Thanks, I will try that too if the clamp doesn't help...Did you use a heat gun or a torch? So you flipped the housing on its back and lowered the driveshaft in from above? Thanks!
Yeah I hope not, but I set up this clamp and rubber pieces to check...My calipers dont go down far enough into the housing to measure more that a little past the threads...I am going to move this setup an inch at a time through all the positions clockwise, give it 2-3 turns on the clamp and see...
Thanks, I have a couple of extra washers so maybe I will loosen up the nut and retorque with a hose clamp…the only thing is the leading edge of the front race is what’s getting caught in the housing…so I don’t think I’m even to the point of having a misalignment issue but I will retorque and try...
I just replaced the 2 seals in my upper housing, and also the seal on my driveshaft yoke, and now I am ready to reinstall the driveshaft into the upper housing...And it doesn't want to fit back in. I used a ring compressor sleeve to line everything back up on the driveshaft, and torqued the new...
Thanks all for the advice so far! I have run into an issue I cant quite figure out...After replacing the oil seal on the upper driveshaft bearing assy, I cleaned all the components and reassembled the driveshaft assy as shown in the diagram and per my shop manual, and the leading bearing race...
Thanks, it is sometimes had to tell with Mercury's drawings what belongs to the lower shift shaft vs the intermediate...When I split the drive, my lower only had 48 and 49 on top of the lower shaft bushing (#47)...I have since seen most videos replace those 2 above the bushing. So I am not sure...
One additional question for the group- I have replaced the seals in the upper and am putting it all back together- anyone know the correct stackup for the intermediate shift shaft in the upper housing? it had a rubber bushing above the hole, and a SS washer and the cotter pin below when I took...
Yes, I found that since I have the pin on the top of the lower unit driveshaft, this sets the gear stack preload, and the upper driveshaft gear assy is just simply torqued to 80-ft-lbs with a new nut and washer...
Ok thanks! I have a click-type and a needle-type (beam) torque wrench, but not a true rolling wrench...Those are pricey, maybe my local auto parts store has a loaner...
Yes I can see the wires between the TP sender and where it goes thru the hull are corroded and bare wire is exposed. I did spray the 1/4" bolts 2 days in a row now with PB blaster, hopefully that helps. 100% freshwater boat so other than some zebra mussels hiding out in there its pretty clean...
Thanks all for the feedback! Since the boat is going up for sale after I do the repairs, I am planning on replacing the gimbal bearing and the water pump while I am doing the above list.
But...One problem I found right away when I removed the outdrive, was that the driveshaft bellows was...
