2005 Mercruiser MPI 5.0L misfiring(?) when in gear, idles fine

alldodge said:

Spark gap tester to see if your missing spark. If spark is there than we look for fuel. Place on coil feed and if good there, move to a few plugs

Click to expand...

ok, thanks. I'll do that. Just to confirm a few things (and some new information):

1. By spark gap tester, do you mean an inline spark testing light, or one of those testers that actually has a gap for the spark to jump? I have both so happy to test both. If you mean the one with the actual gap, what should the gap be set at for this test?

2. Another question. I noticed that I have a main breaker on top of my engine. It's a 50A breaker and sticks out like this:



Is this normal? It doesn't seem like it's tripped... I can push it in like 1/16 of an inch and it bottoms out, I can't get it to push in any further. And when I look up this breaker online (west marine, etc.) they are all sticking out like that. It'd be weird for them to all has photos of it tripped, which makes me think that this is just what it looks like. But would a tripped breaker let the engine turn over strong but just stop the sparks from firing?

3. I sprayed some starter fluid into the spark arrestor... I assumed this would essentially function like the air filter on a car and would get starter fluid into the air intake. If this is correct, it did NOT fire with starter fluid, and I put a fair amount in there. I thought i heard it pop and definitely got some white smoke out of the spark arrestor and it smelled like burned starter fluid, but it didn't ever actually catch (and may not even have popped, that might have been my imagination)

Thanks. Really frustrated... it has been running with that misfire for weeks and then over the course of like 5 minutes of runtime started running worse and worse until now it just can't start. Really annoying to watch :/ looking forward to fixing this and appreciate all the help!

The breaker looks fine, so long as there is 12V on both sides then it's connected

The gap tester is the inline one which has an adjustable gap, set to about 3/8 inch

Starting fluid should have fired if there was any spark, so you have gone from it had spark to it has no spark

Yes spark arrestor is like a air filter. You can remove the spark arrestor and spar straight in but don't use much. Using to much can break things

ok, I am going down tomorrow to check all of this. My understanding is that: My engine was running, but kind of slowly lost the ability to run over about 10-15 minutes of running time. I tried starter fluid in the spark arrestor which points to something other than fuel, which leaves: spark, compression, timing.

Weirdly, I feel like fuel is the most likely to die out over 10 minutes, but I'm planning to check spark, compression, and timing. I will have a couple of hours to work on it so I'm going to ask my questions now (in advance) so I have kind of a game plan for working on the boat!

It sounds like the consensus is that spark is the most likely culprit. I'll check spark first. If there is no spark, this means that the spark got progressively weaker and weaker as the engine ran... assuming there's no spark, what is the most likely culprit that would cause a weaker and weaker spark over like 10 minutes, and how do I test this component (whatever it is)? My first thought is the coil, but I'm not super familiar with marine coils... or maybe it's just not a likely cause of my symptoms. I would appreciate any thoughts on what it could be and how to test it.

The second most likely, I guess, would be compression... this one is scary to me because the only thing I can think of that would cause worse and worse compression is like valves slowly burning up one by one or something :/ so hopefully it's not this, but if I do have good spark but low compression... what should I check for next, like how would I test my system to narrow down the cause?

Sorry for asking these in advance but like I said I have a few hours to work on it tomorrow and I would hate to get down there and check my spark or whatever and realize I have no spark within the first 60 seconds but then not have any idea what to check next so I just sit on my hands for hours!

Thanks so much

Without a scanner we're feeling around in the dark.

If spark was there then starting fluid should have ignited. Your spraying the spark arrestor but just take it off and look through it to see if it's clean

Did you ever do the stuff listed in post 15?

Just to be certain, when you sprayed starting fluid you just sprayed it into the air cleaner? I would remove the air cleaner and open the throttle body and spray it directly into the intake and try it again just to be sure it isn’t a fuel issue.

Ok, so new information.

I went down today with a spark tester. I tested a few plugs and was getting no spark. I tested the wire coming from the coil to the distributor and I was getting nice healthy spark coming off the coil. So, the issue must be somewhere between the coil and the distributor.

So just to recap: This motor used to run. I had the distributor cap replaced maybe 15-20 minutes of runtime ago. Since then, I have moved the boat around the marina (about 10 minutes of runtime) and it ran okay, I think. Since then, it's almost like it's gotten worse and worse. Misfire started when it went into gear, not sure if that has always been there or not. Then it started running rough, doing the cycling between normal idle and then idling so low that it was almost dying before surging back up, and then finally just died. No start with starter fluid (and @salty3rd based on your comment I went right into the intake this time). I don't seem to have spark at most of the plugs, but I seem to have good spark off the coil.

The only other weird thing is that I tried to start it probably 10 times today, most of them with the spark plug tester connected. One time, while I was using the light (I tested with both the light and the gap-style tester), I was turning it over and there was no light, but it suddenly caught and ran on its own and while it was running, suddenly the tester was lighting up. I shut it off pretty quickly because I didn't know what was going on and didn't want to damage anything, but it was an interesting data point to notice that it *might* be the case that I don't have spark when being turned over by there starter, but there might be some spark when it runs on its own.

I should also note, it's not the case that I have absolutely zero spark. When using the gap-style tester, I would crank for like 5 seconds at a time. During those 5 seconds, I would get maaaaybe one spark to jump the gap (although sometimes it was zero times or two times or something, but it wasn't like a healthy, regular spark).

So given all of this, given that I don't seem to have spark at the plugs but have spark at the coil... and given that I had a new distributor cap installed recently... and I have the crab-style distributor, if that matters... and it seems like things got progressively worse over like 10-20 minutes of run time... what should I be looking at?

I think my next step is to pull the distributor cap off and just take a look in there. I am terrified of distributors and timing and all of this, so I'll take any tips on hoe to do this safely and in a way that won't mess my timing up forever! I also hope it's not the actual distributor, because I just looked and those are upwards of $1,000 for these engines. Wow.

Thanks all


EDIT: If it's helpful. here is the video of the single spark when turning the engine over. If you look carefully you can see the a single spark go off:

Searay, please pardon my jumping in late on this. First off, I really appreciated reading your complete and descriptive postings. Believe it or not but a lot of folks will say: “Motor will not run, please help.” What you understand is that you are the eyes, ears and hands for those trying to help. And while your frustration comes out, I am also sensing anxiety. It is frustrating to have a working boat that you enjoyed and now its not, but let’s leave the anxiety behind and have confidence the good folks here will guide you. So much for my pep talk. Now onto what’s next.

You were hitting the nail on the head with your comment about compression, spark, etc. > the basics needed for a motor to run are compression, fuel and spark. While other things are needed like proper timing, etc., I suggest checking these as follows and in this order:

1. Compression: pull the distributor coil wire (fm coil to distributor) and ground it out. Disconnect the fuel pumps (or pull the fuse) and put the throttle fully open. Pull all plugs and do compression test. Report results. And while the plugs are out, line them up in order and take and post a picture.
2. Grab your distributor around the base of the cap and try to twist it. Does it move? The idea here is to see if the dizzy hold down bolt has loosened up and upset the timing. If you are able to move it, need to reset it as per post no. 15 fm AD and tighten the hold down bolt. If it does not move, pull the cap off anyway and check to see it lines up per post 15. Since the plugs are still out you can get the motor to TDC for No. 1 cylinder. There are several ways to do that, goggle it or search on this site for TDC or ask.
3. Pull off the rotor and check it for any arc'ing lines (both top and bottom), same for cap. In fact since you had spark at the coil but not at the plug even though you have a new cap / rotor get another set per the link in post No. 7. Caps are not ‘marine’ but the dizzy is with screens in the bottom vent holes. Caps do come with different materials for their lugs and best to have copper or brass, and as I understand it avoid aluminum. Also, these dizzys are notorious for stripping out the cap hold down screws due to it being a plastic housing (I assume yours is too). When putting on the rotor make sure its keyed properly (only goes on one way) and use the new screws. When putting on the cap pay attention to how it screws down. If one of the screws feels stripped it probably is. But do not worry, there are fixes other then a new $1k dizzy. Check this link for info on that. And please, do not ignore getting that new cap and rotor. While it may not be needed, best to eliminate the one common element in all of this.
4. Recheck the spark at both the coil and the plugs. Post results.
5. Fuel: since you already checked the pressure, we’ll assume good there but while you are at it best to have your own fuel pressure gauge like this one link. And still possible not getting fuel due to pulgged injectors, etc.

Put it all back together and try it. Assuming still not running correctly next is to check all the voltages per AD’s post No. 15. To do that need a multimeter with some needle type probes. Like this (link). The needle type will allow you to probe up into the connector but may need to hold it. If need guidance on what the TMAP or TPS are, just ask.

For scanning: there used to be a guy on eBay that rented one with the needed connector, but I cannot find it anymore.

I do know your issue is fixable and you can get it done. Just keep being the eyes, ears and hands and post.

ESGWheel said:

Searay, please pardon my jumping in late on this. First off, I really appreciated reading your complete and descriptive postings. Believe it or not but a lot of folks will say: “Motor will not run, please help.” What you understand is that you are the eyes, ears and hands for those trying to help. And while your frustration comes out, I am also sensing anxiety. It is frustrating to have a working boat that you enjoyed and now its not, but let’s leave the anxiety behind and have confidence the good folks here will guide you. So much for my pep talk.

Click to expand...

Thanks for saying this! I appreciate the pep talk and the reassurance that at least one person appreciates all the detail... sometimes I worry that people see a wall of text and find it annoying

Anyways, I have more information. Three new pieces of info:

1) Compression test seems good. All cylinders tested above 150. I would say that 6 of them were 155, one was 150, and one was 160.

2) Here are photos of my plugs. I don't know the "official" cylinder numbering so here's a chart with my own numbering just to show which plug was in which cylinder:



And then the actual plugs:







3) on the topic of plugs, I also noticed something else. On my distributor, on the port side (so, the side leading to plugs 1-4 on my diagram), the plug wires come out in order and go to the plugs in order. For example, the I have this exact distributor, and if you look on the right side of the image (plugs 1-4), the first wire goes to plug 1, the second goes to plug 2, and so on.



But if you look on the right side of the image, wire 5 goes to plug 5 just like I'd expect but then wire 6 doesn't go to plug 6.... it goes to plug 7. And then wire 7 doesn't go to plug 7, it goes to plug 6.

So basically, the wires and plugs on one side are perfectly lined up, but the wires and plugs on the other side aren't. I get that engines have weird firing orders, but it seems odd for one side to be perfectly lined up in order but for the plugs on the other side to cross over?

Here is what it looks like on my cap. Notice how the two middle wires cross over each other? On the other side they both just run in a straight line, they don't cross over each other at all.



Not sure if this is normal (like I said, engines have weird firing orders) but it feels odd that one side is lined up and orderly and the other side isn't.


I still wonder if the issue is in the distributor somewhere. I still have good spark coming off the coil, it just goes into the distributor and then... never comes out.

For what it's worth, I changed the spark plugs since I had them out anyways. I also took the cap off my distributor. It all looks new, which makes sense since I had the cap replaced a short time ago, as well as the little plate thing under the cap.. the rotor?

I checked the cap and rotor to make sure there wasn't a ton of play in them. There was very little play in the cap, and maybe 1/8" or maybe just a bit more of play in the rotor.

So just to confirm at this point, I seem to have good compression, it seems to come regularly when it's coming from the coil, so.... the issue is narrowing down to timing somehow or the distributor, I guess? Maybe it's worthwile to just replace the distributor. I see this exact style of distributor for like $1000 from mercruiser or like a couple hundred for an off brand.... is this the kind of part where the off brand is okay? Or not? If I definitely need mercruiser brand, maybe I'll verify that the distributor is actually the issue before just dropping $1k on it.... ha!

Thanks all, I feel like we're getting close!

SeaRay,
You’re welcome and I tend to be verbose as well, so we share that habit but it just saved you. Also, I sense that anxiety creeping back in There is NO reason to get another distributor. Your wiring to the cap is incorrect. I used your pic and put in blue text the correct plug assignment. If you look at the cap carefully you will see how the Firing Order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. So put the wires on as per the picture and all will be right as rain. I will do a follow on post as well but wanted to give you the good news!

ESGWheel said:

SeaRay,
You’re welcome and I tend to be verbose as well, so we share that habit but it just saved you. Also, I sense that anxiety creeping back in There is NO reason to get another distributor. Your wiring to the cap is incorrect. I used your pic and put in blue text the correct plug assignment. If you look at the cap carefully you will see how the Firing Order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. So put the wires on as per the picture and all will be right as rain. I will do a follow on post as well but wanted to give you the good news!

Click to expand...

Thanks. Just to confirm.... that distributor photo that was in my post followed my (almost certainly incorrect) numbering on the engine diagram that was also in my post. So I think I confused things by using my own numbering and just tossing it out there.

Can I confirm that this is the correct distributor and cylinder matching? Assuming that the "front of vehicle" means "bow of boat"





If so, I don't think my wires matched this. But I don't think my wiring was as far off as it might seem when just looking at my dumb numbering But what I'm really confused about is how my engine was running fine-ish with the wires so mismatched, and then started to run worse and worse. There was a time where the engine was starting up nicely and seemed to be running well, and I have not touched the distributor wires since then. It seems weird that incorrect wiring would run fine, and then get worse and worse over a few days (a total of maybe 20 minutes of running time) and finally stop starting altogether. If my wiring was so bad that it is stopping my motor from running, shouldn't it have been stopping my motor from running for all these days prior? And wouldn't it just kind of... not run, rather than getting progressively worse and worse over time?

Thanks!!

No you are correct. I missed that this was your unique wiring system. Yes, the front of the boat is front of vehicle. This just goes to show you that when I post past my bedtime, i miss stuff. I will think on this more... sorry...

Oh, the great news is the compression numbers! You have a solid engine but I am concerned about the black plugs that indicate its running really rich.
With a sound engine, all else is easy, relatively speaking. So you will get this solved. Perhaps that is a pep talk I need post putting foot in mouth :-(

ESGWheel said:

No you are correct. I missed that this was your unique wiring system. Yes, the front of the boat is front of vehicle. This just goes to show you that when I post past my bedtime, i miss stuff. I will think on this more... sorry...

Click to expand...

Haha yeah, I definitely confused things with my "custom" numbering! My suspicion is that when I go to match up the wires with your diagram, they will be either very close or right on as the boat was running pretty well before. Whatever this issue is, it's something that could progressively get worse and worse over 10-20 minutes. And it seems to be related to spark going into my distributor, but not out of my distributor.

So my question is... at this point, could it be anything other than the distributor? Like sometimes motors have weird things that stop spark from firing, even if the engine turns over. I'm thinking about things like neutral safety switches or kickstand switches on motorcycles or sometimes kill switches or whatever. Or if there could be something happening with the ECM that might tell the distributor not to fire. Basically I'm trying to figure out... if spark is going into the distro.... but not leaving the distro... is there anything that could be stopping spark from leaving the distro, or does this kind of definitively mean that the distributor is the issue?

If so, is there a good supplier of distributors that sells one for less than $1200? I see lots of ebay/amazon distros for like $80 but I'm very suspicious of these. Ideally there is something that is quality but not overpriced Like how @Bt Doctur had a link to a distro cap that was like $25 instead of the $100+ from the merc dealer... I'll happily pay for quality, but if there's something a good for cheaper, I'll also happily save money!

Alternatively, the other option would be to buy one of the $80 distributors, and just pop it in to see if that fixes the issue. And if it does, maybe I bite the bullet and just buy a new OEM distro (and keep the ebay one as an emergency backup). I mean, if I'm going to spend $1200 on this.... is $1280 really that much different??

Other opinions on what could be going on are always appreciated.

Thanks all!

I would remove the distributor cap, have someone crank the engine over while you are looking at it for a second or two and verify the rotor spins. If so, replace the cap and rotor even though it’s fairly new. I had a fairly new cap and rotor fail this past week underway. I keep multiple spare cap and rotors with me at all times as you never know when they will fail.

salty3rd said:

I would remove the distributor cap, have someone crank the engine over while you are looking at it for a second or two and verify the rotor spins. If so, replace the cap and rotor even though it’s fairly new. I had a fairly new cap and rotor fail this past week underway. I keep multiple spare cap and rotors with me at all times as you never know when they will fail.

Click to expand...

Agreed probably the button in top of cap is not making contact with rotor. either that or cap is cracked and leaking spark to ground. so unless the dist is not longer turning would think cap and rotor need looking into

After some good sleep, well not really > I was bothered by not picking up on your unique wiring numbering, so perhaps a little of that anxiety was creeping into me.

First off do not need to replace the dizzy unless it is mechanically compromised. When you try to twist the rotor is ok it twists back and forth just a bit. But still a good idea to watch it turn as Salty suggests (cap off, coil wire grounded, turn engine over). Now the issue of spark at coil wire but not at plugs. This is our only focus because until that is solved nothing else matters.

Not sure you are familiar the NPR talk show Click and Clack, but I am going to pull out one of their techniques and suggest that you are not testing the spark at the plug correctly. Please do not take offence. I think you were using a spark gap tester, a good tool, but if the gap is set too large may not get a spark. So, I am going to ask in the name of science for you to do it the old fashion way > the finger in the socket. Put all back together with plugs out so it does not start and put your little finger in the boot where the spark plug goes. Have a friend turn it over until you feel a small jolt or two. If after several revolutions no jolt, then I am back to the cap and rotor being an issue. And one more item I think I found, possibly two. Here we go.

Given there is good spark from the coil to the cap, without a doubt that spark is going somewhere so I suspect its shorting out somehow in the cap. This was the reason to look for the arcing. It’s possible that the tang on the rotor has been bent (pressed down) so it is not making contract with the center of the cap (see pic red circles). There is a physical connection between these two. That rotor tang is like a spring and presses against that carbon bump of the cap. Its ok to pull up on it so it’s at a slight upward angle. The outside tip of the rotor does NOT make physical contact with the 8 tips in the cap, but it comes real close. Close enough for the spark to jump the gap, just like it jumps the gap of a spark plug.

Again, unless the dizzy is mechanically busted there is no reason to replace it. The components are replaceable, like the sensor. Also need to see if there any moisture or oil film inside the cap. Please take pics of the dizzy with the cap and rotor removed (and of the cap and rotor). It should be dry dry dry.

Also, the dizzy with cap installed should not twist at all. But let’s get to that later.

Next up in the firing order. I did a recon of your numbering system and while it was numbing my brain a little, I believe you have some of the wires crossed. So, take another HARD look and can use the below pic for refence along with google. This could easily explain some of the issues you are seeing.

Good luck and post how it goes!

1. Those plugs look horrible. Wouldn't surprise me if they didn't fire. But you said you replaced them
2. Post 29, you have a pic with a and b labeled. What is that pic?
3. If you have spark at the coil then your problem is distributor itself not turning (unlikely), rotor not turning (unlikely), cap (common) or wires (common, though you said none are firing).
4. Even if your firing order is wrong, you should still be getting spark from the wires.
5. I can't unsee that fire extinguisher and think of a situation where you'd be able to access it if needed

I'd check out the rotor as mentioned, double check to make sure the cap is indexed correctly, ohm out or replace wires. Maybe put a plug wire on the coil and see if you still get spark.

ESGWheel said:

So, I am going to ask in the name of science for you to do it the old fashion way > the finger in the socket. Put all back together with plugs out so it does not start and put your little finger in the boot where the spark plug goes. Have a friend turn it over until you feel a small jolt or two.

Click to expand...

Please don't do that

Thanks all. Some responses for you all here....

salty3rd said:

I would remove the distributor cap, have someone crank the engine over while you are looking at it for a second or two and verify the rotor spins. If so, replace the cap and rotor even though it’s fairly new. I had a fairly new cap and rotor fail this past week underway. I keep multiple spare cap and rotors with me at all times as you never know when they will fail.

Click to expand...

I have verified that the rotor spins... kind of. The first thing I did when I got to the boat today was pull the dizzy cap off and after checking the compression in all cylinders, the rotor was in a different position. So it moves at least a little! I'll verify that it turns smoothly next but it's not like it's totally frozen or anything.

Scott06 said:

Agreed probably the button in top of cap is not making contact with rotor. either that or cap is cracked and leaking spark to ground. so unless the dist is not longer turning would think cap and rotor need looking into

Click to expand...

ok. I'll try bending the little tang up just to get really good contact and verify that the rotor is spinning. How would I know if it's leaking spark to the ground?

ESGWheel said:

When you try to twist the rotor is ok it twists back and forth just a bit.
...
I think you were using a spark gap tester, a good tool, but if the gap is set too large may not get a spark.
...
Again, unless the dizzy is mechanically busted there is no reason to replace it. The components are replaceable, like the sensor. Also need to see if there any moisture or oil film inside the cap. Please take pics of the dizzy with the cap and rotor removed (and of the cap and rotor). It should be dry dry dry.

Click to expand...

When I twist the rotor, it moves just a little. A tiny bit up and down, and a tiny bit side to side. Like probably less than 1/16 of an inch each way.

Re: testing spark, I was using a gap tester, but I also tried a test light that goes inline. The weird thing was that when I was cranking the motor with the starter, I was getting no light on most of the plugs. At one point, the motor just kind of caught on its own and once it was running on its own, the tester was lighting up. Didn't get a good video of it but you can see it here. You have to look pretty carefully but the tester has a red light when there's spark, you can see that there's no light while it's turning over at all but then suddenly it catches (must have been leftover starter fluid or fuel as my fuel line has been unplugged for a few days at that point) and then the test light starts lighting up, but only after it started to run on its own:
But I tested for spark with the light as well, so I'm pretty confident that there is no spark in most plugs (I only tested four of them) and hopefully I'm less likely to screw up a test light

Here are some photos of my cap and rotor:




and rotor:



Please let me know if you see anything!

P.S. love click and clack haha

nola mike said:

1. Those plugs look horrible. Wouldn't surprise me if they didn't fire. But you said you replaced them
2. Post 29, you have a pic with a and b labeled. What is that pic?
3. If you have spark at the coil then your problem is distributor itself not turning (unlikely), rotor not turning (unlikely), cap (common) or wires (common, though you said none are firing).
4. Even if your firing order is wrong, you should still be getting spark from the wires.
5. I can't unsee that fire extinguisher and think of a situation where you'd be able to access it if needed

I'd check out the rotor as mentioned, double check to make sure the cap is indexed correctly, ohm out or replace wires. Maybe put a plug wire on the coil and see if you still get spark.

Click to expand...

Thanks @nola mike. The plugs look bad... I just pulled them yesterday but have not tried to fire it up with new plugs. I just replaced them yesterday while I had the old ones out for photos anyways.

2. That was an accidental upload. I uploaded it with a question and then realized I had tested wrong so deleted the photo. Apparently it didn't get deleted from the attachments! But it can be ignored until I have a chance to test it again.

3. Ok, this makes sense. I'll double check the cap today.

4. Yes, that makes sense. Need to fix the spark issue for sure.

5. Good eye on the fire extinguisher! If it makes you feel any better, I have two other handheld ones, but the one you're seeing in the background of the photo is one of the ones with like a heat sensor and a nozzle in it, so if my engine catches on fire, that whole extinguisher will start spraying automatically out of that little nozzle thing that looks like a fire sprinkler head ( you can hand of see it in the photo, it's behind that rusty-looking red cage towards the port side of the extinguisher). It's not designed to be the ONLY extinguisher, but if a fire breaks out, it will coat the back of the engine automatically while I can use one of my other extinguishers to get the front (hopefully. I guess there's a chance I just panic and dive overboard, but in a better world, I'd be bravely fighting the fire from the other side)




Will check a few things out and report back. Thanks again everyone

I am not positive on your engine, but the coil may get power in two different ways:

• One while the starter is engaged (key in the start position)
• Two when the engine is running (key in the run position)

Need to find a wiring diagram for your engine, please search around on the forum at the Don S MUST HAVE technical info in the electrical section. Also just search this forum and perhaps someone will post it. Troubleshoot it to ensure you have coil voltage in both these key positions. Report on this or ask questions as needed.

Also, the pic of the dizzy shows you have a broken lug > this is why the cap was moving slightly. This needs to be fixed as it could allow the cap to move and get destroyed with a spinning rotor. So, the dizzy IS mechanically impaired. Two choices: get a new one or get this repair plate (link). I suggest the repair plate as you should be able to apply it without pulling the dizzy. The long screws that come with it are a bit of a pain as the plate is not pre tapped for them. Two choices here as well: use the provided screws but screw them into the plate first to create the needed threads. Have to be sure to keep screw straight up as it will be easy for it to flip to the side and then you jab your hand with the screwdriver. A better choice IMO is to use an 8 x 32 socket head cap screw, same length as the packaged ones. And then get a tap and tap the plate for these. Here is what I mean link and link. With either process, this plate is a little bit of a pain to install as you need to hold it on the bottom of the dizzy while you are applying the screws > if you let it go before its held in with screws you will be fishing it out of your bilge, so get a magnetic pick up device while you are at it link. Tell us your course of action.

Otherwise, no oil or wetness so that is good, and you can see the little mark in the middle of the rotor tang showing it is making contract, also good. Regardless install another set. And check that firing order in the process!

Now once verified coil voltage at both key positions and with a new cap / rotor and proper firing order (heck should replace the wires while at it as well) give it a try and post.