Evinrude Lark IV 35530 (L or 1) Questions.

[CATransplant]

Re: Evinrude Lark IV 35530 (L or 1) Questions.

Actually, I'm just 59...almost 60. I had that bike in 1963 when I was first going to college. Ran it in some trials and enduro races...with little success. I'm just not enough of a risk-taker. <br /><br />I traded it for a two-year-old Yamaha YDS-3 250cc buzzer. It would outrun the old Velocette. However...The Velo would now be worth about $5000. The Yamaha? None still survive, as far as I've been able to tell. They're all dead. I wish I'd kept the Velo.<br /><br />Waiting to hear how your next test comes out.

 

[jimeee]

Re: Evinrude Lark IV 35530 (L or 1) Questions.

No it didn't run, not even one burp out of it!!!<br /><br />I am about to give up on starting this motor... After putting the carb back on we couldn't even get a burp out of it. The carb is one of the simplest carbs I have ever had apart. I am thinking to myself when we are trying to start it while it won't even make one sound of starting I wonder what in the world I could have done to screw up in assembling this carb. I had the kids take the carb off again and come over in my shop while I tore it apart again which took all of about 5 minutes. I showed them the few simple parts of it and they concurred that they didn't think I had done anything wrong in putting the carb back together.<br /><br />The float in the float bowl even floats...haha...<br /><br />Hey I am about to pull my hair out. Anybody got any more ideas for me???<br /><br />Thanks for any help anybody can give...<br /><br />Jim<br />===

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: Evinrude Lark IV 35530 (L or 1) Questions.

Quick test. Pull off the fuel pump 'Pressure' line that runs between one of the block's bypass covers and the fuel pump. Crank the engine and it should blow fuel/oil mix. Set that cylinder's piston to top, and get one of the kids to blow into and then suck on that line. (Do not inhale. )<br />Should give you an idea if the crankcase is sealing correctly. You should be able to draw air through the reeds but not blow it back out. With the piston in the down position, you'll just blow through the exhaust ports.<br /><br />Is fuel getting into the carb? When you cleaned it out, did you hit the main oriface behind the plug in the bottom of the carb bowl? Or is this an adjustable mix carb? (bottom should be screwed in till lightly seated, then out 3/4 of a turn, top should be out 1 and 1/2 turns.)<br /><br />EDIT: Now I'm really grasping at straws, but here goes: Are you certain the two little idle orifaces above the throttle plate are clear, and the passage leading up to them? Since you're reusing the bowl gasket, is where the idle circuit comes up through the bowl to the main casting blocked by a swollen gasket?<br />(The carb kit comes with a new metal plug so you can directly clean the idle orifaces.)

 

[jimeee]

Re: Evinrude Lark IV 35530 (L or 1) Questions.

Paul, CAT, JB and anybody else who might be interested:<br /><br />I just got back from the library and they had an old book that had 10 pages for 1956-1964 30, 35 & 40 HP. So now I have some pictures to look at even though I can't read...haha... The first thing I see is there that is different is the High Speed mixture adjustment. I never could find what I thought was a high speed needle and jet. Well this carb doesn't have any high speed needle and jet, adjustable or otherwise. In the hole in the bottom of the bowl where it looks like there should be an adjustable needle there is nothing.(EDIT: There is a jet down in that hole that one can get to by taking the screw out that is in the front of the bowl toward the bottom but no needle is in there). By that I mean there is a screw screwed in the hole where the needle, whether it is adjustable or not, is supposed to go. So that in itself is not good...haha... <br /><br />This book says 1964 40HP models have a fixed jet. But the carb on this 1962 40 HP motor just plain does not have any kind of a needle in that hole... No wonder my arm is worn out from pulling that rope...haha...J/K... <br /><br />We have a starter and I told the kids to go easy on the use of that thing too because if it is like most of the small starters they can't stand too much extended use at a time with out cooling off for a while. It isn't fried but I am sure it has been warmed up pretty good...haha...<br /><br />This carb has an automatic choke that works from the hot water from the engine.<br /><br />Paul: I can't answer all of your questions right now as the kid has gone to work and I probably won't see him until tomorrow afternoon. <br /><br />I will check out the stuff you are talking about in the first paragraph tomorrow.<br /><br />Second paragraph: <br />1. Fuel is getting into the carb.<br />2. I took the plug out from the outside of the bowl where I think the hi speed needle and jet should go and cleaned that all out. Down in the hole I see the jet that could be screwed out with the proper size screwdriver but I didn't take that out. There is no needle of any kind screwed into that jet.<br />3. I took the main nozzle, that screws into the bottom of the carb body from the center area of the fuel bowl, out and cleaned it.<br />4. When you are talking about bottom at 3/4 turn I take you mean the hi speed needle which is missing on this unit?<br />5 When you are talking about the top I take you are talking about the low speed needle being set at 1 and 1/2 turns?<br /><br />Paragraph 3<br />1. There are 5 smaller orfices and three bigger orfices above the throttle plate and I think they are all clean.<br />2. Regarding reusing the bowl gasket the hole for the idle circuit is clear by plenty<br /><br />As I have said before the inside of this carb is clean clean like it must have been rebuilt when the engine was rebuit shortly before it was retired for more than ten years...<br /><br />To bad they don't make it easy to post pictures here as then I would post pictures of the carb and maybe more. (EDIT: I did post some of the carb)<br /><br />I hope I have addressed all of your thoughts and questions Paul...<br /><br />And thanks again to you Paul, CAT & JB and any others who want to chime in with the challenge of getting this fine engine started...<br /><br />Jim<br />===

 

[jimeee]

Re: Evinrude Lark IV 35530 (L or 1) Questions.

By the way what you see in the carb pictures is all we have. Meaning all of the parts are on it that were on it when we started this project.<br /><br />Thanks again for help and comments fellas.<br /><br />Jim<br />===

 

[jimeee]

Re: Evinrude Lark IV 35530 (L or 1) Questions.

Am I correct in assuming that there should be a needle sticking out where that hex headed slotted screw is that sticks out from the lower part of the fuel bowl???<br /><br />Jim<br />===

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: Evinrude Lark IV 35530 (L or 1) Questions.

No. That's got a fixed, replaceable oriface under the 'plug'/screw. Since it's a '62, it ought to be adjustable (ie, have a needle). But it doesn't. Have a look at the '68 40hp carbs (higher model numbers have the water choke) here:<br /> http://www.evinrude.com/en-US/Accessories/Engine.Diagrams.htm <br /><br />Sorry, I missed your post. Let me go over it.

 

[CATransplant]

Re: Evinrude Lark IV 35530 (L or 1) Questions.

Looks like someone may have bolted on a later carb on this '62. Pretty common thing.<br /><br />But...what I'm wondering here is whether the choke is working at all on this carb. If it's not set up properly, it'll not close, and that, alone, could be keeping this engine from starting up. I know I could crank all day on mine when it's cold and it wouldn't start without the choke. With the choke closed, it fires on the first or second revolution of the flywheel.<br /><br />You might want to try choking this thing manually. How? Use the palm of your hand to cover that screen...keeping it clear of moving things, of course. <br /><br />Interesting.<br /><br />How is the choke hooked up on the engine?

 

[jimeee]

Re: Evinrude Lark IV 35530 (L or 1) Questions.

CAT: The choke works good. It has a brass looking lever on the right hand side that has three positions. 1. One is open. 2. The second is called auto that closes the choke butterfly but lets it open from the suction through the carb working against the spring of the choke bimetalic element and if the suction is enough it will open all the way. 3. The third is full choke which is hard closed and can only open just a tiny bit against a spring to some less than a 1/4 wide open. Below is a picture where you can see the brass looking choke operating lever on the right side

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[CATransplant]

Re: Evinrude Lark IV 35530 (L or 1) Questions.

OK, I see that now. I'm pretty sure someone has bolted a later carb on your engine, then. Not a problem, as long as it's OK.

 

[jimeee]

Re: Evinrude Lark IV 35530 (L or 1) Questions.

One other thing when the carb is off and one looks in where the reed valves are that is always dry in there. It looks brand new in there though. I touched some of the reed valves and the ones I touched are not stuck. This is even though when trying to start the engine and having it on full choke and when one stops cranking gas will come out of the carb barrel in the front where the screen is.<br />What I am saying is it doesn't look to me like gas is even getting to the reed valves even though the carb has plenty of gas in it...<br /><br />It would seem like there is not any suction from the crankcase that would suck the gas into the reed valve area... I will get my compression gauge and check the compression but I know this thing has plenty of compression as one can hardly turn it over. I am thinking about squirting some oil into the cylinders and turning it over without the sparkplugs in it. In fact maybe I will squirt some gas/oil mixture directly into the reed valve area while turning it over with the starter while the plugs are out and while the carb is off...

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: Evinrude Lark IV 35530 (L or 1) Questions.

Plugged exhaust comes to mind, but since it ran for a few seconds with fuel directly in the cylinders, I don't think that could be it. <br />There's not much that would cause both crank case chambers to leak so bad as to not start or run at all. That fuel pump pressure line check should reveal if something's severely amiss. Is it possible there's two broken reeds? (These reeds are seldom if ever a problem).

 

[jimeee]

Re: Evinrude Lark IV 35530 (L or 1) Questions.

Well the kid works till 3 or 4 in the morning so maybe he will be getting up pretty soon...haha... When he get up we will the stuff you talked about in the first paragraph a few posts back.<br /><br />I will go to my Supra shop and get my compression gauge and check the compression first. Then I will squirt some oil in the cylinders and turn it over for a bit then I will squirt some gas/oil mix in the reed valve area while turning it over without the sparkplugs in...<br /><br />I will let you all know how goes the battle in this continuing saga...haha... And any more ideas anybody comes up I welcome...<br /><br />EDIT: Thanks Paul for pointing me to the Evinrude parts catalog. I looked at the 40 horse the second down on the list and it looks exactly like the carb we have<br /><br />Jim<br />===

 

[CATransplant]

Re: Evinrude Lark IV 35530 (L or 1) Questions.

Hmmm....it occurs to me that it is just barely possible that the two plug wires have been switched at some point. Not easy to make that mistake on this engine, unless the wires have been replaced at some point with longer ones.<br /><br />Then, all bets are off. I dislike having folks switch plug wires, since there's always a chance of a shocking backfire, but....perhaps...<br />.

 

[jimeee]

Re: Evinrude Lark IV 35530 (L or 1) Questions.

CAT: One never knows what someone might have done to this things since it has been sitting around for years. The carb looks spotless inside though as do the reed valves and all of that stuff...<br /><br />I don't think that the plug wires would have been switched since the day before yesterday we got it to fire and run just barely for a couple of seconds on the gas we squirted in the cylinders... No backfiring at all... But yesterday after me taking the carb apart we couldn't get it to fire under any cirumstances...haha...<br /><br />I have looked at the carb diagrams, now that we have those, and it is all back together as should be with all of the parts. I mean the carb is dirt simple so if I screwed that up somebody better fire me...haha...<br /><br />In all of the times we have taken the plugs out we have never had a gas wet plug so I am still thinking that the cylinders are getting no fuel for some reason or rather. And since I know nothing about 2 cycle outboard motors I don't have a clue as to why...haha...<br /><br />The kid is up but has to go downtown for a little while. So it will be a while before we look at doing the compression test. Besides that I if we don't hurry up and make this thing run he is going to be working on it himself as I have plenty of things to do including putting a front mount intercooler on my turbo Supra that I just got in today...haha...

 

[CATransplant]

Re: Evinrude Lark IV 35530 (L or 1) Questions.

You're probably right, then. <br /><br />One other thing to try, and this is a long shot, really. You have to be careful doing this a little.<br /><br />With a spray bottle of premix, spray a little premixed fuel directly into the spark plug holes. Just one spray...not a lot. Screw the plugs in immediately and crank the thing.<br /><br />Sometimes it's just that first time getting it to fire up that will start the cycle working. I know...it sounds strange, but there it is.

 

[lark2004]

Re: Evinrude Lark IV 35530 (L or 1) Questions.

I know this may sound silly but...... <br /><br />are the reeds working properly?<br /><br />If they're broken or something is holding them open, you won't get crankcase presure to push the fuel/air mix up into the cylinder.<br /><br />crankcase seals are also something to look at, but they probably wouldn't stop the engine from starting. just wouldn't run nice.

 

[jimeee]

Re: Evinrude Lark IV 35530 (L or 1) Questions.

Paul regarding your paragraph 1: "Quick test. Pull off the fuel pump 'Pressure' line that runs between one of the block's bypass covers and the fuel pump. Crank the engine and it should blow fuel/oil mix. Set that cylinder's piston to top, and get one of the kids to blow into and then suck on that line. (Do not inhale. [Wink] )<br />Should give you an idea if the crankcase is sealing correctly. You should be able to draw air through the reeds but not blow it back out. With the piston in the down position, you'll just blow through the exhaust ports."<br /><br />I am not sure I understand exactly what you want so I have a couple things to say and some questions. The fuel pump has three rubber hoses going to it. 1. One comes from the fuel supply tank. 2. On goes from the fuel pump to the carburator which pumps gas if we take it off from the carb when we are turning it over. 3. The other line goes to the other side of the cylinder wall, more towards the crankcase than the head end, to the bottom cylinder. Isn't that just the vacuum source to operate the fuel pump. I guess I don't know what the "blocks bypass covers" are. Help???...haha... Oh yeah I need lots of help.<br /><br />The kid put the carb back on and we tried to start it with no luck at all even after spraying a little gas/oil mix into the cylinders... This is beginning to feel like a crap shoot coming out with a crap every time...haha... <br /><br />Lark2004 I don't have any idea if the reeds are working properly. I wanted to take the plate off that covers that area while we had the carb off but the kids were in a hurry getting ready for the 4th weekend and all.<br /><br />I don't imagine much progress will be made over the weekend but I am always interested in anybodies ideas.<br /><br />Hope everyone has a nice 4th. I will be around here off and on.<br /><br />Jim<br />===

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: Evinrude Lark IV 35530 (L or 1) Questions.

Ah, the idea is to take the line off the pump (it's marked 'pressure' on the pump). That gives you access to one of the crankcase chambers, so you can test the reeds with your breath. I've had good luck with that for tracking down bent reeds or blown seals. Mostly just good luck though. <br />The main thing is you need that cylinder's piston at the bottom, otherwise you're just blowing/sucking in through the exhaust. The piston seals the chamber.<br /><br />Your saying that you get fuel collecting in the throat of the carb, but that it's dry beyond the carb really suggests bent/broken reeds. It's a possibility. If you blow though the pressure pulse line for the fuel pump, and it seems your blowing right through the carb, that's the only conclusion one can draw.<br /><br />4th, what's on the 4th? Course, tomorrow's the 1st. With any luck I'll be on Lake Petpeswick all day.

 

[jimmbo]

Re: Evinrude Lark IV 35530 (L or 1) Questions.

If that isn't the original carb, it has to be a 1963 version. My dad had 1963 40 Johnson and the carb looke Identical to the one in the pic. In 1964 OMC stopped using the hot water choke and switched to a hot air system.