RESOLVED.
that was a lotta squeal caused by carb bolts not properly torqued.
I remember now a couple days ago when reinstalling and redressing the engine.. lots of components, lots of bolts and nuts. I said to myself … don’t forget to come back and torque these down, but I don’t always listen...
Picked up a stethoscope. squeal strongest at front base of carburator and electric choke. Disconnected choke, no change. Sounds like it’s either inside the carb or under it. Puzzled.
no indication of it coming from seal or front or drive shaft. Not valve covers or any belt components...
Here's a couple videos - first demonstrates the squeal with change in throttle. Second shows a unique sound during shut down. Hope one of you experts can point me in the right direction from that sound, alone.
thanks,
This is the first run after replacing front and rear seals, water pump and alternator, on my 4.3.
I tested the belt tensions and tried the water spray test, then isolated the pulleys - no issues.
Finally, I removed the belt and started it just to verify and the squeal continues.
Sounds like...
RESOLVED! Started right up multiple times w/no blown fuses.
I'm guessing it was the ground connection to the flywheel cover which I cleaned up after the initial fuse issues.
Thanks all!
After 2+ days of exhausting my multimeter, I have discovered... that I'm an idiot.
First - I've been chasing the purple ohm demon, which I have discovered doesn't exist. I read many places that there should be NO CONTINUITY to GROUND on the PURPLE circuit. The resistance that I was reading...
It disappeared, then I reinstalled the dash and it came back. Wiggled the console harnesses and it fluttered. It’s in there somewhere but is elusive. will continue chasing tomorrow.
this Is my cannon
Update on tests:
- Retested ignition switch with key wiggle. No change. continuity between connections only during key on and start. Tested with and without wires attached.
- verified purple on alternator connected to EXC
- sanded and reattached all starter wires, verifying no grounding of...
I used lacquer thinner to remove old adhesive. then sanded bonding surfaces, then acetone to remove residue.
My point about allowing it to cure before stressing, by experience, stands :)
Thanks for the diagrams and help!
I just verified the starter wiring and it looks correct. I will disconnect the purple from the starter just to make sure it wasn't touching the red/orange wires. I will also verify the alternator connection- maybe I swapped the purple and red wires, but I was...
I tested and there is no continuity between the leads in the switch side of the oil pressure switch, so I’m confused at how plugging it in would blow the fuse. Also, I blew the fuse again when measuring the voltage at the oil pressure gauge (between the purple and ground) with a multimeter...
I didn’t use bellows adhesive for the ring side (bell housing side of I joint. I used it on both sides of exhaust bellows, front of I joint bellows and on shift cable bellows.
the ring is easy to install with the tool. Maybe I missed it, but the manual doesn’t specify it.
Just make sure the...
Lacquer thinner makes easy work of dried bellows adhesive. well worth the cost and trip to store. Acetone didn’t work for me
recommend allowing bellows adhesive to cure for 48 hours before stressing the bellows. I was able to slide exhaust bellows off one side when attaching the other, even...
Interesting. Ignition switch continuity passed for both accessory and ignition position. Switch is good.
i pulled the red/yellow ignition wire from the starter solenoid and tested 12v power to switch. Failed. Checked fuse and it was blown. Replaced fuse, now working as expected
checked...
