I may put what the manual says and monitor oil pressure to ensure I’m not getting oil aeration. It’s been running fine for years with my current approach.
You need the bevel from a counter sink bit to be deep enough so the OD of the screw threads initially contacts fiberglass and not the gel coat above it.
That’s the same dipstick part number for my 302, though I don’t have the dimples. I believe my oil tube goes to the port side of the oil pan.
For oil I use Rotella T4 15w-40.
I've been going through the exact same thing on my '95 302. I don't recall the dimples/indents you're referencing. Will check that. You'll be able to confirm you have the right dip stick since the part number is on it. I've just been putting in a quart less that listed, and it's been running...
A pressure switch is very different than a pressure sensor/sender. A pressure sender has a strain gauge, piezo sensor, or some other means of measuring strain on a diaphragm to convert into an electrical resistance. A switch just opens or closes a set of contacts.
I wouldn’t want the paint to flake off and get into my cooling system, like on fuel pumps. ;)
My boat’s an OMC, so I’m good on natural brass, (bronze?).
