Recent content by MNhunter1

  1. MNhunter1

    Starcraft on C-list/ebay!

    https://www.facebook.com/share/1CovTEcsbj/?mibextid=wwXIfr 18ft Nova I/O in WI for a cheap.
  2. MNhunter1

    New Journey

  3. MNhunter1

    New Journey

  4. MNhunter1

    New Journey

    Starcraft on the water! Went to a local electric only lake over the weekend to test out the trolling motor and electronics. Towed well, launched well, everything worked, and no water in the bilge after multiple hours on the water over a two day period. Most importantly though...the kids got on...
  5. MNhunter1

    New Journey

    When I replaced the bow supports and cover plate I beefed up the supports with a solid piece of ply. It still has a little bow to it, so I needed to add some shims to level the TM a bit, as well as allow clearance for inserting/removing the arm for the TM quick release bracket. The spacers were...
  6. MNhunter1

    New Journey

    Yeah, the prop will go on before she hits the water. Under the helm is just the access for the livewell drain and plumbing. I have it packed with foam board as added floatation, but otherwise just a cover. I have dual group 29's under the front casting deck, so not much room for another fuel...
  7. MNhunter1

    New Journey

  8. MNhunter1

    1972 Starcraft Nova

    My Nova was a 15ft, so I was able to cut them from an 8ft sheet. If you can't fit them diagonal to get them out of an 8ft sheet, I'd just piece them together with a backer being mindful of the inside shelf. I'd use 4x8 1/2" ACX from Menards ($42.09 here at present) and seal it with a few coats...
  9. MNhunter1

    '77 Holiday Transom

    I typically use the US Composites 635 thin with the 3:1 ratio medium hardener. I paint the exposed side after the epoxy cures.
  10. MNhunter1

    '77 Holiday Transom

    Yes, and encapsulate with a 2 part epoxy. I generally use 3/4" ACX plywood from the big box stores.
  11. MNhunter1

    1972 Starcraft Jupiter New Project

  12. MNhunter1

    1972 Starcraft Jupiter New Project

    The side panels are screwed to the floor, riveted to the inside tray (about halfway up the panel/likely behind that trim?), riveted to the rear vertical support, and screwed to the top trim piece. That top trim piece is riveted on the underside to the gunnel. The lower trim piece that screws to...
  13. MNhunter1

    1973 StarCraft SS 16 Restore

    Each rib. You can see where the original holes were from the factory. I always go through and remove and replace all the rivets regardless. They get loose over time and the new rivets tighten everything back up again.
  14. MNhunter1

    1973 StarCraft SS 16 Restore

    That's a first for me, and rather strange. Not even sure what they were trying to accomplish, but it does look intentional. The good news is, you have the factory bracing. Not sure if those cuts will be of any concern or not. Based on how the ribs are secured/riveted all across the bottom of the...
  15. MNhunter1

    1973 StarCraft SS 16 Restore

    My first step on a gut job is usually always to remove the motor, but I guess it's just personal preference. If you have the stand, I'd just go ahead and pull it. Don't really think it's going to impact anything much if the boat is just sitting there. I'd be more concerned if I were planning on...
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