correct and yes it would restart and then die after a min or two if oil pressure switch was dead. Could be anyone of several things that he needs to trouble shoot vs using the parts cannon.
I had my oil pressure alarm switch working intermittently when I got my boat. It was a handymans...
I could see the oil pump switch working intermittently for sure, could also see bad contacts. you would need to see if the pump is getting power when it dies and trace it back with a VM.
you need to check the fuel pressure when cranking to see what it is. Wonder if the outboard fuel tank vent was closed and pushing fuel to filter when you were changing it.
If fuel pressure is ok you need to see if it is flooding out (too much gas), no gas, or no spark when cranking.
Why did...
so salt water is sitting in it for 4-6 weeks per year? then I would expect them to last 5 yrs or so, but as others have mentioned inspect them. At 5 years now I would inspect and be ready to replace.
The 5 year rule of thumb could also be influnced by the local salinity of the water
I’m thinking it’s a mercarb based off the two hole gasket and oval holed gasket he mentions, which usually both come in the kit.
When I did my mercarb a few years back on my 3.0, it came with both oval and two holed gaskets. Oddly enough the factory mercarb gasket was two holed, even though...
I don’t think it’s a waste system as I think there are 4 coils in The pack . I think I have some documentation on it somewhere I’ll see if I can post it
edit I stand corrected, you are right there are two coils see attched pm me if you want The Who manual
If you flush the water side the raw water goes through the heat exchanger and dumps overboard through the manifolds and risers.
do you have a thru hull pick up or does it come through the drive? Is it a slip kept boat or trailer or hoist? If trailer or hoist can flush running on muffs, slip...
Don’t over think it all that is in that part of the drive is the exhaust cavity and water pump. Good to hear the tool works ok I had thought about buying One years back.
DDIS I thought was distributor less with a coil pack individual coils for each cylinder, there was a sawed off distributor base that drove the oil pump and was the trigger for the spark , essential a crank position sensor, an amplifier module and the coil pack were on back of stbd side of engine...
oil makes sense given the age of the engine. But usually water will steam clean the plug. Easy to take them out and spin it after it sits.
On the initial stumble might use a spark gap tester on all four plug wires to see if you are loosing spark. Might just be a carb por choke setting that...
take the plugs out after it sits and spin the engine if water is leaking in after shut down you will see it come out the plug hole, or have you already confirmed that ?
Spark plug will be clean on a cylinder getting water in it as well.
If I recall you are in fresh water so rot is unlikely ...
That is a metric bolt Given the 9.8 marking On. 4.3 the 090M casting used m10 bolts for the starter, flywheel cover, and side motor mount holes. Based on the short length I would be thinking the side motor mount holes.
amazingly the rest of the bolt holes on the metric blocks are SAE …
My replacement long block came with the sensor but my engine being carbed does not use it. you may have to buy the sensor and install it to plug the hole
