1956 Evinrude Big Twin

myabuttz

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i have a 1956 Evinrude Big Twin 30 HP and I am just now fixing the lower unit, had not been run in 30 yrs. and had water in it, but anyway, When I do fire it up How do I turn it off?, all that I see on the lever is fast, start, shift, and slow, the only i can think of turning it off is by choking it, Is that what you have to do?<br /><br />PS does anybody know where I can pickup free manuals for this thing? oh yea, what is the correct fuel/oil mix 50:1?
 

Paul Moir

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Re: 1956 Evinrude Big Twin

Welcome to the board, Corey.<br /><br />On that engine, there's no kill switch. You simply lower the throttle until it shuts off (stalls). In an emergency, covering the carb throat with your hand will work.<br />It is a simple matter to add a kill switch, if you ever want one.<br />The only place to get a free manual is your local library. Chances are they have one. Keep an eye on ebay, often you see OEM manuals going pretty cheap. <br /><br />Oh, the original fuel mix was 24:1 in that engine. Best plug is a Champion J6C, gapped at 0.030"<br /><br />Good luck! Read this about fuel mix.<br /><br />EDIT: When I fixed up my Big Twin LU, I was able to get replacement bearings from my local bearing house much cheaper than anywhere else. Reverse bearing (in my case) was a 6200 series metric ball bearing (common and cheap as dirt), and they had the timken tapered forward bearing for about $40CND.
 

rolmops

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Re: 1956 Evinrude Big Twin

Hello.<br />That engine is shut off by pulling the choke,so it says in my owners manual.As for fuel oil mix,it states that you use a good quality SAE 30 engine oil and mix it at 1:24.However you should use Two Cycle oil for Water cooled engines(TCW-3)and with that type of oil you can go up 1:32 maximum and absolutely no leaner for you will ruin your engine
 

myabuttz

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Re: 1956 Evinrude Big Twin

Hey, thanks, it helped, but are you sure i said to use SAE 30 Engine oil? that just sounds weird, what plug were you talking about? I probly woudn't ask so many dumb Q.s if i had a manual, Have to buy one I guess,,,,,,,,,Oh yea, is there some secret to getting the gearcase on the L.U. apart, I have just about stripped the heads, then i tried Blaster PB and got only 3 out, anything helps
 

Paul Moir

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Re: 1956 Evinrude Big Twin

Oh, I thought those worked like the 3hps. Thanks rolmops. <br />The only reason we're mentioning SAE 30, is some of the motor covers and manuals will tell you to mix that. It will work fine, like it did in 1956. But today we also have TCW-III oils and they work better. Rolmops says you can go to 32:1 with it, and you can bet he's right.<br /><br />As for taking apart the L/U - that's got slot screws holding the gearcase together, right? If you're going to work on that outboard, you want an impact screwdriver. It whacks the screw while turning it. Plus they normally come with bitts that fit those screws well. <br />Judicious application of heat will also help. Get some from a propane or mapp torch. Oxygen-anything only if you are very experienced with it, or you'll melt the housing. Stuck screws and bolts are what fixing old outboards is all about, and you'll get good at removing them. <br /><br />That and telling when they're just about to shear. :( <br /><br />Finally, find yourself a manual. Go to the library and borrow one, while you wait for the one you order from this site to arrive. :) Sometimes you see original OEM ones come up on ebay, currently I only see parts manuals for your engine though. If you want an OEM reprint, you can get one from kencook.com, but they're pricey.<br /><br /> <br />Actually, firstly find yourself a manual. They are insanely useful.
 

rolmops

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Re: 1956 Evinrude Big Twin

In 1956 there was much less choice in oils,that is why the advice was sae 30."Make sure the plug is in" is my signature, so just ignore it.The secret to taking the lower unit apart is made up of three things.Penetrating oil.A good torch to heat up the bolts and lots of patience.If the engine was used in salt water a few prayers might help as well.
 

alcan

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Re: 1956 Evinrude Big Twin

Hi Corey<br />Get yourself an impact driver. This is a tool that you put a bit or socket on one end and hit with a hammer on the other. These tools are very inexpencive. I think you can get a cheep model for $10-$15. Paul gives good advice go to the library for a manual. If your motor does not have a ground spring under to the back of the stator plate(this kills the motor when you twist the grip to stop). Then you will defenately want to wire a kill button/switch. During test running this model in the tank keep a shop rag handy. This will be a good emergency stopping tool. These motors can run away. If this occurs stuff the rag in the carb. Be sure to test the vacuume cut out switch. As for the oil use tcwIII rated 2-stroke oil at 24:1. The SAE30 non-detergent was an option in the fifties. It is not necessary now nor was it then either. Not unless you were taking a trip up the Amazon and ran out of 2-stroke oil. I'm not a chemist but I'd be willing to bet that TCWIII is just 30wt with a little TCP added to it. Now what is TCP? Tom cat urine.
 

rwise

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Re: 1956 Evinrude Big Twin

Corey L.<br />look on the side of the leg for a window with 2 screws in it. Remove the screws and open the window, there will be a shifting linkage connection behind it. remove the lower screw, thats the only hiden screw I know of, I don't have a manual here (at work).<br />Richard
 

myabuttz

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Re: 1956 Evinrude Big Twin

Hey thanks guys, it looks like I'm going to have to buy an impact driver, I had an Inpact wrench but I think someone broke into my shop and took it. but there was no signs of B and E
 

cajun555

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Re: 1956 Evinrude Big Twin

Corey L, I' got a 1956 30 hp Johnson and thats the way you kill motor is by choking the carb, either by pulling out on choke or in my case mines got an electric choke and the instructions on dash say push choke to stop motor. If you plan on keeping the motor get the manuel. Ipurchased the same one you need right off this site. Good luck.
 

myabuttz

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Re: 1956 Evinrude Big Twin

hey guys, do you know where I can buy an impact driver, all i can find in stores are impact wrenches, those would be ok if i could find a flathead screwdriver bit.
 

Paul Moir

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Re: 1956 Evinrude Big Twin

Sears <br /><br /> Harbour Freight <br /> <br />I don't know what you folks have down there for stores. I was looking at a basket of them for $5 each at a local cheapy tool place that I know work well. Make certain it takes 5/16ths bits, not the weeny 1/4" ones. NAPA's supposed to have them but sometimes deny it.<br /><br />Good luck!
 

myabuttz

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Re: 1956 Evinrude Big Twin

hey,<br /> Well I have good news and bad news, the good news is that i used an impact hammer to get the LU apart. :) The bad news, the gearcase was filled with crud- rust flakes and old oil + water. the gear right off the drive shaft is stuck and the drive unit gears are rusted up too :( anybody know where i can get new ones or some other way to get it un stuck, Blaster PB maybe? :rolleyes: and then how do you get that driveshaft gear out, There's like no room to get any tools around it, wait maybe a flywheel puller, I don't know, Please Help :confused:
 

alcan

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Re: 1956 Evinrude Big Twin

I wish I could see a picture of what you have there. It's hard to say with out a look. You know, most of the time those rusty crusty gears can be saved. just clean them up with solvent and a wire brush. The bearings are another story. Most of the time they are shot. This will depend on how bad things really are, not on how bad they look. You may have to press the gears off of the prop shaft.
 

myabuttz

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Re: 1956 Evinrude Big Twin

hi, well I can get pics. of it, and how would I go about getting the gears of the prop shaft(what tools)
 

myabuttz

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Re: 1956 Evinrude Big Twin

Oh yeah, what type spark plugs can I use in it?
 

alcan

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Re: 1956 Evinrude Big Twin

Hi Corey<br />The Gears should slide off the the propshaft. the forward gear would slide of the front of the shaft and the rear off the rear (prop end). Depending on how knarly this rascal is is going to depend on what you do. Or even if it is worth messing with. There are bronze bushings between the gears and the shaft. I would start with soaking it mess in solvent. Then either use a press and push the shaft out. If you don't have this equiptment use you imagineation and figgure something out. So long as you don't hurt your self. It doesn't sound like you need to worry about hurting the rest of the stuff. Salvage what you can and call it a win.
 

rolmops

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Re: 1956 Evinrude Big Twin

Around here you can get WD40 by the gallon.Why dont you put a gallon in a can and set the thing in there so it is completely covered with this stuff and leave it in there for a few days.Then take it out and attack it with a steel brush dunking it every minute or so,so you can see your progress.Don't worry about the ball bearings on the prop shaft.They are easily replaced and readily available in any store that deals with bearings.Although everything should just slide off, a gear puller works great at pulling the different parts off.If you try a hammer you might damage the clutch dog.If for any reason you cannot get wd40,fill a bucket with diesel fuel and let it sit in there a few days.It is not as good as wd40 but as long as you have it dunked and kept under the diesel, it will penetrate.
 

myabuttz

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Feb 8, 2004
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Re: 1956 Evinrude Big Twin

hey, thanks, looks like i need to get WD-40, update you l8r to tell you how it goes
 

myabuttz

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Feb 8, 2004
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Re: 1956 Evinrude Big Twin

never mind my spark plug post and I just read through again and Paul Moir already gave me one <br />sorry y'all ;)
 
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