1996 OMC Cobra / Volvo SX gaskets

[Lpgc]

I worry about even using 25ftlbs torque on the nuts to pull the drive on because the clamping force is a lot higher than the 25lbs... so if something isn't right it could damage it?

 

[Lou C]

I bet the guys in shop get it "close" and then wham it on with an impact gun (cringe)!
There used to be a very knowledgeable Merc tech on here (AChris?) who posted vids of how he got Merc Alphas on, he used a strategy called the Mercruiser Kick.... yes, he put on a boot and kicked the end of the upper gear housing to get it to go IIRC lol...I think he jokingly said he used a Mercruiser approved boot, does anyone else remember that?
We OMC/Volvo guys are a bit more genteel, we sweet talk our drives to sliding on, violence usually doesn't work too well lol.

 

[Lpgc]

I'll try tghtening the middle nuts without using much torque/force, see if I can judge if it's pulling on OK or something is stopping it. Then do as I said and put the drive in gear, disable engine ignition and crank the engine to see if the prop turns... Unless you/anyone thinks that's a bad idea?

 

[Lpgc]

Would it be possible to have the splined shaft through the gimble bearing... but either the end of it miss the coupler splines (so dig into the rubber on the coupler) or for there still to be some kind of problem with Ujoint alignment, while the drive still seems to pull on OK? I just don't want to mess anything up by pulling the drive on that final bit or especially when I crank the engine. If the end of the splied shaft were digging into the coupler rubber or if the Ujoints were not in correct alignment it could cause a lot of damage if I crank the engine.

 

[Lou C]

I'll try tghtening the middle nuts without using much torque/force, see if I can judge if it's pulling on OK or something is stopping it. Then do as I said and put the drive in gear, disable engine ignition and crank the engine to see if the prop turns... Unless you/anyone thinks that's a bad idea?

I'd at least tighten all 6 to 25 ft lbs, and honestly I have some years not even used a torque wrench, just get it good and tight, and never has a problem doing it that way. Even 50 ft lbs isn't that much.

 

[Lou C]

Would it be possible to have the splined shaft through the gimble bearing... but either the end of it miss the coupler splines (so dig into the rubber on the coupler) or for there still to be some kind of problem with Ujoint alignment, while the drive still seems to pull on OK? I just don't want to mess anything up by pulling the drive on that final bit or especially when I crank the engine. If the end of the splied shaft were digging into the coupler rubber or if the Ujoints were not in correct alignment it could cause a lot of damage if I crank the engine.

If the splined shaft didn't go in the coupler the drive won't even be close to going on, either it's going in, or not but if not, you won't even be able to get the mount holes on the drive onto the studs. I forget how many inches of the driveshaft is actually in the coupler splines but it's probably about 2", maybe a bit more.

 

[Horigan]

I made a dolly cart from a $14 Harbor Freight cart, adding 2x6s to build a structure the drive will sit on. You need to be able to get your hands into the bellows and on the U-joint to hold it up and centered, even with the splines started, while you wiggle the U-joint while pushing the drive/cart in.
Dolly Cart

 

[Lou C]

Post up a pic of the way you are supporting the drive, from the side, let's see what is happening there.
I have also heard of people modifying motorcycle jacks to lift outdrives.
Anything it better than trying to man-handle it on, that's a sure recipe for frustration and back pain.

 

[Lou C]

I made a dolly cart from a $14 Harbor Freight cart, adding 2x6s to build a structure the drive will sit on. You need to be able to get your hands into the bellows and on the U-joint to hold it up and centered, even with the splines started, while you wiggle the U-joint while pushing the drive/cart in.
Dolly Cart

Yep but be careful with your hands in there because it can all of a sudden slight right in, on your finger lol. I use the long thin screwdriver to hold up the double cardan assembly.

 

[Lpgc]

Sorry it's been a while since I posted, I had to break off from the boat when a customer arrived

But I got the drive back on just before the customer arived! It took hardly any torque on the middle nuts to pull it on. I know this customer well, so after I'd sorted his car (Jeep SRT8) I put the drive in gear and asked him to watch the prop shaft while I cranked the engine, it's turning OK so I doubt there can be much wrong with it.

It's dark here now but I'll take a pic of how I supported the drive tomorrow. I haven't finished torquing the nuts fully, then I'll need to reconnect the shift link, put some gear oil in it (I drained the drive before removal), attach the rams and fit the prop.

Maybe take the boat to the river one time before I winterise it just to make sure it's good to go for next season.

Thanks for your help