Update: When I got home with the battery I did a load test with my old school analog tester. It tested WEAK! So I checked the water with the turkey baster type gauge and it also tested WEAK! Investigating further, I peeled off the sticker that read " 1/25 " and found a sticker that read "6/23"...
I ended up buying a 1000 MCA Marine Dual Purpose battery. I hope to be able to get on the water this weekend. I'll post how it goes. Thank You for all your input. I really appreciate it. This forum has helped me quite a bit in the last few years!
My cranking/house/electronics battery was a dual purpose deep cycle 600 CCA/750 MCA that I bought less than two years ago. The problem was that, by the end of the day on the water, the battery would struggle to start the motor. I figured it was because of too many starts followed by short runs...
Yeah, it only charges at 10 amps. So, if I'm only doing short trips from spot to spot fishing, by the end of the day I'm crossing my fingers each time I go to start the motor. I'm wondering if it will make much difference if I had a regular cranking battery. Would it recharge faster of the...
according to my onboard voltmeter I am at anywhere from 13V to 15V when I'm on the lake. Not sure how many amps my it's charging at. My motor has a rectifier. Don't think there's a regulator
You'd think so. I think the PT&T motor drains the battery more than the starter. It's the style that doesn't have relays. It's kinda slow and draws a lot of power I should probably look into that, but it's a can of worms I'd rather not open right now!
Do you know what the smallest size cranking battery that my motor requires?I don't think that the 10amp generator on my motor charges the deep cycle battery enough. At least, not on the lakes that I fish on. They're not very big. I have to run WOT for quite a while to charge it.
Hi, I have a 1978 Johnson 115 on my 82 Ranger 130V. I currently have two Group 27 deep cycle marine batteries powering my trolling motor. And I have one Group 27 Deep cycle marine for my starting/house/electronics. Is this a good configuration? Lithiums are not in the budget right now. Also my...
Crosbyman: is the regulator rectifier shown above different than the stock rectifier? It looks the same.
Saltchuckmatt: I have a spare prop that I will put on. It's the same 3 blade 19P, but at least I'll be able to rule out/ confirm slippage. I'm going to the lake tomorrow. Thanks for the help
The sticker on the battery is 6/22. I checked the water with one of those "turkey baster" style tester last year and all were good. What do yo mean by "slippage"?
I believe mine is 9 or 10 amps(power trim n tilt).
I don't run my motor at WOT because I stull have throttle left at 5600rpm. How could the prop be causing the high voltage? I believe I am running a stock 19P 3 blade aluminum prop. Any suggestions? And I use a flooded cell starting battery. Thanks
Took the (bass) boat out yesterday and motor was running good. The voltmeter was reading between 13-14.9V for most of the day. I never opened her up to WOT and cruised at about 4500-5000 rpm. Then on my way in the voltmeter was reading a steady 16.7V and even went all the way to 17V for about 30...
Power tilt/ trim and the pin is in set of holes that is closest to the transom. Her is what my hull looks like. So, trimming up while at WOT will bring the nose up, correct? How will I know when trimmed up too much? I tried trimming up, but it seemed like it was "jarring" the motor and throwing...
