No spark 55 HP Evinrude triumph 1969

R

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
39,455
Did you line up the key on the rotor with notch in the crank?-----It sounds like you need another rotor.------Sent a couple of these motors to scrap a week ago.
 
sad boater

sad boater

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Mar 23, 2026
Messages
36
racerone said:
Did you line up the key on the rotor with notch in the crank?-----It sounds like you need another rotor.------Sent a couple of these motors to scrap a week ago.
Click to expand...
Yes I made sure it was lined up when I reassembled it. I was thinking the same thing but I'll find out in a little while when I pull it apart again. That's a shame but I can understand why lol. It fired right up after the amplifier was installed, do you think that being an aged part it could have spun off the notch? Not sure if it's original or not. It looked good so I reused it. It and the points are all that I didn't replace. Everything from the battery to the plugs.
 
C

Crosbyman

Admiral
Joined
Nov 5, 2006
Messages
6,053
fwiw from an intelligent source... things to reverify ....


If it fired briefly right after the new amplifier was installed, then died and now won’t restart, the most likely causes are:

Most likely causes​

1. Loose / bad electrical connection (very common)​

After changing the amplifier:

  • a wire may be loose
  • bad ground
  • corroded connector disturbed
Check:

  • battery terminals (clean/tight)
  • engine ground strap
  • amplifier mounting screws / ground
  • coil wires
  • kill switch wire
A weak battery or poor cable can let it cough once, then fail because ignition needs adequate cranking voltage / speed.

2. Kill / stop circuit grounding ignition​

Sometimes:

  • key switch
  • kill lanyard
  • chafed wire
can short ignition to ground.

Quick test:

  • disconnect the black/yellow stop wire (or kill wire) from the amplifier / ignition module
  • crank again
If spark returns:

  • kill circuit is the problem.

3. No spark at plugs​

Before chasing fuel:

Do a spark test

  • remove both plugs
  • reconnect plug wires
  • ground plug bodies to block
  • crank
Look for:

  • strong blue snap
Weak / none:

  • amplifier wiring
  • bad coil
  • rotor / cap issue
  • points / trigger problem
These systems need decent cranking speed to produce spark. Remove plugs during testing so the starter spins faster.

4. Rotor not seated / cap issue​

Since you were in ignition:

  • rotor may not be fully pushed on
  • cap may be cracked / damp / carbon tracked
  • center carbon button missing
Engine can fire once, then stop if spark leaks.

5. Fuel issue (less likely if it fired right after repair)​

Check:

  • primer bulb firm?
  • fuel reaching carb?
  • choke working?
If it fires on a tiny shot of premix into carb throat:

  • fuel delivery problem.

Best next step (in order)​

  1. Charge battery fully
  2. Check all grounds and amplifier connections
  3. Test spark on both cylinders
  4. Temporarily isolate kill wire
  5. Inspect cap / rotor again
 
sad boater

sad boater

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Mar 23, 2026
Messages
36
racerone said:
Did you line up the key on the rotor w
Crosbyman said:
fwiw from an intelligent source... things to reverify ....


If it fired briefly right after the new amplifier was installed, then died and now won’t restart, the most likely causes are:

Most likely causes​

1. Loose / bad electrical connection (very common)​

After changing the amplifier:

  • a wire may be loose
  • bad ground
  • corroded connector disturbed
Check:

  • battery terminals (clean/tight)
  • engine ground strap
  • amplifier mounting screws / ground
  • coil wires
  • kill switch wire
A weak battery or poor cable can let it cough once, then fail because ignition needs adequate cranking voltage / speed.

2. Kill / stop circuit grounding ignition​

Sometimes:

  • key switch
  • kill lanyard
  • chafed wire
can short ignition to ground.

Quick test:

  • disconnect the black/yellow stop wire (or kill wire) from the amplifier / ignition module
  • crank again
If spark returns:

  • kill circuit is the problem.

3. No spark at plugs​

Before chasing fuel:

Do a spark test

  • remove both plugs
  • reconnect plug wires
  • ground plug bodies to block
  • crank
Look for:

  • strong blue snap
Weak / none:

  • amplifier wiring
  • bad coil
  • rotor / cap issue
  • points / trigger problem
These systems need decent cranking speed to produce spark. Remove plugs during testing so the starter spins faster.

4. Rotor not seated / cap issue​

Since you were in ignition:

  • rotor may not be fully pushed on
  • cap may be cracked / damp / carbon tracked
  • center carbon button missing
Engine can fire once, then stop if spark leaks.

5. Fuel issue (less likely if it fired right after repair)​

Check:

  • primer bulb firm?
  • fuel reaching carb?
  • choke working?
If it fires on a tiny shot of premix into carb throat:

  • fuel delivery problem.

Best next step (in order)​

  1. Charge battery fully
  2. Check all grounds and amplifier connections
  3. Test spark on both cylinders
  4. Temporarily isolate kill wire
  5. Inspect cap / rotor again
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
sad boater

sad boater

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Mar 23, 2026
Messages
36
I don't have a kill switch by the ignition with the cord The only safety switch kills my start ability not my ignition I have verified all the wires all the connections are tight My grounds are good so half of that information was useless and the other half I insured on installation cuz a bad connection is what caused this whole issue to begin with so I have verified my connections multiple times
 
sad boater

sad boater

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Mar 23, 2026
Messages
36
Crosbyman said:
fwiw from an intelligent source... things to reverify ....


If it fired briefly right after the new amplifier was installed, then died and now won’t restart, the most likely causes are:

Most likely causes​

1. Loose / bad electrical connection (very common)​

After changing the amplifier:

  • a wire may be loose
  • bad ground
  • corroded connector disturbed
Check:

  • battery terminals (clean/tight)
  • engine ground strap
  • amplifier mounting screws / ground
  • coil wires
  • kill switch wire
A weak battery or poor cable can let it cough once, then fail because ignition needs adequate cranking voltage / speed.

2. Kill / stop circuit grounding ignition​

Sometimes:

  • key switch
  • kill lanyard
  • chafed wire
can short ignition to ground.

Quick test:

  • disconnect the black/yellow stop wire (or kill wire) from the amplifier / ignition module
  • crank again
If spark returns:

  • kill circuit is the problem.

3. No spark at plugs​

Before chasing fuel:

Do a spark test

  • remove both plugs
  • reconnect plug wires
  • ground plug bodies to block
  • crank
Look for:

  • strong blue snap
Weak / none:

  • amplifier wiring
  • bad coil
  • rotor / cap issue
  • points / trigger problem
These systems need decent cranking speed to produce spark. Remove plugs during testing so the starter spins faster.

4. Rotor not seated / cap issue​

Since you were in ignition:

  • rotor may not be fully pushed on
  • cap may be cracked / damp / carbon tracked
  • center carbon button missing
Engine can fire once, then stop if spark leaks.

5. Fuel issue (less likely if it fired right after repair)​

Check:

  • primer bulb firm?
  • fuel reaching carb?
  • choke working?
If it fires on a tiny shot of premix into carb throat:

  • fuel delivery problem.

Best next step (in order)​

  1. Charge battery fully
  2. Check all grounds and amplifier connections
  3. Test spark on both cylinders
  4. Temporarily isolate kill wire
  5. Inspect cap / rotor again
Click to expand...
Using a timing light during cranking I only have signal at cylinder 1
 
sad boater

sad boater

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Mar 23, 2026
Messages
36
68glasspar said:
After dark have someone crank the engine over while you look under the flywheel and see if the spark is shorting thru the plug wire boots.
Click to expand...
I did that last night I did not see spark escaping from anywhere. What I have found is a slight wiggle on my rotor when fully seated, this can throw off the ignition timing, when I inspected the copper ring in the distributor I have noticed arc marks prior to the brass area that it should be hitting. This tell me it is not firing the spark at the right time. The #1 had spark but it is much weaker than the spark from the coil wire to the distributor. I am currently debating on replacing the distributor, rotor and wave spring to insure all parts are new. That only leaves the key switch itself or the harness but I have verified all needed signals to produce spark
 
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