Upon further digging, I found another article on this subject and it seems the Faztbullet and saltchuckmatt comments are on track with their comments a wet cell battery is necessary and the charging voltage requirements to charge the AGM battery do not match the CDI Electronics...
I agree the motor would not be providing the AGM specified 14.1 to 14.8 volts for charging at lower RPM's. This would lead to an under-charging condition for the battery. Why would this void the warranty of the CDI Electronics rectifier/regulator?
Just to clarify, currently I am running a standard lead acid battery with caps I can pull to check and confirm fluid level. It's important to note that I do not have a problem with my engines charging system or battery. The system is functioning just fine.
The question I have and originally...
I looked into this a bit further, and it seems the AGM batteries require a specific regulated voltage range 14.1 to 14.8 to properly charge them. The recommended CDI Electronics rectifier/regulator seems to output an acceptable 14.5 volts reading their technical info in my OEM service manual...
Can I utilize a sealed 12-volt NorthStar AGM battery with the CDI Electronics system I have in my 1986 Johnson 150 HP outboard (J150TXCDC)? I believe this engine has a 9 AMP charging system.
I vaguely recall seeing a post somewhere that this is not recommended by CDI Electronics. Is this true...
Thanks for the comments. When I get to the boat this weekend, I'll try and test for voltage at the solenoid when the switch is first turned. I'll also check for loose connections.
No, the starter does not spin on the first try.
The battery is strong, and on the second turn of the ignition switch the starter motor bendix spins up with authority starting the engine immediately. The starter also engages on first try the rest of the day.
Recently, when initially cold starting my Johnson (J150TXCDC), The starter doesn’t engage/"turn over" when the key is first turned. On second try the starter engages immediately and starts the engine. The starter engages immediately on all subsequent starts for the day. I replaced the starter...
I have been collecting spark plug information from the experts on this forum (e.g. racerone, faztbullet, joe reeves) in an attempt to understand whether I should be running the Champion QL77JC4 plugs in my 1986 Johnson 150 crossflow V6 (J150TXCDC). My OEM service manual only mentions Champion...
Possibly, I am not testing the new switch properly? To clarify, the boat is in the driveway. I pulled the lanyard's switch plunger depressing feature, and then tried the starter. Giving the key a brief turn to engage/bump the starter, to my surprise the starter motor engaged. Are you saying this...
I realized my engine was not stopping when the safety lanyard is removed from the Kill Switch. Points of interest:
The Kill Switch was working last summer
Upon identifying the problem, I thought for sure the Kill Switch failed, given this is a 1986 Johnson 150, and I replaced the Kill Switch...
Thanks, but I tried it in both positions and it wouldn't take the fogging fluid. My original Schrader valve worked fine (until it cracked), and I tried multiple OMC injection hoses on the can. Possibly, the valve stem needs adjusted outward to actuate the valve stem? I didn't have time to...
Is there a BRP part number for a replacement Schrader service valve lever? The valve in the Sierra Service Valve Kit p/n 18-7044 will not accept fogging fluid in the running or manual position.
The electric primer works fine for engine starting, but will not accept fogging fluid. Is the problem...
Try the www.everythingoutboards.com site. You can search on required OEM tools by year and horsepower. Once you have the part number and you are convinced you need the tool, a google or eBay search will give you used and new purchase options.
It is important to note that many of the tools can...
