Recent content by saltchuckmatt

Just caught up on my manual, first wire closes to ground at 96 degrees to shut down quickstart.

Here's how I think it goes and others can confirm. Quickstart starts closing at 105 degrees or so...so I suspect that maybe remains open...the tan wire closes when it overheats so that's definitely grounded. Those two wire sensors are hard to find and expensive...best to go to a one wire from...

Is this for a dash key switch? and not a control box?

I would go this route.

Old cork floats for me have not been nice ...mis-behaving mostly. Particles float off and plug the carb. Do they not make an upgrade float for yours? Kind of a no brainer.

New in a can will not fix your carb problem. Best to just do it the normal way.

2 different problems. No shortcuts unfortunately. Fuel pumps both have the same reliability...your vro probably just needs a new diaphragm and a oring or two.

I would pull that pin and clean/lube it. Salt water motor. Torquing the tube nut solved my noise on my E-tec. Noise was slightly different. Heat and wax is your friend.

Appears to be binding, has it been greased properly? Tilt tube nut, check it's torque value.

All answers above are correct, but in case you don't know, voltage increase is slow. Alligator clip your probes on, fast idle and go look at it in 5 minutes, should slowly increase if working correctly....otherwise pull the flywheel and see Dr Ohms

Fiberglass but it shouldn't matter.

That's one of the tiller gears. Probably need both sides and need to clean everything. Happens when the get old and gunked.

To bad...awesome motors.

I would think under the handle but that piece does not go there. To me it's where the handle meets the frame of the outboard.

Tim might be on to something, hard to say it's not an optical illusion. Is this a longer shaft motor on a shorter transom? Another words, why the jack plate? But if it's to high your RPM's would go up. To me it looks like this is NOT your problem.