Update
I’ve spent too much of the summer diagnosing and attempting to solve the leak and overheat problems. I’ve serviced the heat exchanger and replaced all the seal and gaskets. But it leaks antifreeze where the plastic strainer housing meets the metal top of the heat e exchanger. This is with...
It took two of us to free the cover off the body of the H/E and nothing broke! Previous owner must have taken this thing apart and used some kind of sealant on the gasket that did not budge until I applied some heat. Now I’ll get the insert cleaned out, clean up the mating surfaces and new...
I got the white plastic bushing off but that top part is still not coming off. It seems like the top cover part is attached to the insert and all of it should come out in one movement? This is crazy.
I had the putty knife in the crevice all around but it’s not moving and yes I’m afraid to snap a piece of it. It’s over 40 yrs old!
I’m gonna try to see if the top will rotate around the white plastic and metal pipe.
I’ve tried screwdrivers, putty knife, even a pry bar for taking moldings off. These pictures show how much that cover moves then nothing. I wonder if the white bushing is holding it up? I don’t want to mangle that though.
Those bolts were easy to get the whole unit off the boat and the bolts holding the top plate to the unit weren’t bad either. Not sure how much persuasion should be used to get the cover off.
Thx. Any tips on getting the top plate off the heat exchanger so I can get at the wafer type of strainer inside? Right now I’m soaking the top plate joints in PB BLASTER to loosen it from the body of the H/E. The entire H/E is on the workbench. I’m talking about the metal top plate the plastic...
Ok will do. It’s what I was thinking too. Now I just have to find the time this week to get it done.
That white gasket on the cover to the raw water pump- is there any trick to keeping it in place before you tighten down the four fasteners? I get it set then it moves on me no matter what I do.
In order to service the raw water side of the cooling system do I need to drain the antifreeze too? I’m planning to disassemble the raw water tank, raw water strainer housing from the closed side of the cooling system in order to service the filter in the raw water tank. The left side is raw...
I ordered the required gasket and piping kits to do the work on the heat exchanger. A good water flow out of the outdrive now on the muffs. Steady temps at 180-190 too. Once I get the leaks fixed I will test it at the lake and let you know. Thanks
The system overheated very briefly from the silt sucked into the raw water system. In this system the antifreeze circulates through the engine block in a closed setup. That antifreeze solution is cooled by raw water pumped in from the lake and by means of a heat exchanger it acts like a car...
I saw that cooling pipe gasket set thx. But the leak is from the base of the plastic strainer housing not the cooling pipe. The other one is from the metal top plate of the raw water reservoir. I don’t know how to post pics and circle the spots of the leaks.
End of last season I got into a shallow muddy situation and sucked up river mud. I knew it was trouble immediately. As soon as we got into open water and got above 2000 rpm on plane the temps jumped up but came back down to normal when I idled. We idled back to the dock. But I had antifreeze out...
