I'm not finding anything local with under 150k. There's some across the country I requested quotes on , under 100k miles, only a few that don't want more than reman
Also been searching a bunch of rebuilders for a reman. Alot of them had poor reviews, but a company called "powertrain products"...
I was thinking about going that route, to upgrade to that I would just need to change the manifolds? I would just need to know what all I would need to purchase to make the vortec work, because the boat may not be worth putting all that money into
Yeah, oh well I thought my boating days were over because I thought this was going to be out of my capability. And a marina wouldn't cost too much for the value of the boat to have a new engine put in. But thanks to you guys I'm confident that I can get this back on the water maybe even this...
Okay thx ! When I get it off I'll send you a picture, if it's catastrophic I guess it won't matter where the rods go I'll be putting a new engine in it lol
Okay, And these are all the head bolts, I think I counted nine of them?
Also when you say loosen the rockers , I don't remove the bolt completely just loosen them? And when am I marking the push rod, what exactly do you mean by that? Also I was watching one guy take a head off, and it sounded...
Thanks. I don't have the manifolds off yet but I plan on having one of them off in the next hour. I'm cooling down now it's pretty hot the boat's in the middle of the Sun ☀️ . But once I get the starboard side manifold off taking the head off is where I'm entering new territory never done that...
Oh and when I crank it with the key and look at the engine with the covers off, I can see all of the valves moving they're not stuck. But it just doesn't move when I crank it by hand. Also the only reason I've been kind of optimistic about it not being internal damage is I find it hard to...
I mean I really don't want to replace the engine by any means, I'd rather not lol But yes I tried to turn it by hand on that 16 mm bolt on the harmonic balancer, it doesn't budge not even a little bit. And from my understanding I shouldn't have to turn it hard enough to the point where it will...
Okay thanks for corroborating, that was the only thing I was unsure of is if that voltage drop could be because the starter is drawing so much power against a seizing engine. I've been slowly getting it apart just kind of taking tips as I go lol
I do get a voltage drop when the starter cranks at the solenoid and at the starter. But I can't turn the engine by hand anyway that's why I'm leaning towards internal damage. And those cables were just fine the day before all this happened
Welp. Disregard those, I don't really know anything about an engine I guess that's just the position the Pistons were in when I shut the engine off. Took the other side off and same thing so I turned the engine over a little bit and I see they move. All of the valves are moving properly on both...