my local speed shop (S-K Speed in Lindenhurst, Long Island NY).
View attachment 419773

Thanks for this. I'm not trying to make money here. Trying to help someone I know, but trying to get some of my time covered. I'm not an expert by any means and learning as I go, so I'm not asking a high dollar for my time, You guys are a big help. I likey will pull the heads and get them check out.

Ken

 

[SeaRayboater95]

Well, got I got the intake off and nothing jumps out at me. Guess I'll have to pull heads and check gaskets. I'll send the head for pressure test and and resurface if necessary.

ken

 

[Lou C]

Looks like a Pre-Vortec 12 bolt intake, those don't tend to leak as much as the Vortecs, which needed the updated improved intake gaskets.

 

[SeaRayboater95]

Looks like a Pre-Vortec 12 bolt intake, those don't tend to leak as much as the Vortecs, which needed the updated improved intake gaskets.

That's curious. The intake hias 12 bolts, but the valve covers say" V6 Vortec".

Ken

 

[SeaRayboater95]

Have a suspicious rust trail, but don't think I see a crack. Opinions please?

 

[SeaRayboater95]

Ok, last stuff for you guys to review. Heads are off and I'm not seeing anything conclusive, where I can tell my customer what exactly is going on. Starboard shutter was missing, elbow gaskets weren't great, intake gaskets weren't great and I don't see anything obvious on the head or head gaskets. Also, I don't see any cracks anywhere. One valve stem was oily and gunked up. Good idea to get heads checked for leaks and get them shaved? I was thinking I would pull the valves and do seals and lap them so they seal a little better. During leak down I didn't hear any air into water jacket, but some into exhaust and carb. Still, some advice and opinions would be awesome. Anything else to check for water intrusion?

 

[Scott06]

That's curious. The intake hias 12 bolts, but the valve covers say" V6 Vortec".

Ken

Chevy used the Vortec name on 4.3 s before coming out with the vortec head deisgn on both 4.3 and 5.0/5.7 engines in 1996. So common to see Vortec on valve covers I think in 94-95 with the older style 12 bolt intake.

later in 90 s evry engine Chevy made it trucks was called Vortec. The head were a super good design and gave more power Then previous heads. A common upgrade if you need new heads.