Trailer bearing blowout. Need help with repair(s)

C

cyclops222

Commander
Joined
Mar 21, 2024
Messages
2,733
When I bought the small trailer in 1981. I checked the bearings. Fine So I simply forced grease theu all the race rollers. Then filled the housing to the seal. Fille the cup also Checked them 20 years ago, Still full of grease no water yet.
Trailer is over sized for the boat. 65 mph on a 6 hour trip each year.
Amazing how not over loading a trailer extends useful life of everything.
Oh well.
 
J

jlh3rd

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 10, 2017
Messages
755
too many different subjects in this thread for me to list my opinions and stories. Suffice it to say maintenance is top priority. I haven't suffered a major failure, but I don't trailer long distances.
I like and do rely on my Karavan trailer's sure lube system. Wheels are spun once a year for looseness, noise, etc.
But have a question.
I also remove the hubs and spray down the drum brakes' internal parts and backing plate with liquid wrench (or similar). Of course, not the braking surfaces or the magnet (electric brakes). It is operated in brackish water now.
Seems to be working. thoughts?
 
Lou C

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
13,341
Liquid wrench is a solvent not really a rust proofing agent. I think there’s a company that makes galvanized electric drum brakes which would be ideal for some. I use galvanized drums on my trailer and due to the fact that my boat is moored during the season they last a long time. Only get dunked in salt water about 4 times per season. If you want to make them more rust resistant I might remove the shoes & spray the backing plates and springs/hardware with fluid film or similar coating. Or, you could paint the backing plates with a good rust inhibiting paint. But in my opinion any boat trailer brakes (if drums) should be fully galvanized with stainless steel springs. If you look they also make zinc coated drums, I have used these and they hold up well in salt water, better than non-stainless disc brakes do in fact.
 
Last edited:
T

tphoyt

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jun 10, 2010
Messages
1,650
I like CRC rust inhibitor. Fluid Film is pretty good as well. As with most things each has there place.
 
J

jlh3rd

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 10, 2017
Messages
755
Lou C said:
Liquid wrench is a solvent not really a rust proofing agent. I think there’s a company that makes galvanized electric drum brakes which would be ideal for some. I use galvanized drums on my trailer and due to the fact that my boat is moored during the season they last a long time. Only get dunked in salt water about 4 times per season. If you want to make them more rust resistant I might remove the shoes & spray the backing plates and springs/hardware with fluid film or similar coating. Or, you could paint the backing plates with a good rust inhibiting paint. But in my opinion any boat trailer brakes (if drums) should be fully galvanized with stainless steel springs. If you look they also make zinc coated drums, I have used these and they hold up well in salt water, better than non-stainless disc brakes do in fact.
Click to expand...
tphoyt said:
I like CRC rust inhibitor. Fluid Film is pretty good as well. As with most things each has there place.
Click to expand...
thanks.....my brakes are 7" so I don't think there's individual parts for that....or specialized 7" brake assemblies.
CRC, will look at that.....
 
jimmbo

jimmbo

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 24, 2004
Messages
13,943
Galvanized Drums? Well they will look Prettier, but where the Braking Surfaces, will have the Plating removed, and therefore will still Corrode from Salt Water. Inspections would need to be More Diligent, as a shiny Outside, may lead some to think that the Braking Surfaces are Corrosion Free
 
FLATHEAD

FLATHEAD

Captain
Joined
Dec 29, 2002
Messages
3,597
jlh3rd said:
I like and do rely on my Karavan trailer's sure lube system. Wheels are spun once a year for looseness, noise, etc.
Click to expand...
I don’t like that sure lube system on my caravan trailer. It states to pump in new grease till old grease comes out the front around the bearing. I’ve blown out two seals doing as they say. Just using a hand pump grease gun. Last time I replaced the seals I just packed everything by hand and haven’t had an issue since. Just repack once a year.
I’m not impressed with my caravan for other reasons as well.
 
Last edited:
JimS123

JimS123

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Jul 27, 2007
Messages
8,316
FLATHEAD said:
I don’t like that sure lube system on my caravan trailer. It states to pump in new grease till old grease comes out the front around the bearing. I’ve blown out two seals doing as they say. Just using a hand pump grease gun. Last time I replaced the seals I just packed everything by hand and haven’t had an issue since. Just repack once a year.
I’m not impressed with my caravan for other reasons as well.
Click to expand...
I have 2 Karavans. Both were private labeled Whaler and SeaRay and came with the boats. I think those sure lubes are the cat's meow.

So far combined I have lubed them 15 times combined. No blow out. The instructions say to rotate the wheel during the lube process. Maybe that was the key.

One thing I did was call Karavan with the VIN and ask what grease they used. In both cases I bought the same brand and product.
 
C

cyclops222

Commander
Joined
Mar 21, 2024
Messages
2,733
The excess grease should just oozzee out of the backing plate. Unless there was never any grease oozzeed out by the first installation. A dry seal would instantly melt away in first few miles.
 
J

jlh3rd

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 10, 2017
Messages
755
FLATHEAD said:
I don’t like that sure lube system on my caravan trailer. It states to pump in new grease till old grease comes out the front around the bearing. I’ve blown out two seals doing as they say. Just using a hand pump grease gun. Last time I replaced the seals I just packed everything by hand and haven’t had an issue since. Just repack once a year.
I’m not impressed with my caravan for other reasons as well.
Click to expand...
then something isn't right.
I see movement in the grease the minute I start pumping.
I had that happen one time only on one wheel due to the seal bearing surface being bad. A spindle repair kit fixed that. Previous owner's maintenance was lacking, took me a few years to fix things.
Anyway, not endorsing Karavan over any others. But, my trailer is going on 25 years, is galvanized, and showing no signs of any issues. And it holds a 24' pontoon.
Plus, there was a bad spindle on one axle (previous owner again) and Karavan made a new axle from original blueprints , $90.
no complaints from me.
 
FLATHEAD

FLATHEAD

Captain
Joined
Dec 29, 2002
Messages
3,597
jlh3rd said:
then something isn't right.
I see movement in the grease the minute I start pumping.
I had that happen one time only on one wheel due to the seal bearing surface being bad. A spindle repair kit fixed that. Previous owner's maintenance was lacking, took me a few years to fix things.
Anyway, not endorsing Karavan over any others. But, my trailer is going on 25 years, is galvanized, and showing no signs of any issues. And it holds a 24' pontoon.
Plus, there was a bad spindle on one axle (previous owner again) and Karavan made a new axle from original blueprints , $90.
no complaints from me.
Click to expand...
Yes the sure lube hubs is what’s wrong 🤪 Spindles are fine, bearings and races fine/ new. Seal surface fine. Have not got one drop of water since sticking with packing bearings once a year.
 
dingbat

dingbat

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 20, 2001
Messages
16,619
JimS123 said:
The instructions say to rotate the wheel during the lube process. Maybe that was the key.
Click to expand...
Have had Sure Lubes on my last two trailers.
Never had any issue with them.
Liked the convenience of annual grease changes.

You will blow a seal unless rotating the wheels as per instructions.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top