At the end of my rope

RetNav

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Aug 14, 2003
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758
To recap, I have a 26' Dusky with twin 1990 model 200 hp evinrudes. I have been having the same problem on the port engine for some time now. Both engines have the same sized ss prop. From the hole shot to wot the starboard engine gets it. It will get to 6000 real quick while the port engine seems to be struggling to get to around 4500-5000. Even after getting on plane the port still won't turn but about 4800 rpm. There is strong fire on all six, new stator, trigger base checked out, carbs cleaned and linc and synch done. Both engines have about the same compression, a little over 100 lbs. (100-102 is the range) Incidentally, this is the second motor on the port side that does the same thing. It makes me think it might be something on the boat. I will eliminate the gas flow tomorrow by putting a 6 gal tank and hooking to filter at motor to see if that eliminates the problem. The vacuum alarm is not going off and temp is well within operating range. BTW, all the work has been done at a local dealer and the mech seems to be pretty sharp. Any other suggestions to try? It is getting time to go fishing and it would be a lot better if both motors pulled their weight. Thanks in advance for any help.
 

BillP

Captain
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Aug 10, 2002
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3,290
Re: At the end of my rope

You say the props are the same size but are they the same model and mfg? If not the same, swap props and see what happens.
 

Hooty

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Oct 2, 2001
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Re: At the end of my rope

BillP beat me to it. I was gonna ask if they were counter-rotating and if not, try swappin' props. If they are c/rotating, are they turning in or out?<br /><br />c/6<br />Hooty
 

RetNav

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758
Re: At the end of my rope

The port prop is a counter rotating set-up. The starboard is standard prop. Both are Ballistic, stainless steel and the same size. Neither of the props that are currently on the motors are bent or dinged in any way. I do have a new set of ss props PowerTech UN200 PT C3R 19 Polish and UN200 PT C3L 19 Polish, but I haven't put them on as nothing seems to be wrong with the Ballistics currently on the motors.
 

OBJ

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 27, 2002
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Re: At the end of my rope

Have you pulled the port prop and had the pitch and cup checked to be sure they are what their supposed to be? Thats' a gang of rpms difference. Didn't catch the other posts...but did ya' maybe swap signal wires on the tachs and verify the rpms?
 

ob

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Aug 16, 2002
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Re: At the end of my rope

RetNav,When you say that the port engine seems to be struggling to get up to beat with the startboard,does it sputter or miss at all,or as Hooty raises a good point ,are you relying solely on the tach reading.Simpler put,can you hear and feel a difference in the two? Have you ruled out possible tach problem?<br /><br />Assuming ignition components have been professsionally checked and ruled out as well as restricted carbs,you may be on the right track by running the engine in question on a poratble fuel tank.<br /><br />What do the sparkplugs look like on that engine after a failed up to speed run.Wetter than the other engines? Drier? about the same?<br /><br />Have you tried pumping the primer ball or bumping the primer button intermittedly on this engine when it won't get up and see if you can get it to react?
 

BillP

Captain
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Aug 10, 2002
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3,290
Re: At the end of my rope

If the props are identical make and model that's good advice to check the pitches. One may have been "worked" by a prop shop and not had the changes stamped.
 

RetNav

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Messages
758
Re: At the end of my rope

I just got back from the gulf fishing and have some more info. <br />Wot on the port motor is 4500 rpms and it doesn't get there quickly. In other words, the engine is coughing and if I give it throttle to quickly it will die. Once it reaches 4000 to 4500 it will run steady until I slow down and try to bring it back up to speed. <br />I hooked up the 6 gallon tank and it didn't make any difference. Pumping the bulb makes no difference. Hitting the prime switch causes the rpm to drop.<br />I put the new props mentioned earlier before going out and they made no difference.<br />Running along with both engines at 3000 opening the starboard throttle all the way gives a jump in rpms of 12-1500 almost instantly. Opening the port throttle all the way gives about 300 rpms instantly then slowly comes up to 4500.<br /><br />HELP
 

R.Johnson

Rear Admiral
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Sep 24, 2003
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4,446
Re: At the end of my rope

What type fuel connection do you have from the tank to the engines?
 

neumanns

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Mar 1, 2003
Messages
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Re: At the end of my rope

I am not familular with your motors but if you have ECU (electronic Control Unit) would it be possable to swap them out to eliminate (or pinpoint)them as the source of your trouble. The can controll almost every aspect pertaining to how a modern engine runs.<br /><br />If you bought the second motor used it is entirly possable that they swapped them if the other was knowan to be bad. Same with the carbs.
 

R.Johnson

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Re: At the end of my rope

Here's another thought! are those engines set up, and tracking straight? I don't get into your type of set-up here in Iowa, but it seem's that if that one engine is crabbing through the water, it could cause a real drag.
 

clanton

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Jul 9, 2001
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4,876
Re: At the end of my rope

I think these engines have Quick Start, which means it is inportant to check the timing trigger by the service bulletin and set the timing by the book. If you use the old method of setting timing on cold engine, without bypassing Quick Start the timing will be retarded 6 degrees, and it will only turn about 4000 rpms. I would check timing at full throttle as close to 5000 rpms as you can get, engine loaded . The easy way to check ignition is connect peak reading meter to primary coil wire, then full throttle, as boat starts to come up on plane, if anything wrong with ignition system, you can watch the meter dip. Check all 6 cylinders. Temps will change the ohms readings on the trigger, I would test trigger with engine cold, then warm trigger with hair dryer and test again. If the 6 gal tank has Evinrude quick connect/disconnect it will not flow enough fuel for for a V6
 

RetNav

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Re: At the end of my rope

Guys I really appreciate the feedback and suggestions. The fuel lines from the tanks thru water seperators to motors are by way of 3/8" id gas line.<br /> Motors have a slight toe in/out as recommended in one of the manuals, only about 1/2" difference and track good.<br /> clanton, these motors have the quick start. Upon firing them up you can definitely hear the starboard motor drop in rpms after warm-up. The port never changes. If the quick start wasn't working what effect would that have on the running of the motor?
 

clanton

Rear Admiral
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Jul 9, 2001
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Re: At the end of my rope

If the pack is stuck in Quick start, the timing is off. I not sure which direction, a timing light would verify correct max advance timng and what the Quick Start was doing. The pack is suppose to come out of this mode at about 1200 rpms.
 

RetNav

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758
Re: At the end of my rope

clanton,<br /> I appreciate the responce. I will get it checked and post the results. Thanks.
 

ob

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Re: At the end of my rope

Consider that the quickstart feature gets its cold engine start signal from the temp sensor.
 

RetNav

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Aug 14, 2003
Messages
758
Re: At the end of my rope

Thanks ob,<br />I will check the temp sensors to ensure they are ok
 

RetNav

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Aug 14, 2003
Messages
758
Re: At the end of my rope

Just a follow-up to let everyone know what has been going on with this motor.<br /><br />There was a wire coming from the power pack that was pinched and shorted affecting the quick start. <br /><br />The timing wasn't following the throttle advance. In other words when you would try to go to wot the timing would stay at 6 degrees ATDC and the engine would die. Putting a timing light on and slowly advancing the throttle with the other engine turning wot disclosed that the timing would advance part way on the effected engine. The timer base was corroded and causing the problems. WD-40 is wonderful stuff. Will be removing the parts today, cleaning all surrounding areas and reinstalling/resetting timing.<br /><br />It helps to have two identical engines side by side to check how something is supposed to work. Check the good one then if the bad one looks different make it look like the good one, problem solved.<br /><br />Thanks to all for their suggestions.
 

RetNav

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Aug 14, 2003
Messages
758
Re: At the end of my rope

Here is the latest.<br /><br />After getting the wire fixed, the timing base cleaned, the WOT timing (as wide open as it will go) set to 18* It has some more power and will actually help some. It actually turns 5000 rpms and there is no hesitation. It is slower in getting there than the starboard engine, which is already turning 6000 while the port is coming up to 5000. <br /><br />Had it in the shop this week and the following was discovered: All plugs have consistent light brown color, compression is 95 psi on all cylinders + - less than 1 lb difference, throttle plates opening all the way, Main jets are 62D, timing right on the mark, no problems with fuel flow, no water in tanks, flywheel key not sheared. Wrench is setting it up to take to a lake nearby to test it in the water next week.<br /><br />Does anyone have any other suggestions?
 

Dhadley

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Feb 4, 2001
Messages
16,978
Re: At the end of my rope

Just for kicks, switch flywheels from one motor to the other.
 
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